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Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 289 total)
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  • #22224
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Neil is spot on, I registered a club name so that we have an indoor and outdoor display area at Newbury, most of us have known each other long enough that we can call ourselves a club without the full formalities. We can discuss at the show . Hope we get loads of machines.

    #22156
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Having owned an MG6 for about ten years some 35 years ago, I started my collection of machines when I retired 9 years ago. I have a number of machines that were purchased new by the previous owner in some cases I have the original receipt .

    #22146
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Have a ratch through your bins Neil and bring along some oddball parts they are always interesting.

    #22101
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Hi Dave
    I agree with Neil your MG2 is certainly fitted with running gear appropriate to the age of the diff 1947. If this is the case the serial number will be between 2319 and 2675.

    #21889
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Quite an extensive range of equipment was available built either by Ransomes or others to suit the MG tractors.
    Front mounted 4ft bulldozer. Trailed ploughs, tyned cultivators, ridgers , potato harvesters,sprayers, front mounted steerage hoe, trailed grass cutters, winches, front loader, rear loader/scoop.disc harrows , chain harrows, compressor,hedge cutter, back acter, rollers, trailers, spring tyne harrows, rotovators and a number of specialist machines such as dumpers, loaders, skid steer wheeled tractors and the sand skimmers.

    #21671
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    I would try slackening the tension right off on the left hand track and see if that makes any difference. If the tracks have been rebuilt with new rubbers etc it may be that you have what was the right hand track on the left hand side which may be running tight on worn drive wheels. If you take it for a long drive around a field it may settle in ,if not try swapping the tracks. another thought is that you may have the track reversed from original which would mean the left track is driving on a less worn side of the track driving teeth try removing the left track and rotate it. Clearly something on the left side is running tight causing the diff. to power the left track. If you do end up removing both tracks when you have the machine securely jacked and propped, try starting the engine and engaging gear and check that both drive wheels rotate together, this will eliminate a fault in the hub/final drive bearings.

    #21543
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Hi
    Rated as 2 horses in that they can carry out the work of two horses in a day. The official engine hp is rated as 6. I think Neil Jarrett will have dipsticks for sale.

    #21396
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Thanks Neil I wonder who own’s it ? and if they would bring it to Newbury in October ?

    #21225
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Yes it is, there may also be some other bits to clear Atco ride on etc lying in a garden near Cromer the chap that owns them was a collector and has not been well. He needs to sell the cottage and would like the roller removed. Give me a call on 016974 78292.

    #20810
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Joe the hub seal can be recovered by using a skim of plastic metal to fill the most severe wear, when you refit a new seal do not drive it fully home so that the lip of the seal is running on an unworn surface.

    #20650
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Joe.
    The sprocket wheel is just a very neat fit on the hub. I use plenty of release oil/diesel/paraffin to soak in and then using a soft hammer thump the outer rim and then again at 180 degrees to rock the wheel on the hub. Some heat may also help. The rollers can be freed by tapping with a hammer ( as per manual ) Use a release fluid but not oil and do not oil when you have them free they are meant to run dry. The other way of removing wheel if you are removing hubs is to take off hub and wheel as an item and thump the whole assembly down on a big log or timber.

    #20645
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Joe I would say that is an original box, the plaques have been moved from the rear of the tub.

    #20634
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Hi Joe following on from Neil I would advise that you replace all track rubbers plates and bolts. Each pair of bolts and rubbers should be tightened to give a specific spacing between the faces of the adjoining pads, this affects the engagement of the drive sprockets in the track. If you mix old and new, when you tension the tracks the pitch will vary between old rubbers and new rubbers which will cause excessive wear and at worst cause the track to ride up on the sprocket teeth.
    I have two original MG2 tool boxes both of which are made from 4 ply with metal corners. The floor boards are pine. As Neil says the level of restoration is your call complicated by the fact that someone has painted it before. I have one MG2 that is totally original with all the patina of its age I give it an annual rub over with WD 40 and oil and have won prizes with it for originality, my second was a complete box of rusty bits restoration which I took back to as new condition due to the fact that it is the oldest known MG2 existing. Most of my other Mg’s are mechanically restored with the tubs and paintwork as I found them in the original factory paint. I have had a couple that have been painted up by previous owners, most of which I have moved on when I found a more original one.I have recently spoken to a chap that owned number 116 bought from new in 1936 but all he has left is the i.d plate which fell off when the cowling cracked through due to vibration.

    #20520
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    As there is effectively no mixture control on the MG2 carb I have found that the only way to get a slow enough tick over to avoid gear crunch is to play around with ignition timing by both adjusting points gap and magneto. The valve clearance also effects slow running so again have a play with the clearances. I also find that unless you run any MG crawler for about 5 minutes from starting to get it all hot then slow running and crunching are worse. Changing the clutch springs may help but shoes may make it worse.Getting it all hot and good oil in the air filter would be first on the list.

    #20413
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    From discussion with Martin Mansley at Malvern, they also manufactured a unit with two rotovating heads with a gap between them designed for cultivating either side of strawberry plants. Someone I spoke to at the show had one but I cannot remember who.

Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 289 total)