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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 289 total)
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  • #30328
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    The spring loaded impulse unit only engages at low revs holding the firing point at TDC, as soon as the engine starts and runs at 600rpm centrifugal force holds back the impulse latch so that it does not engage running the timing at 20deg, btdc.

    #30310
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Where is it that you live? Sorry for some reason my page has only just updated I thought my previous response had not been listed. JC

    #30309
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Iain
    I had a very similar experience with my MG2 137 the magneto had a label on it stating that it had been rebuilt, fat spark when driven by a drill but fitted to the engine bang bang was all I could get I persisted for days trying everything I could think of and then eventually I fitted a later mag and the engine started first pull and has continued to run perfectly ever since. Do you have a friend or member nearby that has an MG5/6/40 that would lend you a running magneto to test on your engine?

    #30298
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Iain
    I had exactly the same scenario with the magneto on my MG2 137 eventually I fitted a replacement magneto and it has never been an issue since but I worked for days trying to get it to run on the original which gave every semblance of being serviceable. Have you a machine nearby you could borrow a mag off?

    #30222
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    When you have the new points and condenser fitted try turning the mag at low speed with your drill and check that the impulse mechanism is working.It should disconnect once you speed up the rotation to about 700/800 rpm After refitting set up a strobe timing light and mark the flywheel at tdc check that spark fires at tdc for starting, if the engine starts and runs it should self advance to 20 degrees. It may be that your impulse mechanism is sticking and retarding the ignition too far to start.

    #30202
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Iain
    I have had a similar problem in the past which turned out to be a magneto fault, just not enough oomph to fire twice. I also have a dynostart fitted to an MG5/6 engine which works a treat I fitted a pulley to the back of the flywheel and mounted the dyno on top of the gearbox. It would be a better job to machine a vee belt groove in the actual flywheel. The other device I have is a two stroke power drill with a 1/2″ chuck into which I have fitted a modified MG starter dog. It struggles a bit on the first compression on my better engines and then turns them over at a fair rate until the engine starts. This enables me to have one starter for multiple tractors.

    #30201
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    It has always been rumoured that they were used on grass airfields for towing fighters out on to the runways but other than the picture Neil attached which I believe is from a museum in Holland, I have never seen any photos of MG crawlers in use. I have seen quite a few photos of crawlers painted in military livery including American army. I have a copy of a Ransomes book which details what went on with ransomes during the second world war it shows lots of photos of ploughs and crtawlers being made alongside artillery guns and aircraft parts but no aircraft towing.

    #29976
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    My neighbour has done the same thing, he has an MG5 to which he has fitted a chinese single cylinder electric start diesel engine, he uses the machine for raking horse paddocks and general trailer work.He also pulls a big Cambridge roller behind it.

    #29736
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    If it is some time since it was started, I would be tempted to connect a good set of jump leads to a big battery or a truck and keep turning it over until it starts .

    #29729
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    I think the pump will be connected to the governor linkage which has to be disconnected through an access plate. I have three Sachs engined MG and they are all very good starters once you pull out the excess fuel start button .

    #29724
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Good progress,have some spare spark plugs to hand and if you have one a spark tell tale that fits between plug and ht lead and lights up when plug sparks. Clean and check magneto points, nice new petrol and off you go ,make sure tractor is out of gear, throttle open a fraction and full choke until it fires then back off the choke slightly. To start the MG2 needs to be virtually flooded with petrol by depressing the float tickler until fuel runs out of the overflow. Good luck.

    #29721
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    You may be able to free the exhaust valve with a wooden dowel down through the plug hole if you are reluctant to remove the head.Speaking from recent experience even bits of a Ransomes MG are heavy `enough to kill you if you try lifting them unaided.

    #29704
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Some of the track drive rollers may be originals that were riveted over rather than nuts and threaded shafts. The way to free off the rollers is repeated hammering to break up the rust mud inside the roller. Do not use grease or oil on the freed rollers they are meant to run dry.Not easy to hammer with track on .

    #29703
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    PM received and cover in process of wrapping.

    #29699
    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Fuel taps can be repaired,they usually leak because the cork seals are either worn or dried out. You can buy corks online or may recover the originals by soaking them for days in alcohol or petrol.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 289 total)