[vhgmcbuddy]

Have you got it sparking on TDC with both valves closed?

What plug have you got, if it has a R in the part no then it has an internal resistor, it needs to be one without, also the plug cab must be 0ohms.

Have you got the air filter connected with oil in it as it may be drawing to much air, try putting your hand over the carb and turn it over you will feel it try to suck air in, that will draw file in and should fire at least once.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Dicky,

Either your engine is running far to fast on “tick over” or the clutch drum is rusty and/or clutch shoes are stuck but that’s unlikely

[vhgmcbuddy]

from dicky I am restoring a mg5 no idea of age as plate has been damaged where mumber should be.I need to check the centefugal clutch first as this was not allowing gear change on engine tick over could anyone help please

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for your reply. Yes the magneto has an impulse unit. I honestly thought we had a broken valve until i did a little research into it.

I have the ignition timing set to ignite as it says in the service guide, and the timing chain is set up correctly too, according to the maintenance manual we managed to find.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Rob,

The manual you have sounds like the ones on this site, https://www.einachser.org/holder/index.html

Unfortunate I can’t read them.

I have a book coming from Neil on the 600L that he is copying for me.

Engine started A lot better with the knob pulled out,

Need to replace the throttle cable as the throttle has to be a 90 degrees to the steering lever, it is stretched badly, so I may not be a hiving full throttle, I was too scared of over revving the engine, but will give it a try once the cable is replaced.

Thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Rob,

Yes, I seen your post mine is a 1961 machine with electric start and glow plug, good job as it takes a bit to get it going, wouldn’t like to be hand cranking it.

(Do you have a picture of the starting handle with measurements, I would like to make one
Do you have any books on the engine/ crawler you would be willing to copy and send me?

Regarding the choke, what exactly do you do with it, pull it a few times?

Also it doesn’t have much power, can only steer it propery in 1 gear if I try in 3 it just stops, I think the clutch must be slipping, has anyone experienced similar problems?

The serial no is 14222 – 1961 French import (for Dave to add to the survivors list)

Cheers

[vhgmcbuddy]

Managed to get it running!

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie
Yes that’s the one! It would be great to have the manual – many thanks.
Cheers
Lily

[vhgmcbuddy]

I see the fingers on the villiers site are used. I will have an ask around, see what I can fine. Owen.

[vhgmcbuddy]

You can get them here if you were looking for new. http://www.villiersparts.co.uk

[vhgmcbuddy]

Not to many about Stuart. I got one 512D, I think Wheel horse made the diesel in 1986 for one year only.I don’t know how many they turned out in in a year.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Good project you have.

If I were you, I would strip the whole lot down & get it shot blasted

That will save alot of time with the power wire brush!

I like your mug on top of the piston!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi everyone, wow what a great response thanks for your comments and advice I will try and fill you in on progress, the pictures I have sent are last months and every thing you see is stripped down and about ready (cleaned and painted) to be put back together. I have a company laser cutting new side plates and I have repaired the one wheel that was rusted away, there’s also a company in Eltham that has new self aligning double ball bearings for the gearbox shaft sitting on their shelves, if you want I can give you their address.
The carb is an the original up draught Jap (not zenith) I have it but the square banjo, bolt, and float are missing and also the magneto is just about had it. The engine itself is in good condition no play at all from the piston or big end, and I can remember my Father having trouble with the carb more than any thing else . Both of the ends of the handle bars were rotted away but I have rebuilt them and managed to save the twist throttle.
I will keep you posted on progress, and thanks very much for your offers of help, rusty

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[vhgmcbuddy]

How would I go about testing the cool.

Does this chap in Idaho ship to the uk?

[vhgmcbuddy]

No you dont smack it Phil!

They need to be pulled out. They can be & are a pain if stuck.

If you do get them out, use plenty of copper grease when you put them back. You only tap them in 5-10mm then do up the grub screw. Job done

Good luck!

Chris

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