new member looking for parts

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi every one, I have been looking on your site for a few weeks now and have taken up your generous offer of a 30 day trial. My late farther purchased a trusty tractor with plough from a auction in Essex way back in the 70`s the auctioneer called it an IRON MAN he used it for about a year then parked it up in his back garden. So after having been nocked off my motorcycle I’ve had the time and chance to start to rebuild it, here are some pictures of me stripping it down.
I have managed to source some parts from a chap in Hawkesbury who has given me nothing but good appraisal of this website, but I am still looking for a jap carb and gearbox side plates because the old ones are rusted through any help would be gratefully received, thanks Rusty

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[charlie]

Welcome to the forum, looking at the amount of work your Trusty needs I think the 30 day trial will need converting to paid membership!!!! That style of bumper is the early one, forum member trusty220 will be able to give a more accurate date from the serial number. A Zenith carb for the engine should not be too difficult to find, gearbox side plates might be more difficult. The wheels seem to have seen better days too. Keep us posted of progress.

[vhgmcbuddy]

As the gearbox side panels are just flat plate, I think your best bet would be to get new ones made using the originals as templates. Any small fabrication/engineering workshop should be able to knock up some new ones for you without too much of a problem. You could even buy some sheet steel and have a crack at making them yourself. Same goes for the wheel centres, as these are also flat plate.
As Charlie says, the Zenith 24T2 carb should be fairly easy to get hold of at auto jumbles, tractor shows or online auction sites. You can even buy new ones, if you are prepared to shell out a daft sum of money!!

[trusty220]

It looks like you’ve got yourself a tidy little project! Don’t worry, I’ve rescued Trusty’s from far worse condition so don’t lose heart.
I can make one or two observations from your photographs; my best recommendation is to replace the wheels completely because the ones fitted are not the originals and are badly wasted away. I’ll have a look to see if I have a pair that I can spare.
The JAP 5 engine that you have is an earlier one, but you can pick them up for not too much money so it may be your best option to invest in another engine to provide parts for your original.
I can’t see that the side plates are too badly pitted to be rescued. Normally the parts that are rusted and pitted are the exposed areas, and the places where the reduction gears are bolted on are still the original thickness. It should be possible to clean them up and fill the areas that are pitted without losing any strength and, more importantly, without losing the alignment.
If you let me know the serial number I will enter it onto the Register.

[hortiman]

Hello Rustyman.
I have a dead trusty down here in West Wales, you would be welcome to come and remove the pieces you need. I am not sure where you are based.

Chris

[trusty220]

From the photo’s it looks like you may be struggling to remove the countershaft. They are sneaky little things and are impossible to remove unless you’ve spotted the grub screw hiding between the left hand sprocket and the bearing casting. It is normally a slotted head screw that is held in place with a piece of locking wire wrapped around the outside of the collar, but it’s buried in the grease from the bearing and difficult to spot.
On the later ones the screw and locking wire are replaced by a spring clip that just knocks out. In both cases they prevent the phosphor-bronze bush holding the left-hand drive sprocket from moving up and down the shaft; it is free to rotate around it, but there is a flange inside the dog clutch that prevents it moving sideways. If you force it you break the bush (yes, I’ve done it in the past when I didn’t know!).
Good luck with it.
If you are anywhere new Newark this weekend come and see us. We’re in Crocker Hall 2, Newark Showground.

[dave]

If you live in the Essex area please give me a phonecall
on 01376 340072. I might be able to help you with
some engine spares. Dave Clark.

[charlie]

Note JAP engine for a Trusty has a longer crankshaft I believe to enable the centrifugal clutch to be fitted.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi everyone, wow what a great response thanks for your comments and advice I will try and fill you in on progress, the pictures I have sent are last months and every thing you see is stripped down and about ready (cleaned and painted) to be put back together. I have a company laser cutting new side plates and I have repaired the one wheel that was rusted away, there’s also a company in Eltham that has new self aligning double ball bearings for the gearbox shaft sitting on their shelves, if you want I can give you their address.
The carb is an the original up draught Jap (not zenith) I have it but the square banjo, bolt, and float are missing and also the magneto is just about had it. The engine itself is in good condition no play at all from the piston or big end, and I can remember my Father having trouble with the carb more than any thing else . Both of the ends of the handle bars were rotted away but I have rebuilt them and managed to save the twist throttle.
I will keep you posted on progress, and thanks very much for your offers of help, rusty

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[charlie]

Glad to hear you are making progress, thanks for sharing photos, we always like photos.
As you have discovered there is a wealth of knowledge within our club, why not put membership on your Christmas list.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Good project you have.

If I were you, I would strip the whole lot down & get it shot blasted

That will save alot of time with the power wire brush!

I like your mug on top of the piston!

[will-haggle]

The JAP Carb was used on wartime military generators (Charging Set No 5) I used to own one, so your Trusty may well be wartime, I don’t know how long JAP’s continued to use that carb before switching to the Zenith. The Zenith carb coped better with the changing levels encountered when used in a mobile situation.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi everyone,
here is an update on progress, I managed to get my hands on a float and banjo from another carb I found on an auction site, I also found a good mag at a good price. The new plates came back and I managed to drill all the holes by clamping the old ones together with the new plates.
The centre on the other wheel had to be cut out as the felt washer would not of rubbed smoothly against the corroded wheel, I also had to make the back plate and top plate of the gear box as they had rusted away. I constructed a sand blaster a few years ago so its been quiet easy to clean and paint the parts, so if you live near by (Erith) you can always come and have a go at blasting some of your parts. Here are some more pictures.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

On my Trusty there is a round piece of plate sandwiched between the inside of the wheel and reduction gear housing into which the felt washer locates. The plate has been pressed to form a small lip all the way around the circumference. The inside diameter of this lip is the same outside diameter of the felt washer. Not sure if this plate was fitted to all Trusty’s as there is no mention of it on my spare parts list. Unfortunately, of all the parts that I photographed when rebuilding mine, I don’t have one showing this round plate.
Anyway, you are making very good progress. I still haven’t completely finished mine after more than 2 years!!

[trusty220]

The circular plate that you mention was an optional extra that was supplied by the factory, particularly to prevent dust and dirt contaminating the felt seal. They were known as Dust Shields and you can use them to overcome the pitting on an old wheel if you don’t feel like replacing the centres.

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