[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Thanks’ for the information. The engine has been a lot of work and I have got nowhere. Originally it lost power and then refused to start, since then the injector has been reconditioned, the fuel pump has been recalibrated, a reconditioned starter motor has been fitted and finally a new piston and rebore and now the oil pump has failed and caused damage to the new piston, so I am cutting my losses putting a new engine on, but of course dimension’s, rotation, revs and power have to be similar. I will look into the Lombardini engine.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Probably the most common non standard engine fitted would be a Lombardini diesel. No chance of repairing the Sachs?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello – does anyone know the right colour for my Clifford (Mk3?/Model B). Presently it is a light green – is that the factory colour does anyone know? Many thanks.

edited by admin to remove wanted advert and personal e mail address. See for sale and wanted topic for reasons.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thankyou Charlie for the information much appreciated.
I have just purchased a Westwood S1300(m).
Manufacturing date 2000 so a little way to go before it becomes a vintage machine. 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Sean.

[vhgmcbuddy]

From what I remember Murray ( Mountfield) used a couple of different setups for securing the blade but I think that the part number for the nut was 15×72. Chances are that is an old number but may be a starting point. It or it’s replacement may still be current but if you draw a blank try Jon Cruse at the Hailsham Mower Centre; he specialises in old stock for all makes.

Edit. The parts book shows it as 1/2” x 20tpi which is a standard UNF nut size.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Contact the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) in Reading. They have the John Allen & Sons records. They were able to date mine for me and tell me who it was originally sold to.
From searching the museum online database, it looks like your serial number falls in the 1950-51 build year (https://rdg.ent.sirsidynix.net.uk/client/en_GB/merl/search/results?qu=John+Allen+and+Sons+%28Oxford%29+Ltd&lm=MERL2).

Hope this helps.

Sean

[vhgmcbuddy]

Check the outside perimeter of the flywheel for an arrow stamped into the rim . This arrow was put there on assebly when the factory had timed the engine to make it easier to retime in the future.
First check and adjust the contact breaker points to between 12 and 15 thou.This has to be done with the flywheel in place as the points operating cam is integral with it. Its a bit of a fiddle as it has to be done through the “window in the flywheel. I usually start with a clean 12 thou feeler gauge and settle for a slightly loose sliding fit but having tighten up the adjuster clamping screw just make sure that a 15 thou feeler will not go through the gap. That way its probability 13/14 thou. Having done that pull a clean piece of copy paper through the closed points to remove any traces of dirt. When pulling the paper through, stop before the end so that the points don’t snap down on to the edge and pull out fibres which cause a problem later. Hold the moving point clear of the paper.
The next step is to remove the cylinder head and turn the crank to top dead centre with both valves shut. Then while making sure that the crank does not move turn the flywheel so that the arrow lines up with the small protrusion cast into the magneto back plate.
Tighten the flywheel – very tight – Villiers sold a special spanner designed to be struck with a hammer.
If you have not got a flywheel with an arrow the job is a little more complicated. Set the points gap as above. Then find top dead centre with the valves closed and rotate the crank anti clockwise to lower the piston 3/16″ down the bore. Then ensuring that the crank does not move turn the flywheel so that the points just start to open. The traditional way to determine the “just” was to place a strip of cigarette rolling paper between the points and apply a little tension. “just” is as soon as the points release the paper. Then tighten the flywheel.
Gets easier with practice!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi. New member here just signed up.. Ive just fit a new coil and timed my T.. Did you sort yours ??
Mark

[vhgmcbuddy]

HiThere
I wonder could you assist me . My uncle bought one of these machines lately and is in the process of cleaning it up and restoring it . Its not in bad condition and indeed the engine runs fine. However the problem is with the engagement of the belt drive from engine to gearbox. Its definitely been altered at some point in that the whole engine seems to be on 2 hinges and the connection mechanism seems to have been dismantled before he got hold of it . what I / we are after is some good photos of the area around this part ie how the rod coming from the handle actually works to engage the belt drive . some photos seem to have a mechanism at the end of them that either moves part of the engine and on another photo the rod seems to move a tensioner which is positioned deirectly on the belt . Any photos of the area would be our salvation as we will fabricate the parts or try to source once we can understand whats missing .
Thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

Lots of modern ride-ons have electric clutches to engage the drive to the blades and these are normally bought in items so it is more than likely that you can find something suitable from a “mower breaker”. Be aware that they can have quite a heavy current draw so the alternator capacity of your “ found” engine needs to be sufficient. If your engine’s original application did not have an electric clutch, you could have a problem.

[vhgmcbuddy]

More information required – what model Villiers engine? I presume that you are referring to ignition timing and not valve timing ? Some engines have their flywheels keyed to the crank so the basic timing is set by design. Others have the flywheel secured on its taper with no key and it has to be positioned in relation to the piston position – slightly more complicated.
So, what have you got, images are always useful.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi dermic1 it has been leaking from r/h side standing in front of the machine.
I may need thicker oil . What oil do you put in . I am going to re engine the farmers boy with a mk 12 engine. It has mk15 high speed .
Carl Harper

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you very much for taking the trouble to reply and I am very
grateful to you for the information.

Best wishes,

Kenneth.

[vhgmcbuddy]

It looks like a MK3 with rubber wheels, I have the MK2 with steel wheels, One handle is for wheel travel and one for the cultivator, The MK£ 3 I understand had reverse function, so the handlebar grip would be the clutch, if you go online, there is quite a lot of info on the Clifford machines
Regards Plonker

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