[vhgmcbuddy]

<In my Villiers MK15 and MK15HS operators manuals I have there is no mention of setting the timing up this “easy” way.Hope you get it sorted soon. >

I think that the reason that no mention is made of the “easy way” is that not all engines seem to have had those marks added. I’ve got just one Villiers manual,out of many, which actually mentions that those marks are added during the initial engine build.
While it may make life easy it makes no allowance for the where the points gap is set in the 12 – 15thou range. That together with a bit of inaccuracy in finding the exact TDC position (a few degrees of crank rotation where the piston appears to be stationary) can produce a cumulative error.
It would actually make setting BTDC much easier if more manuals gave it in degrees rather than a linear measurement but taking Villiers as an example, one or two manuals do but the majority don’t.

The rebore makes no difference to the timing.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ref the ignition timing Joe…….i have on my workbench a Villiers MK15HS (the High Speed version of the MK15) which I have dug out as I am going to sell it.It had a +020″ rebore and new genuine Villiers / Hepolite piston kit many years ago and has never been used since.Anyway on this engine there is a mark on the flywheel rim and a mark on the alloy armature plate at the 12 o clock position.With the piston at TDC and with both these marks aligned the ignition timing advance is correctly set.Just remember to set the contact breaker gap first though.In my Villiers MK15 and MK15HS operators manuals I have there is no mention of setting the timing up this “easy” way.Hope you get it sorted soon.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Steven just download shrinkpic and that does the job for you. Thanks Sam

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi well was it that good no one took any photos come on chaps,

[vhgmcbuddy]

You say “new magneto from Meetens” . Is that new new, or new used? If the latter and the points are clean and shutting squarely,I’d be inclined to suspect the condenser (square one hidden under the points). Bit of a faff to get at but relatively cheap to try a substitute. Other than that you could replace the points and condenser with a Meco electronic module which makes the ignition system almost winter proof.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looks like friday was the start for lot,s of us . I got my howard out and made a half decent job on one of my allotments. Patricks day was usually my spud planting date not a chance for a few years now??Looks like we need a new rule book…

[vhgmcbuddy]

Things are progressing well. I have decided to replace the bevel pinion shaft, bearings and the two smaller gears in the reduction gearbox.( thanks to Neil)
When setting up the Preload of the Timpken bearings I encountered a problem.
Can anyone advise me of the correct setting for these bearings?
The old bearings were quite worn and the nuts and locking tab were slack on the shaft.
Also I am considering making up a new securing nut with a thin collar I can stab into the keyway on the shaft, rather than the Two nuts and locking washer.

Thanks.

SILVERFOX.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi all, just to let you know that you can also send in your entry form by email if you prefer, just click on the link below then click on entry forms
https://www.tractorfest.co.uk/

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi alan,
thanks for the reply I bought it from a guy in Barnsley who restored it and has had it for years but he new nothing about it,
if you want to see some pictures I have put it on ebay not really to sell but to see if anyone has any information or market value.
as for the engine its a bsa 420 side valve so I belive
cheers andy

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have a 1960,s Uni-Horse tractor too in original and unrestored condition and is fitted with a BSA engine with the electric start option.It also has a mid mounted mower fitted.The bonnet is fibreglass.It has 3 forward gears and a reverse.It was last used possibly 30 years ago and has been barn stored.I have been meaning to get it up and running again when time allows as I wish to sell it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I would like to see a picture of the Vee 4 MG crawler if anyone has one.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I TOTALLY AGREE WITH TRUSTY 220 IT IS ABOUT TIME THE AGM CAME FURTHER NORTH THAN THE MIDLANDS THER ARE PLENTY OF COMMUNITY FARMS UP NORTH WITH GOOD CONFERENCE ROOMS AS WELL AS MUSEUMS ETC.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Just back from a great day out, this is developing into a really large event, great range of all types of machines. Nice to be able to say hello to lots of members of the VHGMC, we really are a friendly bunch, just how a club like this should be. Thanks to all involved in organising, I’ll certainly be a regular from now on.
PS does anyone know what the V4 engine was in the Ransomes MG? Not an original option, unless I’m very much mistaken and with straight through pipes it was making too much noise to ask! (I know, fine talk from a bloke with 2 SIMARS at the event!)

[vhgmcbuddy]

Set the contact breaker gap to between 012″-015″ and leave the flywheel slightly loose on its taper so it can be turned whilst the crankshaft remains stationary.Set the piston at 1/8″ BTDC (remove cylinder head to get an accurate position and only refit the head after the timing has been completed).The flywheel must be turned so that the points are just beginning to open.Retighten the flywheel ensuring the crank does not turn.Refit the cylinder head.If the carburettor and fuel system,the ignition system and the compression components are all in good order then you will have no problems :):)

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes exactly as shown on that picture.

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