[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the reply, I have done this and the governor is out and the link rod is out, how ever the rack is stuck completely to the right and pump is seized aswell hence why rack can’t be moved?

Many thanks
Josh

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi All,
Thank you so much for all your replies, i really appreciate them.
Yes, the mag was properly tested once stripped, i had already put in new points and condenser and they have now also bench tested the coil. The spark is now ‘superb’.

These points on the carb airways are where are kind of getting stuck at i suspect, the carb has been ultrasonically cleaned already, it’s coming off the machine again though to double check these airways as there seems to be a theme with these carbs.
I’ll let you guys know how we get on once it goes back on he machine.

Thanks for your informative help so far.

Brett

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy. Yes agreed, I have already sent it to a local light engineering company who specialise in refurbing old machinery similar to this. They have stripped the magneto and set the timing etc to make sure I hadn’t made a mistake, so they are suggesting I find an alternative carb.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi next stage of fitting plough to tractor doing a wee bit at a time as I hope I am going to do it once how often have we said this

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Good suggestion, but I didn’t mean to imply that I have one now but I’d been in conversation with a man from Leicester who has two and neither of us knew the answer to the BUX question. I did have one that I took as a trade in when I had the business but I was doing a bit of post retirement de- cluttering and sold it to a chap from Oxfordshire who apparently has a bit of a collection.
This may be of interest
https://www.outdoorking.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=63824

[vhgmcbuddy]

Oh, I managed to work out what was going on with the gearbox I think. Someone had tried to overhaul the thing and just left the thrust bearing off altogether. I just fitted one in and it fitted perfectly (I think). Time will tell. Thanks Charlie for the post.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The Coleby is really starting to take shape now. There have been quite of few issues on the way including gearbox cracks, cab problems, broken engine governor, sometimes a less than understanding wife (although she is understanding most of the time).

One of the biggest problems I have had with the engine is getting it started without petrol. I can tug at the pull cord all I like without petrol and she just won’t fire! Three times I’ve tried this. They say you live and learn.

I managed to get down to Newark and bought a new WICO series A for spares. I should be able to get the other up and running soon.

Pictures will follow again soon when there is a bit of sun. I’ll hopefully be showing this again next year at a couple of shows but it does get expensive hiring a van for a weekend.

That’ll do for now I guess.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I think, in- house too. My parents had a new Rotoscythe in 1952 and I was deemed old enough to use it. I well remember that turbine like sound – and also the burn on the wrist from the exhaust, acquired when reaching over the machine to the height adjuster knob rather than walking around the front.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Josh
Adjacent to the injector pump there is a 19mm? plug screwed into the crankase, remove this and underneath you should be able to see the coupling between the pump and the rod, it is a spring loaded ball joint which you should be able to pop off which should then let you remove the pump.
Hope that helps.When refitting wrap a stiff wire around the rod, pull the wire up the plug hole to hold the link in place whilst you snap the joint back in.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ok, thanks for the reply, new phone, new forum trying to find my way around.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Phil
Hope your project is going well. I was up in Derby last night and managed to strip the engine down before popping to the pub. Took the tappers lid off and found one of the valves was stuck. We took that out and now have the task of grinding it down.

This morning managed to take the cover off to reveal the magneto. I came across a fantastic youtube video where a young lad was working on his villiers engine. Some good tips. Millenials are great !! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ukASbs3br0&t=407s

I look forward to the day I can use it on my allotment plot in Finchley. Where are you based ?
best regards
Graham

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Graham,
Looks like you’ve got a good project there 😉 I’m miles away from you down South-KT8, usually have to drive a distance to pick-up this kit from auctions! Got some good London clay down the plot that needs ploughing! In the Atom – 15/30 manual is a diagram of the wheel hub and free wheel housing. It’s simple construction and all comes apart relatively easily with the help of LOTS of WD40!! All the nuts are BSF so you’ll need the correct spanners so as not to burr the nuts. Screws in housing will be tight. Attached pics are of one i haven’t touched yet, the pawls are missing though. Hopefully there shouldn’t be too much wear. A wire brush cleans-up most of it well then some metal grease to finish.
Regards,
Phil

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi all, new to forum, I recently bought an Allen Scythe, non runner but that was easily remedied. I am curious about the age of it, machine number is 200877 if anyone can help, its F type one I think. I have just bought another one with 4 stroke engine, hopefully I will get it running soon too.
Thanks for any info

Graham

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[vhgmcbuddy]

The angle iron chassis is 1 and a half by 1 and a half.Dimensions are 48 inches long 33 inches wide and the two timber runners are 4 foot long hope this helps i am rebuilding mine and possibly extending the main frame so i can sit in front instead of in the truck. Hope this helps.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

with a bit of luck there are pictures attached the bracket dimensions are as follows pivot brackets 4inches by 4 and a half 2 inches along the bottom and 5 inches across the angle the tube/ pivot is 1 inch diameter. the front brackets are5 inches long and 1 inch and a half wide

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