[vhgmcbuddy]

Steve, Don’t put your private email address on this as it is a public Forum although people have to sign in to reply. You are better keeping private information in the private message section.
Just click on the member you want to connect with and it gives you the option of sending a Private Message PM.
If I were you I would remove your email address from your post and only use the PM system in future..

Phil

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi have f190 workshop manual but it is in french, looking for someone to transfer to english,quite a few pages

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi peter sorry did not get message whats pm ?? will give you my email address hope this helps would willinly pay for the information in paper form would pay for postage and the cost of paper to yourself can send my address if you can do will pay before you send thanks steve

[vhgmcbuddy]

update. engine sold but have only the crusher left plus 2 long flat belts

[vhgmcbuddy]

chris if you look back to old forum projects, I think I logged down the RAL COLOUR CODES. in my auto culto field model L resto

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Rob thanks for the photo, my thoughts are along those lines, maybe more than one Modle of the Mark2 was produced or a fault with the handle designs who knows, I’ve found nothing in the local library’s but there is still hope on that side as they are looking farther afield & on luck so far at Reading ( merl ). But still trying.

Tony.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Rob I’ve had a look under the bracket & no hole for the handle so the bracket is the handle base as in photos .

Tony

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[vhgmcbuddy]

so sorry to hear to here your news and hope all goes well for you. i will hold a spot for you at tractorfest right up to the week of the show. all the best to you and chrissy

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Rob thanks for that I will have a look to row and let you know.

Tony

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello Rob.
Your photos of the back of the Troy are different to mine as in these pictures

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[vhgmcbuddy]

If it is of any interest, I did my Landrover fuel tank about ten years ago when I was restoring it, The tank was very rusty inside, I used a product called SLOSH ! you do not have to mix a hardener with it, and all I can say, is that after ten years the coating is still there, and I have not had any trouble since. Best Of Luck!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I used a kit from Tank Care Products (https://www.tankcareproducts.co.uk/) on my Trusty fuel tank. I had originally thought that the tank would be too far gone to save. It was very badly corroded inside and out with many pinholes. My fuel tank is now as good as new, no leaks and no rust.
The most critical part of the procedure was heating the tank and the actual sealant. I have a log burning stove, so placed the tank on top until it was warm, but still OK to touch with bare hands. I heated the sealant in the microwave oven. I set the oven to it’s lowest power and zapped the sealant in 10 second bursts until it was about the consistency of milk. Once the sealant was nice and runny, I mixed in the hardener and poured into the warm tank. I then bunged the filler hole with a cork bung, as I didn’t want the cap coating. You then need to quickly rotate the tank around and around so the sealant can flow over all surfaces while it is still runny. It will begin to cure the moment it is poured into the tank, so speed is of the essence. If the tank isn’t warm, the sealant will cure too quickly and not uniformly coat the inside surfaces.
The tank care products website has some very helpful movies in the Q&A section.

Hope this helps,

Sean

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello All, The advise in manual for this engine contradicts some of what is stated in the advise above. The manual states: ‘A fully detergent oil must be used’ It goes on to say: ‘VERY IMPORTANT NOTE, Attention is drawn to the extreme importance of using only a high grade oil in the engine if satisfactory and reasonable working life is to be assured. With this engine the lubrication is such that any build-up of sludge in the oil lines can cause serious damage. This is obviated by the use of a more heavily detergented oil than is usual. These grades are those recommended above and on no account should these recommendations be departed from.’
The oil grades it recommends for the temp range most appropriate to the UK (between 4.4 & 32 degrees celsius) are as follows: Shell Rotella T Oil 20/20W, Castrol CR20 or Agricastrol HD20/1, Esso Estor HDX20W or TSD 618, Mobiloil Delvac Special Multigrade or Delvac Special.
I put these grades to Morris a few months backs and asked them to recommend an equivalent. They suggested using Golden Film SAE 20. I am not sure this is the correct choice as it is described as a low detergent/dispersant lubricant. It might be worth rechecking this with them in more detail. I notice Rotella T 20/20W is still available in the US for Detroit Diesel 2 stoke engines.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the response Charlie. When I opened the casing, I found that it was about half full of mainly water, with a little oil floating on the surface, so as I plan on using the Simar in the garden for decades to come (hopefully!!), I have taken the decision to fully strip and rebuild the machine. With water being present in the drive casing, I would like to check what state the bushes are in, just in case.
Thankfully, the rest of the machine is in pretty good shape. Must say that I have been most impressed by the standard of engineering. Having cut my teeth rebuilding a Trusty, the Simar is in a different league when it comes to complexity!!
Will have a browse of the Simar website forum. My French is limited to “Oui” & “Non”, but might get lucky and find a helpful photo on there.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ok great, many thanks, will shout if I need anything !!

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