[vhgmcbuddy]

Gents. I am getting back to you to inform that I have finally found my muffler (have actually bought 3 pieces when last in the US in March) but had to weld a 1″ steel pipe to get it to fit where it should on the exhaust part of the engine (the other end of the pipe was threaded to match the muffler’s end). Thank you all for your help and shared documents.

I am asking for one little additional information concerning the long belt that connects to the rotating cutting deck (there are 2 blades) via a set of 2 at the front and 2 at the rear poulies. The young neighbour who cuts my grass must have hit a tree stump and the belt snapped/got shredded and came off (I also think a bit came off).

Questions if I may:
– What is the length of this belt ?
– Anyone got a sketch of how to fit the belt back on the tractor?

Thanks again, your help is appreciated.

[vhgmcbuddy]

So I checked the needle and it was set at 2.5″
I adjusted it to 2 3/8 and when started it was VERY smokey and wouldn’t start, so I suspect too rich. Perhaps it should be somewhere in between. I will try splitting the difference, but that extra 1/8 does seem to be most of the travel in the lean-wards direction.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Great thanks. Makes perfect sense. I will adjust it tomorrow.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for that Stuart. I thought I had set the needle correctly, but its worth checking.
Can you give me a step-by-step so I don’t have to do it wrong more than twice?
🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Guys

Thanks. This little tractor pulls boats around for a living, so I will go to yard next Sunday and fix it, thanks again.

Graeme

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Both

That is very useful info. I think the machine is 1941, which would make it a ‘TB’ and not a ‘T’ engine, but both are, as you say, dry sump. I read that there were two pumps, but without the good explanation on how they worked I was a little concerned, but now as you have explained it does seem all is as it should be.

After first post on this subject I took off all the new looking oil pipes, filter, and looked inside the holes. All clear, and when I got the machine I used a flushing oil to clean the internals, so new oil just fitted is also running clear, so no signs of grunge.

So I think she is ready for a trip to the Forrest to pull a log or two….thanks, I am not sure how I would manage without this forum, not knowing what to expect is a challenge sometimes.

PS, you have a Norton? I have a Triumph Trident, still in renovation, built like a tractor, hope it handles better when I finish it! 🙂

Graeme

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks good to know
Graeme

[vhgmcbuddy]

Wristpin is right. If you look up Toro master parts viewer, Model No 1-0130 you can see the pulley.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Stuart, Thanks for your views Kind regards Rob

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi

I have used the thick ‘shaped’ washer from my sad machine, and torqued up to 720 inchpounds, ran it in she’d until engine warm, seemed ok. Oil pump lazy, so want to check that first before outing…..see other post on oil pump……I will report back on clutch once in full use.

Cheers for help.
Graeme

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Rob

Thanks for info. I used to use an old horse trailer, but when the horse went, so did the trailer, and now I am one of those guys with planks and a small unsuitable trailer, which is OK for mob paving the Wheel Horse locally, but the MG2 is a different issue, or writhed of them on the main road (I live in rural area).

Small plant trailer seems like best option.

Has anyone put a Ransomes MG into a small box van, my Dad has a Citreno Despatch with metal ramps that he uses to transport his snmall golf buggy. Payload is over 1tonne I think, so should fit and cope with load.

Thanks….see post on starting MG2….. Yes she is running! (Oil pump looks lazy however)

Graeme

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well, good to hear you have found a way to get your WH back to work Owen. I see you got those parts separated to get the lift shaft off the tractor. Yes I have found the same thing with machine shops not wanting to do one off jobs or small jobs without big money. Please keep us posted Owen. Glenn

[vhgmcbuddy]

Latest on the lift shaft, I enquired at a few engineering shops regarding making the part. Mention it’s just a one off job, and I got we have a standard charge for smaller jobs, bring it along and we might be able to help, hope you are not in a hurry as these jobs get put on the bottom of the list, might as well have said they didn’t want the job. So I managed to find a length of 1″ diameter steel rod, cut it to length and a friend’s got a milling machine and kindly cut a key way, a few holes need drilling in it I can do myself. A few bits I ordered from Toro mainly bush bearings that the shaft runs in arrived yesterday, so after tidying and painting few bits it will be ready to fit it on.

Attachments:

1. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have learnt a bit more. When I look in the spark plug hole I see a remarkable amount of black crud. The correct plug for this engine is a Lodge CN, surprisingly still available. I now know this is a hot plug with 1/2 inch reach. The fitted plugs have been 3/8″ reach and, I suspect, cooler. At the very least this explains the ridge of crud round the bottom of the spark plug hole. I feel a little closer to a better tick over.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Inspirational, great job
Graeme

[Author]

Posts