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Viewing 15 posts - 2,011 through 2,025 (of 4,573 total)
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  • #12940
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hi

    Spark plug can be obtained from Neil, he provided me with an adaptor for my MG2 so I can use more commonly available plugs. Not sure if the MG5 is same, but check with Neil.

    Recent lesson for me on MG2 was to check spark plug cap is the right one. For MG2 with Wico Magnito you need one without a resistor built in, or it makes for a weak spark. Once changed for simple cap, zero resistance, and new fuel, spark and valve timing checked and set after quick valve grind, the MG2 is running fine.

    Again Neil will no doubt help with any parts.

    Cheers and good luck
    Graeme

    #12938
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hi all,

    OK. Bit of a learning curve this! 🙂

    So, as I understand I need a Champion 8 Spark Plug.

    I think this is the one? Do you agree?

    Then I have the problem that I need a socket to fit it… Does anyone know the A/F or type/size of socket I would need? There was also mention of an adaptor so that I could fit a normal spark plug. Is this recommended?

    Dave, thanks for adding mine to the list. I presume it isn’t already on there, and therefore not known to the club? The engine number which I found on the right hand side of the casting appears to read: MGE 1382. I presume that is the right number? If not can you tell me where it is located?

    The Greensparkplug company website looks interesting. Thank you.

    As I said before I hope to change the oil and spark plug then tackle the fuel system.

    May I just ask what the general opinion of this MG5 is? And out of interest what one would put it’s value at? Don’t worry I’m not selling it. I’m just curious as to wether I’d paid over the odds for it!

    Thanks in advance 🙂

    James

    #12925
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Thanks Stuart.

    #12924
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    One other question.

    I run an old Series 2A Land Rover.

    You mention Morris Goldenfilm SAE 50.

    Can I run the Ransomes on 20W-50? As I have loads of this for the Land Rover engine..

    The manual says: Heavy SAE 50…

    Thoughts?

    #12923
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Wow!

    Hi all, thank you for the very helpful information.

    I’ll order some fresh oil up right away. 🙂

    A few more questions then!

    A) Where might I purchase a new spark plug. And what type do I need? As I understand it is a short reach type?

    B) Is it possible to get a overhaul kit for the Amal 356/1? I live near Burlen Fuel systems in Salisbury. Perhaps they can help?

    C) You refeer to a vapourising box. I presume you mean the square-ness of the manifold?

    D) Am I right in thinking that with this TVO manifold fitted I will be unable to run on pure petrol? – Might explain part of the problem…

    In the meantime I shall investigate the carb jets as you describe above. 🙂

    Neil, Good stuff. Email on it’s way to you!

    Cheers

    James

    #12922
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hello,

    Welcome to Ransomes MG world. Thats a nice looking example of an MG5 made in 1952.

    Your model indeed has a TVO manifold fitted with an AMAL 356 carburettor which is unusual on an MG5 so perhaps not the original engine for the reasons Neil stated.
    Regarding you getting it started I would remove the carb bowl and then the jets and blow them out. Also remove the bung in the middle of the carb on the top, then removed the emulsion tube, clean and check for spliting. If you don’t have compresssed air use a WD40 aerosol with the straw attached and spray em out. Obtain a new spark plug. Strip and clean fuel pump – the non return valve is correct. You should also check valve clearances and perhap valve condition as you get deeper into it. Check outlet from fuel tank is not blocked with rust & debris.

    I would change the oil now before any starting attempt to avoid pumping the contaminated old oil around the galleries and bearings. Drain the oil overnight, replenish with new oil for example Morris Goldenfilm SAE 50 is what I use. When you get it started and run for an hour or so change it again.

    Best of luck with it. You’ll get lots of help and guidance on here.

    #12916
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    A few more pictures of collection.. and a picture showing the front cover off.

    Attachments:
    #12901
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    The other weak spot is about 18″ behind the back of the machine, they usually spend far to much time and effort tinkering in the allotment shed trying to get it/ keep it going when if they (should I say I) had got something newer I have the job done in 1/2 the time. That’s a bit unfair, but you’ll see what I mean.
    Best of luck.
    James

    #12889
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Managed to get a quick look at it today. Dont think adjusting the cable is going to help as even when the cable is fully loosened its still the same. There does appear to be a make shift brake of sorts that’s meant to stop the pulley wheel but is worn. I have managed to temp fix it but needing a stronger spring I think that will do the trick.
    It also needs a kill switch fitted as it nearly took off today with me holding on for dear life. I managed to get it into 1st, 2nd and reverse as well so that was good although even that is needing some adjustments as the gear lever as it keeps popping out but think I may be able to fix fingers crossed.
    Is there oil level on the gear box? Cant seem to find it.

    #12888
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hi Tump I am pleased to see that you have got your 700 working if you would like to see my 700 working on my allotment there is a link below. Do you have the 16″ wheels with your one.
    There are about six videos showing various jobs being done by Howard machines.
    By the way I worked at Howards
    Wishing you all the best
    Myosotis

    #12884
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Resolved! It was certainly an engine wear problem, with a whole raft of things working together. I think the main issue was the inlet valve guide wear. So, as in the previous post, it was bored out to the maximum (+40) because the cylinder had become mis-shapen. Oversize piston and rings provided, and new valve guides fitted. The existing valves were re-faced and the guides reamed to fit, and the valve seats were also re-cut.

    I also fitted a small end bush, using a hand reamer. It all went back together yesterday and started well.

    Looking back on the many years of frustration with these beautiful old machines, I regret never having done this before!

    #12883
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Looks like a great project. Very tempting but wrong end of country, lack of space, and too many other projects means some other lucky person will have the pleasure…..but don’t scrap it, someone will save it for future…..if not I will find a home some place…..Graeme

    #12880
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    I’ve just visited where we store the Merry Tiller and find that the bearing within the roller is worn. It looks like a none replaceable type type of bearing.Does anyone have a spare belt tensioning roller? I’d guess its about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches wide.

    #12878
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Picture below

    Attachments:
    #12876
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hello,

    I’m having a clear up at our family farm in East Sussex and came across what I believe is a Martin Markham Colt Deluxe with loader, would anyone be interested in saving it from the scrap man?

    James

Viewing 15 posts - 2,011 through 2,025 (of 4,573 total)