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August 4, 2015 at 5:09 pm #13949
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterGlad you got the Norton running without too many problems. Three years after starting the rebuild of mine, I have still yet to get the engine to run. I am now feeling inspired to give it another go. I did get it to blow smoke rings from the exhaust on each pull, until it kicked back and snapped the starting strap (again!!)
July 29, 2015 at 11:45 am #13908
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterYou’ve not missed anything yet, been keeping an eye out for you.
July 27, 2015 at 1:08 pm #13903
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterDear Charlie,
I am new to this forum so please forgive me if I am misbehaving by replying to this thread.
I have one of these machines and would be extremely grateful if you could let me have a copy of the manual as well. I am struggling to get it going and really want to so that it can complement my beast of an Allen Scythe.
Thank you very much,
Richard.July 26, 2015 at 10:28 am #13897
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks will haggle did try ato truck club but alas they have problems and very slow to respond just my luck, will try facecloth though under some other id as really cant be bothered with it .
many thanks cfJuly 25, 2015 at 9:27 pm #13873
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterDear all,
Thanks to this forum and Neil JARRETT, I succeeded to start my crawler Ransomes MG6. Here is what I have done before setting the valve at 0,15 mm : I removed the wick holder and I placed the push rod out of position when adjusting the valve.
It is marvellous , I am very very happy.
Here is the the machine no MK6 13699
and the Drayton engine no (ALPRO M34362636 34R /24/E )
and my email is delval_michael@yahoo.fr (for private contact)I have now two simple questions :
Where is the oil filter on the Drayton Engine ?
What type of oil (available in France) should I use for the gear box, the engine, the air filter ?
What type of grease should I use ?MIKE26 (a french who likes reliable and nice mechanic)
July 24, 2015 at 8:38 am #13868
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterthanks for the reply.is there a picture i can look at or a wed site i can have a look at thanks
July 24, 2015 at 8:17 am #13867
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi all,
Can anyone tell me what capacitance value I should read across the capacitor.
And, presumably I should be able to see the points spark on the magneto, as per a distributor?
Another query relating to the Amal carb. With the air induction pipe off, and the emulsion tube removed. If you look down the venturi with the choke open you can see a brass collar protruding up into the venturi by what looks to be just under 10mm. Is this normal? The emulsion tube inserts inside this. Should this be tapped down flush? – what is it?
I seem to just be getting a ‘river’ of fuel in the carb and inlet manifold, which is not helping.. Any thoughts? Perhaps this is perfectly normal..
July 21, 2015 at 9:53 pm #13854
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI dont mind short journeys in the Landrover, I suppose its just a lot of “extra” things to do, compared with a car, Like knowing the stopping distance is totally different, and of course , being Paralysed from the waist down after sitting on those squab seats for an hour…. I know I know… I am turning into a Poofter. Odly, my next Big project in the barn is a Series 2A station Wagon LWB 12 seater with a 6 cylinder engine, … I dont know either!
July 21, 2015 at 1:57 pm #13851
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi Neil,
Sorry to be a pain, but is the orientation of the emulsion tube critical? I.e. Should the slot be in line with airflow?
Regards
July 21, 2015 at 10:46 am #13849
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi Neil,
This tube has not been out. However I have tried to remove it. Should it simple unscrew? The slot is OK, but perhaps the thread is damaged. As it wont come out.
I will investigate this first. 🙂
July 21, 2015 at 9:53 am #13847
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterOk. I am now suspecting this is a fueling issue.
Can someone advise how I remove and check the emulsion tube from the Amal 356? I’ve changed the jets, but seem to get a small flood of petrol coming out the carb inlet.. Suspect blocked emulsion tube..
July 20, 2015 at 10:08 pm #13845
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThank you Charlie, Just what i needed, I have a small 4 wheel trailer that is easier for my series one Landrover to pull, and it is rated at 500 KG so with plough and cultivator etc still within the limit, Since the Mercedes burst into flames when I tried to tow the other trailer, I now have to rely on the Landrover for towing…. It,s going to be a Long journey!
July 20, 2015 at 8:06 pm #13840
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi Neil,
Great. I will investigate.
In the meantime, I think I’ve had a bit of a lightbulb moment…!
Looking at some literature for the MG5, I think my ‘assumption’ of TDC may have been inaccurate.
I had a screwdriver down the plug hole and was claiming TDC when the screwdriver was at its upmost.. It has just occured to me, that what I thought was the piston may have indeed been the valve, hopefully meaning the timing chain is OK..?
July 20, 2015 at 7:10 pm #13838
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi,
The plug is sparking every time the magneto clicks. And every time 20deg before TDC. Is it possible that I have reassembled the magneto incorrectly? At TDC the teeth on the magneto dog where in the horizontal position.
What is the best procedure to taking the engine apart and checking that the timing chain hasn’t slipped?
This could be interesting…!
July 20, 2015 at 4:52 pm #13835
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterStill no luck getting it running. 🙁
I have a spark at the plug and fairly certain the fuel situation is OK.
I have noticed that the impulse is clicking between 20deg and 3deg before TDC. No matter how I adjust the magneto it would seem when turning over it clicks at 20deg BTDC. Am I doing something wrong? As the book states it should click at TDC for starting…
Perhaps the chain has slipped?
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