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October 18, 2015 at 4:28 pm #14869
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi are you still looking for a tine cover
October 18, 2015 at 10:13 am #14866
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterYeah i know! When i got it it had a seized 80s briggs & stratton on it. Dont know what happened to the origional unfortunately.
October 17, 2015 at 10:31 pm #14860
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi
If you are still looking for e clips.
I needed a tiny e clip for carburettor from a motor triple. I ended up at Maplins and bought a selection box of about 300 various sizes for about £3.50.
The clip I needed was only about 1.6mm, but it was the easiest way to get one, bearing in mind the cost of postage etc.October 11, 2015 at 12:29 pm #14821
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterOctober 7, 2015 at 5:08 pm #14787
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAfter refitting the piston, the cylinder barrel, cylinder head studs and head gasket were installed (Simar 0071). Note the orientation of the piston. The cylinder head needs to be aligned so the spark plug hole is towards the front (Simar 0072).
The cooling fan casing was prepared by installing the four M8 mounting studs (Simar 0073) and then fitted to the crankcase (Simar 0074). The cooling fan fits on the tapered crankshaft via a half moon key. A M18 x 1.5 nut holds the fan in place. The original nut was too corroded for reuse, so a replacement was obtained in the form of a wheel nut from a piece of agricultural machinery (Simar 0075). This also had the advantage of being a flanged nut, therefore I did not require the large washer which was used with the original nut. Note that in the photo the nut has yet to be tightened. The cylinder was filled with a cloth rag to lock the piston in place to allow the nut to be tightened.October 6, 2015 at 8:29 pm #14784
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterOctober 5, 2015 at 6:32 pm #14781
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterOctober 5, 2015 at 6:19 pm #14770
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThe crankcases were prepared for assembly by fitting new oil seals, 60mm O/D, 40mm I/D, 10mm wide for the rear crankcase and 47mm O/D, 30mm I/D, 10mm wide for the front crankcase (Simar 0061). The front crankcase also contains a double roller bearing (Simar 0062). As this bearing sits in a blind hole, it cannot be pressed out, so removal would require a special blind bearing removal tool which normally results in the bearing being damaged. As the bearing was in good order, I did not attempt to remove it. The rear crankcase contains a machined groove into which is inserted a felt washer (Simar 0063). A new paper gasket was fitted to the reverse gearbox casing (Simar 0064) and the rear crankcase secured into position on the three long M8 studs (Simar 0065). At the same time, the M8 x 50 bolts were fitted which secure the reverse gearbox to the main gearbox and rear crankcase to the reverse gearbox (Simar 0066). All were gradually tightened, in the same fashion as a cylinder head, to ensure an even pressure.
I did not take the engine crankshaft apart (Simar 0067), as reassembling would require a jig to ensure both front and rear sections of the crankshaft are perfectly concentric. The whole lot was slid into place, taking care not to damage the oil seal in the rear crankcase (Simar 0068). A distance washer is fitted up against the front flywheel before the front crankcase is installed (Simar 0069). The front crankcase is fixed to the rear crankcase by two M8 x 55 bolts. The other four vacant fixing holes visible in the photo also carry the front cooling fan casing. Four short M8 studs and paper gasket were then fitted ready for the cylinder barrel (Simar 0070).October 5, 2015 at 6:14 pm #14762
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThe handlebars are attached to the steering column via a locking handle and M12 nut (Simar 0054 & 55). Note that the M12 nut is larger across the flats than a normal plain M12 nut, as it fits into a hexagon recess at the handlebar pivot.
Before the engine could be fitted, there were a few items left to go in the reverse speed gearbox. The roller bearing for the end of the worm drive shaft went in first (Simar 0056), followed by the locking plunger for the reverse gear lever (Simar 0057). I did not fit the actual reverse gear lever at this stage, just in case I needed to manipulate the clutch when fitting the engine. To complete the worm drive shaft, a distance washer and thrust ring are fitted (Simar 0058), along with the clutch fork (Simar 0059). The clutch fork is held on the shaft via a washer and 4 x 20mm split pin (Simar 0060). When the legs of the split pin are bent over, they are very close to the reverse gearbox casing, so check the clutch operation a few times to make sure they don’t foul.October 5, 2015 at 2:30 pm #14757
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterFrame
October 5, 2015 at 2:25 pm #14756
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterthanks owen and yeah i did wounder filler i also wondered about leaving it and calling it “characteristics” ill see.
October 4, 2015 at 10:36 am #14742
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterhi all, to those that would like their anzani added to the register please could you pm me with
machine
number
condition
your name and location (county)
picture (optional)many thanks for you input
October 4, 2015 at 5:47 am #14740
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI wondered if it might be easier to use filler on the pitting. Keep up the good work.
October 3, 2015 at 5:52 pm #14738
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterOctober 3, 2015 at 3:43 pm #14736
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterFrame all done and primed this afternoon although i am thinking about investing in some high build primer as its quite pitted in areas.
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