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  • #39504
    wristpin
    Participant

    I’ve had poke around my collection of old manuals and the best I can come up with is the attached for a Mk2.
    Thinking about your broken spring theory, it could also be a seized shoe pivot or even a detached lining. keep us posted.

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    #39502
    wristpin
    Participant

    The last time I worked on an MT was about 40 years ago, but I think that you are on the right track. The drum may need a bit more persuasion.
    However, there is someone on this forum, Trusty220, who may be able to impart practical knowledge.

    #39499
    wristpin
    Participant

    These would be made from a special alloy as they are the wearing part of any cylinder and if you get it wrong it reflects badly on the whole machine

    The difference between the characteristics of various manufacturers’ blade materials is very apparent when regrinding cylinders, both in spark colour and sound. Two examples from domestic machines come to mind – Hayter Ambassador cylinders seemed to be hard and brittle and it was usual to find damage to the ends of the blades. On the other hand the material used in the Atco DeLuxe 14,17,and 20ā€ machines of the 1960s to 70s was very soft and quite badly buckled blades could be hammered straight and reground with no ill effect. Again noticeable with bottom blades, some being quite soft and responding to a quick skim while others needing a well dressed wheel and and lots of coolant.
    The bottom blades from Saxon Triples (now Baroness) used some rather special alloy and really needed a ā€œgreen wheelā€. In the day those blades were very expensive but outlasted those used by Ransomes several times over.
    Re-blading cylinders may be a thing of the past but a while ago I bought a very cheap Ransomes Marquis for ā€œSpares or repairsā€ as it had an ā€œunblemishedā€ grass box but interestingly it had a very good cutting cylinder in terms of lack of blade wear but the quality of the welding suggested a rather amateurish re-blading job.

    #39496
    wristpin
    Participant

    The old thing is slowly giving up its secrets. I presume that Allett have a record of the original buyer but is there any information of its life in service? Re the Ransomes identification letters on the spirals, is it dangerous to suggest that Allett may have used complete Ransomes cylinder ?

    #39480
    wristpin
    Participant

    Always a good idea when an engine has been standing and before you try to turn it over, to remove the plug and squirt in a good dose of lubricant, wait a while, then gently turn it a few degrees back and forth. If it moves feely, go for a gentle rotation, then refit the plug and proceed as normal. A good precaution against ring damage etc if a bit of rust has formed in the bore.
    ,

    #39473
    wristpin
    Participant

    I knew that I had a few Gutbrod / Motor Standard parts books etc but had forgotten where they were – blame either age or heat!
    Anyway if you post the model numbers that you have, I will see whether I can match them up.

    #39472
    wristpin
    Participant

    They were either re-badged or made under licence Gutbrods – hence the German connection.

    #39466
    wristpin
    Participant

    It really has been some time since I updated this story but I haven’t been slacking. The main piece of news is that I’ve had a minor disaster with the fibreglass lid; it had many dents and scratches which I was filling with stopper (a very fine filler used for small imperfections) but when I went to flat them back to blend them in with the rest it proved impossible without rupturing hundreds of microblisters. It looks like somebody in the past has repainted the lid with a high-build primer/filler; this was coloured orange. The green paint was applied over the top of the orange primer but because the surface preparation was not good enough at the time, the primer/filler has lifted in hundreds of blisters and lifted the green topcoat with it. What this meant in this case was that when I flatted it down it left lots of orange spots in the green paint- not a good look!

    That’s why those who do a proper job on fire glass bodied cars , Charge what they do. Looks like the chaps who last repaired it or even those who made it skimped / omitted the gel coat. Normal finishing products for steel bodywork are not usually suitable for fibre glass.

    #39456
    wristpin
    Participant

    Drive belt- transmission drive or cutter deck drive ?

    #39450
    wristpin
    Participant

    Toro did get back to me with the expected answer no idea

    Sign of the times, I’m afraid . Most manufacturers seem to rely on dealers and distributors to field and answer technical queries. The last time I needed some tech info from Hayter, I ended up talking to a very polite young man in Belgium with little product knowledge. A far cry from when Hayter had a roving tech in a high top van who called on dealers and conducted a mini service school on such matters as setting up a 21 or Osprey final drive and clutch.

    #39442
    wristpin
    Participant

    B&S Flo-Jet Carburettor problems
    The teflon washer referred to is part number 391413

    Had a bit of an issue retrieving this, so may be duplicated! Two better than none!

    • This reply was modified 3 years ago by wristpin.
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    #39440
    wristpin
    Participant

    I must have swept up a good few balls over the years but have never considered trying to save them so I can’t be much help there I’m afraid. Having been ā€œin the tradeā€ the total cost of a repair was a balance between the cost of a guaranteed to work new component, and the workshop charge out rate. In the case of the ratchet assemblies it was no contest. I appreciate that you are working ā€œpro bonoā€ for a friend but we had a saying that ā€œno one thanks you for a cheap fixā€ – if it works the saving is forgotten, if it fails, the attempted saving is forgotten also!
    Paint. Briggs do/did list aerosols of their various standard engine colours but I can’t remember anyone ever ordering one. For a tidy up of black engine components I’d suggest an aerosol can of Barbecue paint available from most diy stores.

    #39437
    wristpin
    Participant

    I wish i could sort the carb. as easily!

    A two piece flo-jet prone to flooding ? There’s a couple of wrinkles that may help.

    #39427
    wristpin
    Participant

    Someone told me that ordinary gasket paper would do. What do you think?

    Not sure that ā€œpaperā€ would do the job. Most packs of assorted gasket material contain some fairly tough stuff that resembles that used in oem gasket sets. What ever you use it will be worth ā€œfacing offā€ the cylinder head on a surface plate to remove any imperfections or even any warping. That will give your new gasket a fair chance of sealing.
    It occurs to me that there may be specific BMB information on a stationary engine forum or there may even be a specific user group on Facebook .

    #39419
    wristpin
    Participant

    Harrier 51 ?? Are you sure? Would have thought 48 or 56 – maybe. Can you find the machine ID number that pins it down to the exact model. Usually three digits and an alpha on a rectangular sticker on the opposite side of the body to the height adjuster. However those split corrugated rollers use the same ratchets for the 48 and 56. It’s usual to replace the ratchets as an assembly, not repair them. They can be time consuming to get apart and most commercial repairers resort to oxy acetylene or a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder. Hayter used to offer the two ratchets and the concertina dirt shield assembled on a shaft as one part number. In fact they offered complete roller assemblies as it was not unusual for the teeth on the rollers that engage the ratchets, to be worn away, and the whole assembly being floppy in the centre, even with new ratchets

    Labels just for examples

    • This reply was modified 3 years ago by wristpin.
Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 889 total)