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Drive belt- transmission drive or cutter deck drive ?

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Toro did get back to me with the expected answer no idea

Sign of the times, I’m afraid . Most manufacturers seem to rely on dealers and distributors to field and answer technical queries. The last time I needed some tech info from Hayter, I ended up talking to a very polite young man in Belgium with little product knowledge. A far cry from when Hayter had a roving tech in a high top van who called on dealers and conducted a mini service school on such matters as setting up a 21 or Osprey final drive and clutch.

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Just to update Toro did get back to me with the expected answer no idea but sprockets available from dealers!, never mind i have been offered a free assembly from a friend who owns a mower business but this will go back as was, thanks.

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B&S Flo-Jet Carburettor problems
The teflon washer referred to is part number 391413

Had a bit of an issue retrieving this, so may be duplicated! Two better than none!

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I must have swept up a good few balls over the years but have never considered trying to save them so I can’t be much help there I’m afraid. Having been “in the trade” the total cost of a repair was a balance between the cost of a guaranteed to work new component, and the workshop charge out rate. In the case of the ratchet assemblies it was no contest. I appreciate that you are working “pro bono” for a friend but we had a saying that “no one thanks you for a cheap fix” – if it works the saving is forgotten, if it fails, the attempted saving is forgotten also!
Paint. Briggs do/did list aerosols of their various standard engine colours but I can’t remember anyone ever ordering one. For a tidy up of black engine components I’d suggest an aerosol can of Barbecue paint available from most diy stores.

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I think i must be having a bad day Hayter not a 51 or 56 but a 48 am in touch with Toro’s at moment but as everyone states they don’t dismantle the ratchet assembly.

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I wish i could sort the carb. as easily!

A two piece flo-jet prone to flooding ? There’s a couple of wrinkles that may help.

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My mistake it’s a 56, as for the roller ratchet i know this is available as complete unit but as this is a free job for an old boy who has cancer and i only took it apart because of dirt i would still like to know how many balls were fitted it was easy enough to remove one side and after a gentle try gave up on other side and just washer it clean, i can’t beleive i have lost upwards of 20 balls so if i can’t find out i will put some in either side and see if it’s ok, what about the B/s black paint.

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Looks more like a handle to pull locking pin down on top of a barn door, pivot on lower hole, pin attached to curved part hole.

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Kohler engine on these common fault.

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Someone told me that ordinary gasket paper would do. What do you think?

Not sure that “paper” would do the job. Most packs of assorted gasket material contain some fairly tough stuff that resembles that used in oem gasket sets. What ever you use it will be worth “facing off” the cylinder head on a surface plate to remove any imperfections or even any warping. That will give your new gasket a fair chance of sealing.
It occurs to me that there may be specific BMB information on a stationary engine forum or there may even be a specific user group on Facebook .

[vhgmcbuddy]

Harrier 51 ?? Are you sure? Would have thought 48 or 56 – maybe. Can you find the machine ID number that pins it down to the exact model. Usually three digits and an alpha on a rectangular sticker on the opposite side of the body to the height adjuster. However those split corrugated rollers use the same ratchets for the 48 and 56. It’s usual to replace the ratchets as an assembly, not repair them. They can be time consuming to get apart and most commercial repairers resort to oxy acetylene or a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder. Hayter used to offer the two ratchets and the concertina dirt shield assembled on a shaft as one part number. In fact they offered complete roller assemblies as it was not unusual for the teeth on the rollers that engage the ratchets, to be worn away, and the whole assembly being floppy in the centre, even with new ratchets

Labels just for examples

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Does anyone what any idea what spark plug to buy for the machine? I have lost the original, so don’t have any numbers etc for reference. Were all the Hayter Hayterette plugs the same? Assuming it is 1965, does anyone have a link to a suitable plug?

Secondly – AndyFrost. Do you have a link for the Magnetron that you purchased?

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The peening hammer is used on the blade only when the sharpening has worked back on the width of the blade, at that point the blade gets thicker, by penning all you are doing is thinning the blade again.
Just remember sharpening a scythe blade is not like sharpening a knife blade, its putting a sharp edge which under close looking is a saw edge, and just remember its only the first 3 inches that cuts, the curve and the length of the blade is for removing the cut grass away from the next cut.

I for one use scythes every day in my working life

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The stallholder smiled and said ‘If you can identify that, I will reduce the price’, so I surprised him and said what it was, his surprise didn’t reduce it much though.
Some years ago I found an Edwardian postcard of a man in a field hitting his scythe with a hammer. That set me off on a journey of research and I discovered in the history of sharpening scythes that mowers frequently peened the edge of the blade to strenghthen the steel so it would continue to produce a sharp edge. Bear in mind there were no cigar shaped carburundum stones then and many mowers used a wooden riff smothered with grease and sand for regular scythe sharpening in the field.
Philip

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