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November 29, 2014 at 11:19 pm #10857
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThe 1970,s Landmaster “Lynx” 5hp rotavator used one of these engines.
November 29, 2014 at 11:16 pm #10856
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterJust to make sure that we are talking about the same machine, the 1473 had one vee belt and one fine tooth flat belt + the very prone to breakage hard black plastic handle bar grips.
If this is the machine that you have I can post a parts list but not sure about an operator’s manual. As far as I know there was never a workshop manual.
As far as the Briggs engine goes there is plenty of information available. The official BS manual is the”Single Cylinder L Head” manual available in hard copy for around £20 and in various places on the net.
https://www.ppeten.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1014November 29, 2014 at 6:43 pm #10854
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterQuite common on US made tillers and have also seen them fitted to snow blowers. Back in the 70s I worked on a Bolens rear engined rider with a vertical shaft Tecumseh that used the same system for reverse while the crank drove the machine forward through a 3-forward speed transmission.
In more recent times Ransomes have used both a Kubota and a Honda with cam drive to get the rpm low enough for their centrifugal clutch on the Mastiff. In that application the rotation of the engine is reversed so that the extended cam is running in same direction (counter clockwise) as a standard engine’s crank to avoid the need to re-engineer the transmission which remained essentially the same as when the Mastiff had first a JAP and then a Swiss made cast iron MAGNovember 29, 2014 at 5:29 pm #10841
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi everyone,
here is an update on progress, I managed to get my hands on a float and banjo from another carb I found on an auction site, I also found a good mag at a good price. The new plates came back and I managed to drill all the holes by clamping the old ones together with the new plates.
The centre on the other wheel had to be cut out as the felt washer would not of rubbed smoothly against the corroded wheel, I also had to make the back plate and top plate of the gear box as they had rusted away. I constructed a sand blaster a few years ago so its been quiet easy to clean and paint the parts, so if you live near by (Erith) you can always come and have a go at blasting some of your parts. Here are some more pictures.November 29, 2014 at 4:35 pm #10840
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi,The drive is an extension of the camshaft which turns in the opposite direction to the crankshaft pulley. When used, a rotavator doesn’t need a reverse gear in the gearbox, I believe some ariens (U.S.A) models used this system. regards Terrano.
November 29, 2014 at 11:31 am #10839
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi Charlie,
The no. on the cowling is: 60102-0374-76062403.
This will make it a 1976 won’t it?
Best Wishes, KeithNovember 29, 2014 at 7:45 am #10837
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks will-haggle, I’d seen this one which covers the belts and a tip about cutting set up but would like a complete manual if possible or one which covers the Briggs Stratton engine.
November 24, 2014 at 5:56 pm #10822
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks for the information Ive got two machines A4118 and c1209 which i would like to run a cutter bar on any history on these and belt sizes for both please .Thank you for your time. Regards Rob
November 24, 2014 at 1:06 pm #10819
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterMuch appreciated Rob, will have a go at making one, although i prefer the electric start!!
I do not plan on restoring this one, although i do plan on repairing it mechanically, the track roller bearings seem worn and theres some track rubbers missing.
The rear lifting arrangement would have been added in France and i believe it was so local implements could be used, however i do not know if it was fitted to the tractor from new or f someone was fed up of the manual lifting frame and fitted this to the back. The tractor would have been ordered without hydraulics, and just the standard PTO.
i have confirmed my suspicion of the clutch slipping, as i was able to put the tractor in gear and rev the engine without any sign of the engine bogging down when both brakes were applied.
November 23, 2014 at 10:49 pm #10813
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI managed to get the photos and dimensions for the starting handle. The dimensions are in the PDF file, let me know if you have any problems opening it.
Had a look at the site you linked to above and it looks to be the same manual. I must get in touch with Neil if he has an English version of the manual.
What are your plans for the Ransomes, restore and repaint or keep it in its working clothes? I opted to keep mine as it is.
Keep us updated on your progress.
RobNovember 23, 2014 at 10:12 pm #10812
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterLove the “safety footwear” the lady in the Bulldog advert is sporting. People clearly didn’t value their tootsies in those days !
November 23, 2014 at 9:32 am #10796
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterthanks for your replies will try and contact them to see what stregth they made it,
Any other imformation on this matter would be helpfulNovember 21, 2014 at 8:59 pm #10784
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterNovember 21, 2014 at 9:51 am #10781
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterOn a long run on Tarmac at a rally I think the nut on the flywheel worked loose allowing the flywheel to start moving around . The key way was damaged on the flywheel and had to be recut as well .
November 20, 2014 at 8:30 pm #10769
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAhh, bloody nightmare that! Just finished rebuilding my mg5 and mg6 engines, crank reground ect.
Hope this doesn’t happen to me! Must be rare though, not sure how it would cause it?
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