[vhgmcbuddy]

Ahh, bloody nightmare that! Just finished rebuilding my mg5 and mg6 engines, crank reground ect.

Hope this doesn’t happen to me! Must be rare though, not sure how it would cause it?

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s perfect, exactly what I needed thank you.

I thought it would be something like that and it may have been more obvious when the cable arrived, but the photos make it a lot easier.

It will be good to get the cable and lever sorted.

Thanks

Chris

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello Chris.
Here is a topic from the old forum, I looked it up for myself recently. Owen.

http://www.tractorbox.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6489

[vhgmcbuddy]

The broken crank

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Happier times ….

[vhgmcbuddy]

So, got a new crank shaft from Neil , along with new big end shells , roller bearings , seals and gaskets. Had to resize the conrod. Then the web on the crank would not fit into the crankcase. Got it in , and it was hitting off something inside ! Too big for my lathe so a mate took it down on his.
So here’s what it looks like tonight ….

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[vhgmcbuddy]

So
After a busy rally season , this happens …

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi
Wandr can you get in touch by phone or email (personal details removed for security, use pm for such information. Admin)
RE cutter bar please Terry.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Have you got it sparking on TDC with both valves closed?

What plug have you got, if it has a R in the part no then it has an internal resistor, it needs to be one without, also the plug cab must be 0ohms.

Have you got the air filter connected with oil in it as it may be drawing to much air, try putting your hand over the carb and turn it over you will feel it try to suck air in, that will draw file in and should fire at least once.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Dicky,

Either your engine is running far to fast on “tick over” or the clutch drum is rusty and/or clutch shoes are stuck but that’s unlikely

[vhgmcbuddy]

from dicky I am restoring a mg5 no idea of age as plate has been damaged where mumber should be.I need to check the centefugal clutch first as this was not allowing gear change on engine tick over could anyone help please

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for your reply. Yes the magneto has an impulse unit. I honestly thought we had a broken valve until i did a little research into it.

I have the ignition timing set to ignite as it says in the service guide, and the timing chain is set up correctly too, according to the maintenance manual we managed to find.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Rob,

The manual you have sounds like the ones on this site, https://www.einachser.org/holder/index.html

Unfortunate I can’t read them.

I have a book coming from Neil on the 600L that he is copying for me.

Engine started A lot better with the knob pulled out,

Need to replace the throttle cable as the throttle has to be a 90 degrees to the steering lever, it is stretched badly, so I may not be a hiving full throttle, I was too scared of over revving the engine, but will give it a try once the cable is replaced.

Thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ll take some photos and measurements of the starting handle when I’m next at my fathers where I store my machines. It will probably be Friday or Saturday.

I have a PDF of the engine manual, only problem is it is in French. It is over 35 MB in size so I’ll have to check to see if there is any limit to the size of email attachments I can send.

By choke do you mean the knob that I have circled in red on the attached page from the manual?
If so, first open the throttle about half way and then pull the knob out, with the throttle opened it should stay out and will only go back in when the engine starts. I wish my engine had electric start as it takes quite some effort to pull it up over compression.

I thought the clutch on my MG40 was slipping as well, I think it was in my post on the old forum where I mentioned this. I found just as you describe that if you pulled one of the steering levers in either 2nd or 3rd the crawler would just stop. I didn’t notice this at first as all my driving had been done on loose stones where turning was easy. I pulled the engine and found the clutch to still have plenty of wear left. I have found that you have to open the throttle fairly close to full to be able to turn while in 2nd or 3rd gear. This type of two stroke diesel does seem quite loud when they are running, as this was the first engine of this type that I’ve owned I think at first I was going more by the engine noise and just not opening the throttle enough.
At the start of this year we used the MG40 to pull out some roots and stumps from an area we were clearing. While chained to a stubborn stump the MG40 was brought to a halt with the tracks still turning thus clearing any worries that I had about the clutch slipping.

Hope that helps
Rob

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Many mower repairers will have a collection of coils with in built magnetron units taken from scrap machines. Around here you can pick one up for for a tenner or so. Problem solved without having to fiddle about un-soldering and re-soldering the early style clip on magnetrons.
Not a Stoic expert but I recollect that the push machines were either 3.5hp of 5hp – the fives being fairly obviously a bigger lump – and the power drive ones were 4hp.

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