[joegrgraham]

I presume the gear visible in the picture isnt supposed to have teeth that shape?

This sorry fiasco does however speak volumes about the quality if Geo’ Monro’s paint shop, from the condition of the outside, no one would suspect that the machine has clearly lived in a ditch for some time.

Charlie, I received then manual, and the offer of advice, many thanks.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

Another inspection in the cold light of day, and it doesnt look any better!.
Took the spanners to it tonight, the engine refused to budge, so I decided to remove the gearbox top………take a look at the picture to see what I found.
Aside from a vile, rusty, gungy, water-filled mess, the bracket that hold the clutch cable is broken off.

Oh bu**er!.

Question now is, do I put it down to experience and chuck it in the bin, or is this the beginning of a long, expensive restoration………

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[joegrgraham]

So tonight I have given my ‘prize’ some closer inspection.

It is serial number 334603, the rotors turn when the engine is turned and……………… nope, thats all the good bits I can find.

No spark, no compression, magneto backplate is broken, exhaust rotten, gearbox full of water, wont engage gears, both tyres cream-crackered, cables inoperative………don’t you just love impulse bids!!

Amazingly, most of the paint is intact, and the rotor cover isn’t rotten!.

Charlie, I have sent you a PM, and James, I couldn’t agree more about the weak spot, but why spend £150 on a good one when you can spend £50 on a piece of c*** and then another £200 getting it to work!

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

The whole assembly came apart almost disappointingly easily!
The whole freewheel assembly is a big rusty mess, so i’ve left it to soak for the weekend, then next week I’ll try and pull it apart and see whats what.
Thanks for the help Gents.

[joegrgraham]

Thank you Gents,

Wristpin, pushing/pulling the mower with engine stopped and drive engaged resulted in only one roller half constantly locked, regardless of direction of travel.

And Stuart, one roller was impossible to stop, the other one never gets any drive.

So I think ’tis cream-crackered!. It appears that one freewheel has seized up and the other has broken loose. Does this sound about right to you?.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

The drive mechanism itself appears to be working, it is impossible to stop the roller turning whilst drive is engaged. The problem is with excessive ‘wheelspin’. I thought it may have been due to the level of wear in the rollers, so I have just replaced them, but found no improvement.
Whilst inside the roller assembly, on the main shaft are two sprockets, the owners book calls them ‘roller freewheel’, it appears that it is these that transmit the drive from the shaft to the roller. I noticed that one is fixed to the shaft and one is not, hence the drive to only one half of the roller assembly. Is this correct?

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

PM sent.

[joegrgraham]

Great video, but who got the job of catching the Fordson???

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

Hi Dan, seasons greetings to you.
Thanks for sharing all your pics, its really interesting to see some different machines. I had to chuckle about how your collection snow-balled! we’re all the same!.
That Allis B looks nice, its an early american one isn’t it? and was that a model U i spotted in the background?. How many tractors do you have?.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

Brilliant, thank you!

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

The tyres were ballasted with water to add weight as you suggested. Just the same as attaching wheel weights.
I had an Allis B that had ballasted rear wheels and it made them bl**dy heavy! and also very awkward to man-handle.
Back in the day, it would usually be done with Calcium Chloride for its anti-freeze properties, unfortunately it rotted the rims and when you drained it out, it would kill everything that it touched (so dont drain a wheel on the lawn!!).
Filling the tyres with water does the job, but in the long run its better to get some proper wheel weights.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

The bushes are available from http://www.robush.co.uk part number RB3752.

The sizes are 3/8” I/D, 13/16″ O/D, 3/4″ outside length and 7/8″ inside length.
I got mine from a local bearing supplier who got them through the above company, not cheap, but at least they are available.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

Hi Joey,
I have the same engine on my Trusty and had the same problem.
I’m afraid it is probably the coil that is kaput, but it would be worth getting it tested first, just to make sure.
You cannot get new coils for the briggs engine, but they can be re-wound. Private message me if you want contact details for magneto rebuilds.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

Looks like a good day out. Where is this?.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

Agree with will-haggle, the sprayer is a Bean.
The ‘Allis Chalmers crawler’ is actual an Oliver/Cletrac and the ‘David Brown’ with the land girls is an Allis Chalmers B with an unusual rear wheel modification.
Sorry, just nit-picking! some very nice pictures all the same, makes you realize how easy we have it these days.
Thanks for sharing Charlie.

Joe.

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