[joegrgraham]

Hi Robert,
It looks like you’ve got the briggs flo-jet carb on there.
I had very similar problems with my briggs engined Trusty.
The flo-jet is a good carb when it is all new and shiny, but they become very temperamental when they are a bit worn.
I suggest you strip the carb, check the float height, it should sit parallel with the top, and then treat it to new needles etc. The kits are available from the US on a certain auction site for not too much money.
Also, check the fuel flow to the carb, may be a bit of a blockage somewhere.

Hope this helps,

Joe

[joegrgraham]

Some good videos there, thanks guys.
Myosotis, your ground looks a lot lighter than mine! what depth did you plant the seed at?.
I may give the mustard a try.

[joegrgraham]

Funny you should say that Owen, I was having the same conversation the other day about the fruit and berries, I think this winter may have teeth and claws!. It cant be worse than last year, I only had to scrape the windscreen a half dozen times, and I’m in a frost-bottom.
I think the lack of a winter may well explain the slug trouble this year too.

[joegrgraham]

I’ve got wonderful Wiltshire clay (you can see how it’s packed up in the wheels) so I always have slug problems, but this year they have been a total menace!.
I grew Desiree and Rooster spuds this year, the Desiree were a total disaster, about 60% have been damaged by slugs and the rest have scab!. The Rooster have avoided the scab, and have shown better slug resistance. I’m going to try Wilja and Sante next year, as they’re supposed to be slug resistant.
I managed to avoid Blight this year, Ive always been ruthless about destroying affected tops at the first sign.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

We nearly had a catastrophe with the Raspberries at the far end!, and I had to do a few passes to get them all as it kept re-burying them, it also sliced a few, but I think they were planted a bit too deep to begin with!
Unfortunatly, I’ve lost over half the crop due to slug damage.

Joe

[joegrgraham]

I’d just like to second Charlies comments.
Despite being local, this year was the first year I had attended, and it was a cracking show.
I read about it being the last one in Vintage Spirit magazine last week, and it is a real shame. I much prefer the smaller local shows to the big commercial one.
Many Thanks to all who were involved in the show.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

Thanks Geoff,
That was pretty much how I’d guessed it worked, just needed some confirmation before I got too brutal with!. It will be off to the forge next week to free off a couple of the more stubborn pieces!.
Unfortunately, it is a bit rougher than I originally thought, I’ve had to cut pretty much every bolt, so I think this one will have to get a paint job. What is the correct shade of green? I’ve got a tin of Lister green which doesn’t look too far off others I’ve seen.

Joe

[joegrgraham]

Thanks for the link Charlie, will have a look. I’ve put up a pic to show it in context, easier than trying to explain.
The shoulder is round, not square, to allow the ally part to pivot as the screw is wound up and down.

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[joegrgraham]

Here’s a pic of the bolt.

Joe

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[joegrgraham]

Another option may be to get hold of a couple of old scaffold planks or strips of thick ply-wood that you can put on the trailer deck so the irons don’t damage the trailer floor.

[joegrgraham]

Trying a photo.

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[joegrgraham]

Sorry, my bad! just realised the video was too big! I’ll try and put a photo up later.

[joegrgraham]

Sean,
Most of the parts are to lock the drawbar into a fixed position.
item 6 is the pin that holds 5 to the main coupling.
8 goes through one of the two holes in the top of 5
16, i think, goes through the end of 12 to hold it to 5. the pin you are missing.
Don’t know where 17 goes.
19 is the pin that goes through the slot in the end of 4 to hold the implement on the coupling.
Don’t know on 21 and 22.
The T shaped bit that is broken off of 15 is needed as it runs in the L shaped slot in 12.

I hope some of that makes sense!
the pics aren’t the best as I took them with my phone in a dingy shed!
Hope it helps though,

Joe

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[joegrgraham]

Hi Rich,
I cant help you with the engine, but when it comes to perishing tyres, UV rays (sunlight) is the biggest culprit.
It would certainly be better to keep the tyres inside, especially the original ones as they will already be a little more fragile.
In an ideal world, it isn’t really good to leave any machine outside in the elements, just look how quickly the brake discs on your car rust if you haven’t used it for a few days.

Joe.

[joegrgraham]

At least it’ll save me going to WH Smiths to read the F & HE section! I stopped buying the magazine a while back as it had got far too gimmicky and samey, there are tractors other than Masseys and David Browns!.

Joe.

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