[wristpin]

Thanks, however it seems that inflation has caught up with belt prices, but Simply Bearings have supplied an A26 for just over a fiver and the machine is up and running.
While on the Howard theme does anyone have any info’ on the Dragon?
Also I have seen mention on this forum of a company in Cambridgeshire that acquired the Howard brand from Dowdswell but I can neither recall it nor find the reference – can anyone help?

[wristpin]

Well, that’s progress; sometimes with this old kit “needs must” has to take presidence over “good practice”!
As Charlie says, Villiers coils are a known issue but in fairness, if it is original, it is probably over 50 years old !
Go for a new or rewound coil and not a “new old stock” one that may have hidden internal corrosion. As well as Meetens, Villiers Services and Villiers Parts are both good sources but when comparing prices be aware that some include vat and some don’t. For the sake of another £10/12 a new condenser could save a lot of hassle.

[wristpin]

I’ve found another reference that says A26 for machines with a Villiers four-stroke. Can anyone confirm this?

[wristpin]

What are the 4 nuts around the circumference of the vaned flywheel for?

If I’m on the same track, they are the ones that hold the ring of cooling fins to the flywheel. Those fins are not very strong so don’t be tempted to try and lock the flywheel using them!!
Before attacking that centre bolt with a grinder just make sure that you can lay your hands on a suitable replacement. Might be better to get a nut welded to it.

[wristpin]

Presume that the engine is a Kohler with the points in a small metal “can” at the back of the engine and the condenser mounted beside it?
Would expect to see a wire coming from the magneto coils under the flywheel to the points and a wire from the condenser to that same terminal. If you have a handlebar mounted on/off switch with two terminals, one will have a wire to a suitable earthing point and the other a wire down to the back of the engine (the kill wire) to the terminal on the points or maybe to the condenser – just depends how it was wired or has been altered over the years.
With the on/off switch in the run (open circuit) position the ignition will operate but in the stop position (switch closed) the points and condenser will be earthed and the spark killed.

[wristpin]

Not wishing to be facetious but perhaps the answer is don’t !
Received wisdom is that making them all bright and shiny detracts from both their value and collectibility .
But each to his own!

[wristpin]

Chris, no sign of a pm from you or anyone else for that matter, but it was “advertised” on another forum and found a home within minutes !

[wristpin]

In the absence of the real thing, if you can pick up a Saxon or SCH trailer for the right money you’ll be more than half way there and unless you already have steel and wheels etc probably won’t cost any more.
As far as the log splitter goes are you thinking hydraulic or mechanical?

[wristpin]

If the engine rotation is counter clockwise when viewed from the impeller I would expect the nut to have a conventional right hand thread.
Ray’s suggestion that the two holes are for a puller (any sign of a thread in them?) would imply that it is either keyed to a parallel shaft or may be on a taper.
I suppose that in the absence of a parts list, there is the possibility that the “nut” could be part of the impeller and the whole lot screwed onto the shaft against a shoulder. Seem to recall an Alcon pump with that configuration .

[wristpin]

While you may well be able to source some parts from within the UK, the majority seem to be on US auction sites.

[wristpin]

Some info on Villiers Lightweights both horizontal and vertical crank.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/svf8wqus9vdo5zl/Villiers%20lightweights0001.pdf

[wristpin]

I will do a bit of research on the manufacturing period for your machine.
I acquired the manual that I scanned in around 1979 or 80 when a large local dealership was closing down and all their manuals were dumped in a heap in a corner of the workshop. A deal was done with the liquidator’s man on site before a two day auction of stock and equipment. I had an Escort estate at the time and it was two trips with the seats down and headlights pointing skywards!
Anyway, back to the subject. The manual was well used and grubby in 79 and makes reference to Mk2s which suggests that the model may have been around in the 60s or even earlier.

[wristpin]

Can’t argue with that-always assuming that the sticker is original!
Personally I would still go for SAE30 in a worn engine of that age.
The starter pulley looks as though it is home made – is it made from wood? We used to see a few 14s and 16s in the late 70s and early 80s and I remember that the recoil starters seemed to be a bit fragile but maybe only because the engines were worn and the starters were taking a pasting!

[wristpin]

I’d go for a straight 30 or even 40. Multi grades were not around when that engine was made. Quite probably ring and or valve guide wear but a clean of the crankcase/valve chest breather may help and is free!

[wristpin]

Yes, I’ve got a parts list for the engine and I will scan and post a Dropbox link to it later. May be useful to talk to Paul at Meetens.

Here’s the link. The original is a bit grubby!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tk9cf88kskzg1pv/Ransomes%2014%20Villiers%2065cc0001.pdf

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