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May 31, 2014 at 10:00 am #8470
wristpin
ParticipantThe colour of the engine would suggest that it is not the one that it left the factory with so it’s build date code will not be reliable for dating the rest of the machine when it comes to obtaining parts.
This link may be of interest
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v68bbz911792701/Merry%20Tiller%20Brochure0001.pdf
May 31, 2014 at 9:38 am #8469wristpin
ParticipantUsed to look after one of the original Horwools before it was reinvented as the Nickerson. All the time it worked it did a good job but eventually the lack of essential parts such as universal joints to drive the cutter units killed it. We investigated modifying off the shelf U/Js but the owner decided otherwise! From memory I think that we found that Bedford CF van steering column U/Js were a possible option.
As an aside, the younger generation probably have little idea of how easy such searches are now compared with even the 80s when it was word of mouth or time spent in the Public Library thumbing through trade directories followed by numerous phone calls – some still via the operator!May 25, 2014 at 8:30 pm #8301wristpin
ParticipantThis link written by a Briggs and Stratton Master Service Technician (now retired) tells you all that you need to know about Flow Jets. Far better advice than most of the YouTube chancers!
http://www.perr.com/tip9.htmlCouldn’t find my image of a jet removal screwdriver earlier but here it is. That’s not a Briggs jet.
May 25, 2014 at 11:06 am #8282wristpin
ParticipantWhat’s missing is the governor spring which maintains the equilibrium between the throttle lever/cable that is trying to increase the speed and the internal governor mechanism that is trying to decrease it. Result, the governed speed.
You may be able to obtain the correct spring (Meetens ?) or find one that seems to achieve a safe and workable speed.May 25, 2014 at 8:23 am #8276wristpin
ParticipantAs Charlie says, two piece Flo Jet. Just Google Briggs 803020153 and you’ll get an illustrated parts list. Cannot over emphasise the need to remove the angled jet (Briggs call it a nozzle) before trying to separate the two parts of the carb.
It’s situated behind the mixture adjuster that looks like a fuel tap sticking out of the bowl at an angle.
For safe removal of the nozzle you need the correct tool or a good fitting parallel sided screwdriver. An old screwdriver ground down for the purpose will be a useful addition to the tool box!May 22, 2014 at 12:31 pm #8215wristpin
ParticipantThink that your options are an ethanol tolerant tank sealer or, if the tank is reasonably sound, a liquid rust converter.
A further option, particularly if it is only the lower segment that is rusty, is to keep the tank reasonably full with stabilised fuel to exclude air from the affected area.May 21, 2014 at 9:07 pm #8209wristpin
ParticipantHi, I have had trouble with flooding on Briggs flo jet carb on my Merry Tiller, spent a lot of time fiddling with no success. In the end I fitted a new carb kit end of trouble.The float position on my carb is level with the carb body, needle just seating.
More often than not the problem with these carbs is not the needle and seat but internal leakage between the nozzle and the carb body. The nozzle seat can be lapped using a modified slave nozzle and the seal between the nozzle and carb body can be restored using the teflon washer from the 391413 Pulsa-jet repair kit.
May 18, 2014 at 7:59 pm #8158wristpin
ParticipantDifficult to tell from your images but my immediate thought is front wheel weights for a garden tractor with a rear mounted grass collector.
May 17, 2014 at 9:50 am #8125wristpin
ParticipantAssuming that it has a Kohler engine, before modifying anything check that the valves and valve seats are in good condition. Remove the valves to inspect them and if necessary get them re-faced and the seats skimmed. Otherwise just lap them in and carefully set the clearances.
I had one kohler that led me a merry dace, dying when the throttle was opened – cured by closing the points a couple of thou from the recommended setting. That tip courtesy of Paul at Meetens many years ago.May 16, 2014 at 10:56 pm #8121wristpin
ParticipantInteresting to see that Villiers Parts advertise a “Howard friction plate” (300 clutch?) and Howard drive belts. The belt illustrated is marked “Howard Rotovator” in a fairly crude way so I’m guessing that it’s not a genuine Howard part!
May 16, 2014 at 10:49 pm #8120wristpin
ParticipantThink that you will find that Sisis are now owned by Howardson Engineering who also own the Dennis lawnmower brand.
SISIS Machinery, Ashbourne Road, Kirk Langley, Derbyshire DE6 4NJ England
Tel: +44 (0)1332 824 777 Fax: +44 (0)1332 824 525
Email: info@sisis.comMay 15, 2014 at 10:54 am #8077wristpin
ParticipantWell said, and let’s hope that our editor knows that Howard rotary cultivators are RotAvAtors and not RotOvators !!
May 14, 2014 at 7:55 pm #8068wristpin
ParticipantHave I missed something but where does JLO come in to it?
May 13, 2014 at 9:32 am #8039wristpin
Participant“To test for a spark you can disconnect the wire and put some tape over the exposed end; that will rule out the stop wire or it’s mounting.”
OK as far as it goes but I have known the kill wire to be earthing out at some point along its length so to be 100% sure, disconnect it from the coil. If you do have to remove the flywheel don’t be tempted to smack the end of the crank with a steel hammer as the slightest bit of distortion or swelling of the part that the starter clutch runs on will cause problems. Preferably don’t hit it at all but if “needs must” use a copper hammer.
May 8, 2014 at 9:53 pm #7975wristpin
ParticipantThat’s the one – the sugar beet harvester people!
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