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  • #37183
    wristpin
    Participant

    I too bought a B&D drill from Argos, a bit later 2-speed hammer which is still in use with a Shapercraft flexible drive mainly used for rust and paint removal. Way before B&D became known for their DIY drills etc they manufactured and supplied professional garage maintenance equipment such as the valve refacing machines that were to be found in every village garage – and my workshop today.
    The Shapercraft router cutters etc were sold by EP Barrus from their original north London, Brunel Road premises before their move to Bicester. What’s less well known is that they used to import and distribute US made garage equipment, crank grinders, boring bars and valve refacing equipment, from their premises on the Gosvenor Embankment in central London.
    My other vintage drill is a Wolf Safetymaster which, I believe was the first Double Insulated DIY drill sold in the UK. I traded in a Wolf Cub drill in the early 50s to buy the Safetymaster complete with stand, reduction gearbox and vice. It still gets occasional use.

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    #37180
    wristpin
    Participant

    are wired up correctly some are 12v in series others wired to give 24v.

    Two 12v in series do give 24v , possibly some were in parallel still giving 12v but with a greater capacity.
    The early Batricars were a heavy and quite crude old beasts using what components were available and I’m thinking that they might have used standard car batteries. My Dad had a bright yellow one back in the 70s and I only threw away the owner’s manual just before this thread started.

    #37179
    wristpin
    Participant

    Yes, Tecnamotor was the name given to the Tecumseh Fiat cooperative but when Tecumseh pulled the plug on engine production, the UK operation that had started as Aspera Motors in the 60s, traded as Tecumseh UK. It is perhaps not widely known in the UK that the other side of Tecumseh’s business was, and still is, air conditioning and refrigeration equipment. Kohler is another company mainly known in the UK as an engine manufacturer but are also big in bathroom and sanitary ware. An in house derogatory joke amongst some staff at Briggs and Stratton was that they P****d on Kohler daily.

    #37155
    wristpin
    Participant

    Have you ever used vinegar or the off the shelf methods?

    I usually use electrolysis. It removes loose rust and gunge and neutralises anything remaining in nooks and crannies. It’s also non destructive to soldered joints etc.

    #37096
    wristpin
    Participant
    #37092
    wristpin
    Participant

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/8wghffpqd1c5lqg/Aspera%20HTB0001.pdf?dl=0
    or get some 1/4 UNC studding (threaded rod) and nuts and make your own.

    #37067
    wristpin
    Participant

    There were two other petrol stations in Tenterden High High Street and they both had those swing out gantries. One was National Benzol , the other I cant remember. Those were the days when nearly every village had a repair garage and a pump or two . Cars needed regular application of grease to multiple points every couple of thousand miles and a de-coke every ten thousand. When I first started buying my own petrol it was 4 shillings and 11d a Gallon . Less than 25p ! 4 gallons for less than ÂŁ1.00

    #37060
    wristpin
    Participant

    Yes, I have jpeg images but for some reason when I try to load them I’m getting

    The web page at https://vhgmc.co.uk/forums/topic/something-for-the-workshop-2/ might be temporarily down or it may have moved permanently to a new web address.

    I’ll try putting them into Dropbox

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/159zop9nkjo7ekd/AAD8I3RhfP_b6Dx4OigfumRra?dl=0

    #37058
    wristpin
    Participant

    Henry Cole making it into a drinks cabinet!

    Yes, the current crop of TV restoration programmes have a lot to answer for. Unless you’re a sand blaster and powder coater. I’ve only recently discovered that that the shop in which my late business partner and I started our Garden Machinery business had the second petrol pump to be installed in Kent. Now that would be a find.

    #37022
    wristpin
    Participant

    Despite Aspera bing Italian the original design was by Tecumseh from the USA. If you post the engine model number, it should be possible to give you an accurate part description but for now I’m guessing 1/4” UNC x 3/4” long

    #37019
    wristpin
    Participant

    Unless I wanted it for some vital part missing from a better example , I’d pass!

    #37018
    wristpin
    Participant

    I have seen on an auction site some 3″ ally aftermarket ones that are bored correctly , but the major should be pressed or turned steel. on top of that there would be the calculation for the new correct belt length.

    The joys of working on old kit. You need a pulley , material is probably irrelevant but the belt will need to be a bit slacker than you may imagine. If it is not there the keeper or keepers is/are essential to get the belt to release its grip on the front pulley when the clutch jockey pulley is released.
    Get the nearest pulley that you can and work from there.

    #37017
    wristpin
    Participant

    thanks wristpin i got that but when i search on b/s site its got the spring but not the rod and the spring dont look right in the picture if i have correct numbers maybe i can look on ebay

    I don’t quite follow what you are saying. Is it that you can’t find the parts on the IPL or that having found them you can’t find them in the BS parts list. If the latter they are possibly obsolete. The problem with eBay for Briggs stuff is that the majority of obsolete parts hits are from the USA with heavy postage charges and all the hassle of Duty, Clearance and VAT. If you’ve identified the part numbers, try Jon Cruse at the Hailsham Mower Centre; he’s recently got me out of trouble with an obsolete BS Governor spring for a Hayterette.

    Edit. I’ve had a look at the IPL and think that I can see the parts that I would describe as a Governor spring and rod. Possibly not on the page that you might expect.

    #37016
    wristpin
    Participant

    This is achieved by pulling out choke by app 3/8 ins and then tightening carb

    Good that it’s up and running . You don’t mention the engine make or model but if it’s Briggs the recommendation is usually that the choke valve / butterfly is moved over centre.

    #37007
    wristpin
    Participant
Viewing 15 posts - 226 through 240 (of 889 total)