[vhgmcbuddy]

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Ah Success the Flywheel can away with a few taps with the copper mallet . Coil is dated 1973 so is I thing original . Simple multi meter connected from the plug lead to the wire that runs to the Condenser does show some resistance but not sure what I am looking at Having got it all apart a new coil may be a wise investment. The Coil part number is 232901 or 238059 Kohler part 47-755-20 10mm square hole 27 mm approx high and around 41mm across I think looking at the replacements on the auction site, the one lead to the condenser will need to be lengthened, looks like some did this on mine originally too ! Kohler price is a staggering £169.00 The pattern is £29.00 Guess which I will fit . Yeap probably Chinese but hell hopefully will be mobile !!!

Hey thanks for the help all I need now is to work out how to get to the drop box on here

Have a great weekend and thank you

[vhgmcbuddy]

im in the new forest, i have Henderson bearings in Ringwood and bsl in Southampton..the real problem I have is the belts were not the correct ones to start with, I don’t think they are wide enough…i.e they maybe the wrong section..can any bolens owner measure across the wide bit of the main drive belt please? Both my drive belts appear to be the same length, is this correct? Do the americans use a different u.s section to us? thanks steve

[vhgmcbuddy]

Stupid question Does the puller you suggest need to have a thread hole and bolt in the middle to bare on the crank rather like a 3 legged puller would ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I would say the plough is fine to use on your allotment . The tiller extensions should be OK too , of course, it depends on the condition of the engine . The 350 is a Howard and they are well made compared to a lot of machines . I have been looking for some Spade lug type wheels for mine, as this would help with ploughing . You will need to try it out , and adjust the plough to suit your soil. Your planned use is absolutely what the machine was designed for Watch out for buried treasure if you have recently taken on the allotment. If the plough hits something buried the machine will kick and that hurts. My Howard has only tried to kill me twice so far so be warned !!

Have fun and stay safe .

[vhgmcbuddy]

Wristspin Thanks for the advice

I will make up a puller and try what you have suggested . My belief is the local machinery shop had a hydraulic puller .

Spark with the points cover removed . OK so cover is off, if I turn the engine over , there should be a spark at the points ? IE they should be live . I did disconnect the kill switch at the Condenser, just to eliminate and track to earth in that one no joy there . Like I said , I have swapped the condenser .

Thanks again

[vhgmcbuddy]

Local motor factors will only stock set sizes for vechiles, best bet will be a bearing or drive trian speclist. Where abouts in the country are you? Theres a very good company near me in hull,

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi moggyjim

You will need to take off the Rotors and there should be a little piece of treadded bar with two metal caps on tha fits oner th splines on the rotor drive one the rotors are gone This is important to stop the dirt getting inside the chaincase and it also preserves the seals Simple enough to make if you don’t have one . There should be a plough hitch that fits onto the Chain case and this is what the Plough bolts to . There should also be a t least one wheel extension which you fit to the right hand wheel viewed from the back of the machine , and there should be a piece of box section that fits on the front of the machine and a very heavy counter weight to fit on to the box section. You also need the coupling that fits the plough to the hitch as this allows you to adjust the plough

Don’t be too eager , this will not turn over virgin ground like a Trusty !!! It works OK on garden or allotment but if you plan to use it to turn a grass area , lawn what have you into ploughed soil buy a bigger machine . I have the front weight and wheel weights on mine and it still struggles for grip Select the lowest gear too, Small engine pulley to largest machine pulley . And eat a whole box of Weetabix before you start !!

Martin

[vhgmcbuddy]

thanks stew, I tried the local motor factors and they nearly got it right, Henderson bearings on Monday, the trouble is they are not that easy to change, so I relly need to get the correct ones first time round…

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve come up against them on numerous occasions so I would say that they aren’t home made. But going through all my manuals I’ve not yet found any reference to them.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Could the solid centre component allow better weight support / distribution when using equipment on soft ground e.g. Ruts formed by wheel tyres aren’t so deep in soft ground?

Keith

[vhgmcbuddy]

If you can get the distance centre to centre of the shafts and the diameters of the two pulleys, most bearing specialists will be able to give you the correct belt. And type. Will most probably be a spz v belt.

Hope this helps

[vhgmcbuddy]

Il will have a look where abouts will it be? There is a number on the o/s of engine block. 1964. But will have another look if you can point me in the rigth place. Is there anyway of finding any history on it?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello everyone sorry to intrupt i have been having a play with my mg5 after winter and have found the serial nu of 3512 wonder if anyone could give me some in on it?

[vhgmcbuddy]

What would you suggest my next move is m8 ?

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