[vhgmcbuddy]

All running now. Amazingly it sat in a field under a tree for probably 10 years and it started 2nd pull and runs sweet as anything. Blades spin and stop as they should, drive works great as well. Just the new rollers to drill out, varnish and fit. Then decide if I go the whole hog and paint it or leave it as is. Either way, it will go to work now and hopefully last a few more years.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Wristpin Sir you are a genius !! Decided to have a look today and did exactly as you said. The plate was rusted on the friction caps so had to clean all that up too. The grub screw snapped but got a cap head in there instead of. Built it back up and adjusted the ball in further and all works as it should ! Can now roll the mower about which is a huge relief on my back. Got to go turn some new ash rollers now and then attack the carb.

Thank you so much for your help….without you it was going in the skip 😁

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s brilliant !
I’ll be onto it over the weekend and fingers crossed I will sort it with your advice.
Really appreciate you taking the time to write such a comprehensive post 👍

[vhgmcbuddy]

A lot easier to sort with the metal in front of one but referring to the parts illustration that I’ve already posted, try the following.
I doubt if the pin (push rod 29) is worn enough to cause your problem but remove the pressure plate (42) and push the pin right through the clutch shaft (32) taking care not to loose the ball bearing (40) – always assuming that it is not missing. If it is missing it’s probably the cause of your problem. Clean any rust and dried grease from the bore of the shaft, lubricate and reassemble the pin and ball. If the end of the pin is worn concave where it bears on the ball, just reverse it. With it all reassembled pull up and lock the handle bar clutch lever and then check that the pressure plate is releasing the sprocket(35)from the clutch body(34). If it’s not. Release the locknut (47) and screw in the adjusting grub screw (46) until it just lifts the pressure plate from the sprocket and that the sprocket is free from the body. With the handle bar clutch lever released and the pressure plate clamping onto the sprocket, there should be a little slack in the cable.
Another possible issue is that the handlebar lever locking latch is worn and although the clutch is releasing when the lever is squeezed bu hand, when your hand is released the locking latch is not holding the clutch fully disengaged.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Wristpin not sure if you can help with this. I’ve fitted a new clutch cable that Jon in Hailsham made up for me, but when I’ve shortened it as far as the threaded barrel will allow, it’s not pulling up far enough to pull the arm against the pin that was seized. Can’t move the mower cos everything is locked up and won’t rotate. Any idea if the pin is worn and now not long enough to be pushed on by the clutch arm or pin is still slightly seized and not poking out far enough or maybe the arm is worn and not wide enough to engage with the pin? Tried googling what the pin length should be but nothing comes up using Webb’s old part numbers. Sorry long question, but at the mo I’m stumped as to what to next ! Cheers.

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s a good suggestion, hadn’t thought to widen my search to other similar name brands! Sometimes it’s just using the right words in a search. Even your use of the simple descriptive ‘hex bar’ for the rotar/wheels axle makes things easier!!
It’s like those linchpin’s you get on rotavators, with the rounded pins that clip in, noticed a few broken, one rótar not turning, and again it’s the correct technical term needed to help find them.
I’ll look into the Merry Tiller avenue of research, who knows what it might throw up. Even a few tools for the hitch. Thanks again

[vhgmcbuddy]

Nice one thank you.
Managed to get the pin free and it now moves the gear plate back and forth as it should 😁

Just gotta get it started now.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for reaching replying to my call for help and information Hortiman. I’m not sure if I have made it as clear as I could, what I’m really looking for? The rotor drums you mention are for rotavating I take it? I have a set of them. It’s more a set of wheels that would fit on that sane hex bar, as you call it, to drive the machine from place to place that I’m looking for? I’m also toying with the idea, that with the pneumatic wheels I could also pull some small tools on the toolbar? This might not work, but the wheels would definitely be a help going across ground from shed to garden/field. The truth is I don’t use it much for actual rotavating, so I’m trying to give it a new lease of life… and if not maybe move it on, as I have a small Goldoni walking tractor to do the rotavating. But all your thoughts a suggestions welcome. Thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

This may help. The hand written notes were probably added about 20/25 years ago which was probably about the last time that I worked on one!

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi there i have sent you a private message

[vhgmcbuddy]

Done some research on this.Apart from cleaning the carb through again advised to check carb to fuel tank seal and “preload” diaphragm. This is achieved by pulling out choke by app 3/8 ins and then tightening carb to tank screws ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have a couple of Shay engines not complete for free
PM me

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi i need a new coil for my shay rotoscythe
did any of you know where i could find a new one

cheers jacob

[vhgmcbuddy]

try Meetens at Preston

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks guys for all your replies….dunno how much it’s worth, so hard to try and sell without knowing….Rick.

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