[vhgmcbuddy]

not a sight you’d see today,

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi the valve cover is the little rectangular cover with a single bolt in the centre that holds the airshroud in place. It also has the word J.A.P in capital letters.

[vhgmcbuddy]

So it is common then? Is it easy to release the valve?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi, thanks for your reply. I don’t want to sound thick but I am only just getting to grips with these things and I’m not sure where exactly the valve cover is? Can you point me in the right direction.

Thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

The easiest thing to do is to pop the valve cover off and see that the valves aren’t stuck open. After that just remove the airshroud over the head and pop the head off and see what’s going on inside. Don’t worry about the head gasket as in almost every case these can be reused with a smear of jointing compound.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi
Serial number 195

[vhgmcbuddy]

The size is in theory the same, it’s just originally the gem would of had Dunlop diamond pattern tyres. These tractor type patterns are just a lot chunkier on the cleats and often cause clearance issues on the near side. If you look at the bellhousing on this one you can see in the one place where the metal has slightly worn away due to rubage. Most Sachs diesels that I see have the inside edge of the cleats removed to overcome this problem.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Have now started fitting the gem back up. The first job was the wheels. Had a bit of trouble with the near side one as usual- such a pity you can no longer get the original Dunlop tyres, the used to fit a treat. In the end I’ve resorted to using another wheel disc to act as a spacer to get the necessary clearance(just) on the bellhousing but this in turn will mean that the springs need shortening. I have also refitted the radiator. After having a proper look at the bonnet now it has dried I’m hopping to get away with flattening it back with some 2500 wet and dry.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie, it’s getting there. You almost forget how time consuming a gem is to do. Still got another one to finish after this before Newbury.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The axel/gearbox is the same make and numbers as the original the
change over was a straight swop. I checked the belt for wear
and all was ok. the brake was out off adjustment as it was on
when finished the wheels where fast, but when i adjusted the brake and they turned.
I will have another look at the belt route many thanks Davey

[vhgmcbuddy]

At long last I’ve finally started making some proper progress. The main chasis was wire brushed down and then after what seemed like an enterinity the pipes and cables were masked up. The engine was etched primed then the whole thing was primed and sprayed in my favourite top coat colour. Overall I’m happy with the way everything has come out bar the bonnet which will need flat ting back and another top coat applied.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes its a Mayfield Merlin in very poor shape. For parts only by the look of it

I have seen a pic of it

Its worth no more than £50 in that condition

I am currently restoring 2 of these. Only taken 4 years so far!!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve not got the serial number yet but I’ll look into it! Do they have much value as it is?
Thanks Richard

[vhgmcbuddy]

This tractor

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi all,

Crawler had quite a bit of use last year, and now its time for some maintenence.

A few questions.

I currently have the Amal 356 Carb fitted, and am considering going back to the original setup. But first I need to aquire the original manifold. Anyone idea where I might get one? Anyone got a good one for sale?

Secondly. my fuel copper fuel pipe has cracked at the join by the fuel pump with all the vibrations. It’s old, so I’m looking at replacing the whole thing. Can anyone clarify the threads at the fuel tank and pump end? I might order braided hose.

Also, need to replace the rubber/metalstaic coupling soon. Any advice on this job? I understand Neil has these for sale?

James

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