[vhgmcbuddy]

Ok so the part number is…

100902 (Model) – 0349-01 (Type) – 76101407 (Code)

[vhgmcbuddy]

Right, finally got my brain into gear and found a diagram.
The big governor spring is in the correct place. Just round the corner from where it is hooked to the governor arm on the vertical bit , will be an empty hole. That’s where one end a short solid rod should go; the other end going to the throttle spindle. The thin spring probably slides up the short rod and shares its anchor holes at each end to keep the linkage taught but it will probably work ok without it. Those thin springs enclosing various rods are variously described as anti-rattle and anti-surge but are often missing or broken on older machines.
Ask your “mechanic” if he might happen to have a spare rod!
The rod is shown as still available, 260654 £4.55+vat or you could make one from a piece of piano wire. A bit of experimentation may be needed to get the length right but it shouldn’t be to difficult. The cranked ends need to be at right angles to one another.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Problem, can’t read the MTC numbers in your post. You may need to lightly sand across them or high light them with a felt tip. Something like this. Or just post the numbers!
The rigid link will go between the horizontal arm that pokes out from under the flywheel and the plate on the top of the throttle spindle – that is the governor trying to shut the throttle The big (now overstretched) spring will be collected to the handle bar operated cable and the other end hooked to the governor / throttle spindle to oppose that closing force. What I can’t recall from memory is quite where that end should be located.
If anyone on this forum has a Hayter 21 with a 5hp Briggs, it probably has a similar set up.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I did seem to recall a rigid link at some point. This may explain its seemingly wild running.

Attached is a picture of the engine code. Hopefully clear enough.

I’ve found a few exploded diagrams which shows a metal link rod, but I’m just not sure where it would go or if the current spring arrangement is correct!

Would love to see a picture of a properly setup one as a reference.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Initially it was a struggle to start, followed by the engine cutting out quite quickly. Last year it was occasionally tricky to start but then once it went it ran until it was put into STOP.

Having rebuilt the carb (cleaned, the new gaskets/diaphragm) and in its current configuration it now starts but seems to be revving really high. Sounds like it’s about to take off!

Guessing this is now a result of the missing/re-arranged components!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Definite case of finger blight!
It appears to be missing a rigid link between the Governor arm and the throttle spindle but the perpetrator has repurposed the Governor spring to try to replace it. The small diameter spring threads over the missing link to keep the linkage in tension.
I’m struggling to find a decent schematic of how it should be, so please post the Model, Type and Code numbers that you will find stamped into the engine cowling – probably above the spark plug.
Meanwhile there’s another VHGMC member who to my knowledge has a similar cultivator and I will ping him a mail and he may be able to post an image of his machine.

[vhgmcbuddy]

After a day of tinkering:-
Magneto stripped cleaned re-built
Timing of engine – think so
Good Spark – Yes
Good Compression – Yup
New fuel line – Uh huh
Fuel in tank – done
wind cord on starter – check
Pull hard – Indeed.
Running engine – Well a couple of bangs and silence.

well its a start !! 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ok so after hours of deliberation and talks with a mechanic friend along with some other research I have realised that the small fibre jockey wheel that seat back into the large gearbox pulley wheel is in fact a reverse option!

So the engine is driving it the right way, but I was only selecting reverse with the left handlebar cable…

If I bypass the smaller red wheel with the fibre disc and go from the engine pulley to the main wheel, the belt will rotate the large gearbox wheel the correctway and hence get forward motion!!!

So my next question is…. I assume there must be a drive belt that goes direct to the large gearbox wheel and should the large red gearbox wheel have another pulley for the belt to sit in? or does it also seat in the groove the reverse fibre disc drives in??

Any more help greatly appreciated… I’m sooo close

[vhgmcbuddy]

Kubota Mag did indeed produce an engine with a drive off the cam . In their case it was to give a low speed drive at tick over to operate with the centrifugal clutch on a Ransomes Mastiff without having to redesign the gearbox. The snag was that the cam runs in the opposite direction to the crank. The answer was to change the engine rotation . That aside, there’s no sign of a camshaft power take off on the OP’s engine.
The image of the “gearbox” is only marked Hi, Lo and Neutral so if that machine has a reverse it has to be achieved elsewhere, but the primary drive must be forward leaving any reverse side belt or friction system to deal with the lesser used reverse.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Did the Wolseley Clearways ever have reverse?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes no unused pulleys at all… in this case I think I’ve been sold a complete lemon! It looks to me from other pics I found on line that the original engine pull start rotated the engine the other way. From what I gather, whoever put the new engine on also went to the lengths of fitting another cutting blade with the sharp edge on the opposite side. I think it was only until they started it and ran it they realised the mistake they had made!

I have only now realised it myself and have been ripped off by someone who said it cuts really well and has kept him going for years :0( I absolutely hate anybody who will lie to those lengths to mke a quick buck…

Maybe i can mod it as I am so far down the line now with restoring it

[vhgmcbuddy]

Charlie,

I used a drill to crank it over, There was no spark, then when I make contact with the HT Lead for a few seconds then hold it just under 1mm away I get a good spark but if I stop and then start again the spark is not so strong. If that makes sense ?

I did try and PM you with my E-Mail for the Manuals that you offered to send. But I still have the message saying I need to be a paid member. I did pay yesterday and when It allows me to I will send my E-Mail.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I think the jockey pulley basically comes up and tightens the slack looking belt and forces it into drive

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes the blade definitely rotates the right way and can only rotate that way as it’s edged only on one side, which is to say you couldn’t turn it upside down either at it would bend up and hit the blade cover. So I am sure the engine is turning it the right way…

[vhgmcbuddy]

Here are pics

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