Howard 350 Coil

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  • #24703
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    I strongly suspect the coil on the Kohler K141T on my Howard 350 has gone to be with God since being put away last year. Changed plug, condenser, points, Gapped at .015 ” HT lead as far as I can, and spliced in a new one . Still no sign of a spark . I know the coil is behind the Flywheel and this flywheel is really tight local guy with a hydralic puller couldn’t shift it.

    I can see replacement Coils on that Auction sight , but can I fit the car type coil that seems to be available so I don’t need to pull the flywheel ? .

    #24706
    wristpin
    Participant

    Just as well that your ” local guy” didn’t end up with a ring of flywheel and the centre still on the crank. Using any sort of legged puller ( if that’s what he did) on your Kohler or any similar flywheel is an absolute no, no. If the flywheel is drilled and tapped near the centre, make up a puller with a bit of flat plate and two set screws to bear on the end of the crank ( protected by the flywheel nut), wind it up tight and give it a sharp tap with a hammer. Maybe, also warm the centre of the flywheel up but remember what’s behind it!
    Points, the recommended setting is 20 thou.
    You can use an external automotive type coil but you will need a battery and have to give it a charge now and again. Better to stay standard. Before you get carried away doing that, take the points off and give them a thorough clean, make sure that they are shutting square to one another and set the gap accurately, better a bit tight than wide as I have had a couple that have run better nearer 18 thou than a sloppy 20. Also try checking the spark with the points cover removed.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/t59ihxrrrijqqaq/Kohler%20ignition%20etc0001.pdf?dl=0

    #24709
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Wristspin Thanks for the advice

    I will make up a puller and try what you have suggested . My belief is the local machinery shop had a hydraulic puller .

    Spark with the points cover removed . OK so cover is off, if I turn the engine over , there should be a spark at the points ? IE they should be live . I did disconnect the kill switch at the Condenser, just to eliminate and track to earth in that one no joy there . Like I said , I have swapped the condenser .

    Thanks again

    #24711
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Stupid question Does the puller you suggest need to have a thread hole and bolt in the middle to bare on the crank rather like a 3 legged puller would ?

    #24713
    wristpin
    Participant

    For one off purposes a bit of plain bar with no centre screw will do. Slacken the flywheel nut a turn or two and put the pressure on by either tightening the two bolts screwed into the fly wheel or use studding with nuts and tighten the nuts bit at a time.
    Be aware that being of US origin, the tapped holes in the flywheel will be UNC thread and not metric.
    The page 10.1 of the Dropbox file that I attached to my post has a not entirely accurate drawing of a “posh” puller with a centre screw – it should show a bit of crank protruding from the flywheel.

    #24714
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Ah Success the Flywheel can away with a few taps with the copper mallet . Coil is dated 1973 so is I thing original . Simple multi meter connected from the plug lead to the wire that runs to the Condenser does show some resistance but not sure what I am looking at Having got it all apart a new coil may be a wise investment. The Coil part number is 232901 or 238059 Kohler part 47-755-20 10mm square hole 27 mm approx high and around 41mm across I think looking at the replacements on the auction site, the one lead to the condenser will need to be lengthened, looks like some did this on mine originally too ! Kohler price is a staggering £169.00 The pattern is £29.00 Guess which I will fit . Yeap probably Chinese but hell hopefully will be mobile !!!

    Hey thanks for the help all I need now is to work out how to get to the drop box on here

    Have a great weekend and thank you

    #24715
    wristpin
    Participant

    The reason for checking the spark ( at the end of the plug lead) is that it has been known for an incorrectly positioned low tension wire to short out against the inside of the cover.

    A lot of useful info in the Dropbox scan that I posted – you just need to click on it in my post.

    #24716
    wristpin
    Participant

    Hey thanks for the help all I need now is to work out how to get to the drop box on here

    I was a bit puzzled by by that remark but then realised that you can only see the Dropbox link if viewing the post in the main Forum area. It is not visible if viewing updated posts in Activity.

    Here it is again.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/t59ihxrrrijqqaq/Kohler%20ignition%20etc0001.pdf?dl=0

    #24881
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hello

    Here is the Question . No start on Kohler.K141 T no spark, Changed Coil, New though not Kohler . Old coil seems OK but is dated 1973 ! Still no spark

    Changed Points and Condenser. Hurray Starts and runs. Used last Saturday all afternoon no problems. Sunday . Starts second pull runs well for 5 mins then stops . No spark

    Checked all leads and connections re checked coil OK checked leads for damage . I can get an intermittent spark . Disconnected kill switch Cover off points

    Things not checked . Wires between condenser and points

    Compression seems low but I think these engines have an easy start that initially reduces compression .

    When I have a spark the old pour a drop of fuel in the cylinder trick seems not to work !!Tried new plug tried slightly different points gaps New points are non genuine but new condenser is genuine Kohler though physically a little different to the old one.

    Thinking Cam wear or sticking points operating rod . though points do open and close

    Any ideas ?

    I have an electronic ignition system ready to fit but want to get her running first

    #24882
    charlie
    Keymaster

    Well worth checking wires to condenser and points, I remember my father had a problem with his Monro Tiller and it was one of the wires had broken inside the flexible covering.

    #25090
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    OK thanks for all the advice finally convinced my self there is something more seriously wrong with the engine . It does seem to be down on compression , just by turning it over . I have run the engine for some years with out the main govenor spring so may be this overstressed the engine and finally killed it . bought a replacement K141T off that well known auction site and it runs and starts well .

    As I said with the old engine failure Initally once the coil, points and condenser were replaced she ran well . On dragging her out of the shed the day after spending 2 hours or so using her, she fired up well and ran then suddenly died , not actually rotavating, just in travelling set up just like hitting the kill switch . Having run her out of fuel the day before, I suspected dirt in the Carb, cleaned all ok. Now the spark seems to come and go !!! I can get a spark then nothing tipping fuel in the plug hole should get her to fire , but she doesn’t . Checked that the timing is repeating ie points open with the crank in the same position each time seems OK not checked the static timing yet

    I have as I said replaced the engine for now and things seem OK Will have to strip unit down to find out what is wrong I have known timing gears to fail my suspicions lie with the Valve gear / broken spring dropped valve what ever . The really annoying thing is my wife works for Kohler, and I still have real trouble getting spares .

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