[vhgmcbuddy]

One question why are you using at best a 1940’s engine for a 1907 Motorcycle? Surely you should be using a Bradbury engine,
I happen to know where there are 2 such engines,which may become available,ideal for your project.
This part is where I get my hands slapped Charlie! He’s a fully paid up member of the club!
Mr Wallingfield
Kind regards
Andrew

[vhgmcbuddy]

Chester is very much live and very well,the last time I saw him,he was in deep conversation with Mr Wallingfield doing some deal over our kitchen table!While drinking coffee and munching fruitcake!
Kind regards
Andrew

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well, I think for the time being I’ll have to get the engine running and see just how badly the oil escaped from the gearbox before deciding exactly what the course of action is to be!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Peter you’re spot on, it’s the chappy circled in the attachment

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Argh, my inability to remember and accurately reproduce numbers has thwarted me again by the looks of it

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve been referring to Sean’s thread, it’s a great insight into the inner workings! The deeper I dig into these machines the more I appreciate the way they’re made! Would be good to see you out and about, fingers crossed we don’t have to stay confined to quarters too much longer!

Charlie, the drawing I’d particularly like to see is 8317D which should be the right hand axle bush. I suspect it might be a part common to the 56.

As an aside, were the UK built machines an exact copy of the Swiss SIMAR, ie all built in metric. Or were they “imperialised”?

Mike

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks, yes I think I meant to say magneto
that’s what I was thinking, just need to try and track one down

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi there, very simple process to start them, fill some petrol, prime the carb, close the slide flap on air intake, wrap pull chord round the pulley and pull. My 2 stroke one takes 3 or 4 depending on how long since last used, the 4 stroke usually goes first time.
Might be wise to go check do you have spark first of all.

Graham

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for your help, very much appreciated! Only thing left to do is to get that pulley off as it siezed on so just ordered a blow torch as a bit of heat will help. I’ll let you know how it goes when I pull the engine apart.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Peter,

I am the son 😀 seem to remember dad had to be sent on the trip to collect!

Would be interested to hear your thoughts on how much play is too much play when it comes to the bearings? I’d estimate that there’s about 1/16″ of movement in the vertical plane, as shown in the video in my previous post.

Mike

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ahh I see, the side plates are missing, so perhaps this one will remain a mystery… I assume that Geo Monro imported models other than the 35 and 56 from Switzerland?

Did I see in another thread that you have access to some engineering drawings Charlie? After some investigative dismantling today I’ve discovered a rather well worn main axle bush on the right hand side (8317D), so it looks like the lathe will have to be pressed into service.

Embarrassed to admit that I made the mistake of pulling out the hub drive flange, my heart did sink when I heard the pinion drop… Fortunately after allowing the old girl a lay down I managed to wriggle it back in. Phew!

Though I can’t imagine the gearbox is going to hold very much oil without some remedial work… Video of the sloppy axle here:

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Update happening… Missing
MANUAL PAGES 18, 20, 55 , 70, 76,77,78,79,80,81 and 83–>

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank You for Activ People… I have almost complete manuals now.

So what I am missing still  is SHOP MANUAL PAGES
20, 27,28,29,30,31,32,34–> 61, 70, and 82–> (If there is any)

So, if anyone know Where to get mainly electrical parts Magneto etc… (I think everything related ignition From magneto to sparks, Would be nice. Does F8100 parts fit? or from motorbike?

Toni

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve gotten the short pin removed. The long one is pretty stuck indeed, I tapped it inwards with a hammer to ensure it engaged properly, and I can withdraw it back to it’s original position with the use of a pry bar behind the “t” piece. I’m reasonably sure that the issue is the part which has been exposed through the back of the wheel hub has become rusty and is now very tight in the bore. Current plan is to remove the wheel and attempt to drift it back through rather than risk damaging the “t” bar by prying behind it.

As an aside, are you in Norfolk Roatavator? I seem to remember you once donated us a Villiers mk12 for spares? Though it’s possible I’m getting mixed up!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Okay, got the HT parts on order!

Do you have any idea why the number on this machine doesn’t tie up with any of the serial number ranges on the French site?

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