[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes I saw those on EBay. The actual regrind is only £22 but it would cost me £20 in postage. I thought if could find someone locally I could save the postage.

[vhgmcbuddy]

A Ransomes dealer, Garfitts, Garden & Hire Spares.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello,

Thank you very much for your reply, that has certainly cleared up some questions I had and narrowed down what series Howard Gem, I believe it is a Series 5 Gem following from the info provided.

Many Thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

if the primer feels smooth to prime then I believe the pipes are assembled correctly and fuel is flowing into the carburettor, which is good, the filter screen may be blocked in the carburettor (pump side) which may be preventing fuel from entering the engine, or, the engine may be flooded, possibly too much fuel in the crankcase? maybe removing the spark plug and pulling the starter rope a few times to see if lots of fuel shoots out (liquid or gaseous effect). Are there gaskets either side of the carburettor when assembled, like on the manifold? theres a chance that lots of air may be entering the crankcase either by a cracked component (like the manifold) or that the gaskets arent assembled correctly (if the gaskets have small holes near the main hole that lines up with the carburettor openings?), it is quite hard to tell on this since it sounds very much like a fuel issue but may be something else, did it run before you replaced the pipes? does the engine spark and/or good compression?

hope this helps

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello,

When you prime the carburettor, does the fuel fill the purge bulb? or when you prime it does fuel seep out of the carburettor everytime you prime it? are there any kinks in the pipes that could prevent fuel flow to the carburettor at all, plus, are the diaphragms and gaskets ok in the carburettor. Its difficult to tell with the photo provided but the fuel pipe goes with the hose that has two notches (looks like two cones on the brass pipe, if that is the technical term for it) and the return hose goes to the pipe without notches, im not sure if that carburettor has the configuration I have described.

Hope this Helps,

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi it’s Will I thought I would share my happiness I have got the Petter running and it’s running perfectly 😁 it was as simple as the ignition timing was 180 degrees out so took of the mag and rotated the flywheel half a turn and re fitted the mag and it started up. One word of advice though make sure when ‘re fitting the mag that the little clip that holds the points cover on is not trapped between the mag and the valve chest because you have to take the mag off again to free the clip. I found out the hard way.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi
i have taken 2 more photos, one of the throttle control where it connects with a spring to the governor arm but i have no idea of which hole, or if i need more than one spring.
i could put the tank back on to show the position but if i did that, a photo would show nothing as you cannot see between the tank and the engine as the space between is very small, even taking a photo of the governor is practically impossible as you cant get the camera down to the governor arm

Attachments:

1. 
2. 
3. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you trusty mad Charlie has sent me a lot of information regards Dave

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Richard,

I am very interested! Maybe I can make one fully operational mower from our two! Are you able to provide pictures please? Do you have a price in mind?

I’d be happy to chat or email if you can? Jamiechubb@hotmail.com is me.

Thanks,
jamie

[vhgmcbuddy]

Take a pic with the tank in position – and the throttle cable so that we can see whether it’s connected at carb level or down at the lower end of the tank support bracket. It would also help to know what machine the engine is fitted to, one of us may be familiar with that particular set up. I’ve worked on dozens of 5hp 13 series horizontal crank BS engines but to be of specific assistance we need to know your application.
Don’t write off the possibility that there may be someone not far from you who can help you. Have you joined the VHGMC, it may surprise you .

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi
i will take another photo i have to take the photos like this as when the fuel tank is in position and the linkage connected there is no space between the engine and fuel tank to get a photo of anything decernable.
i live in newton stewart S W Scotland DG8 6LS but i doubt anyone can help me with out knowledge of this particular model.

the workshop manual is rubbish, it does not show how the various elements of the throttle and governor linkage connect to each other, not are there any words describing anything

[vhgmcbuddy]

Unfortunately the first image is rather out of focus and it’s not easy to see what’s what. The second two are duplicates and not helping much.
Can we have a general view of the tank and carburettor showing as much linkage as possible – not too much of a close up so that we can see the relative positions of the linkages.
Where abouts are you located; it’s possible that a club member may be able to assist.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi
here are 2 photos, one is the throttle mechanism that is controlled by the hand lever, as can be seen there are some holes in where some sort of spring connects this to the governor or/and the carb linkage, which you can see in the photo of the governor lever.
with my dementure i cant remember what was on it 7 months ago when i put a new carb on it, i have a feeling there was only one spring that connected the throttle arm to the governor. i am at my wits end with this and would be grateful for any help.

sorry got confused and put a tree on by mistake and cant see how to delete it

regards richard

Attachments:

1. 
2. 
3. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi i must have missed typed m it a zero at the front, not a 9

[vhgmcbuddy]

I regularly overhaul neglected Marquises with seized rear rollers and have developed a method using a few homemade tools. Most seizures result either from no lubrication at all or from being greased which has dried out in the roller bearing passages and prevents further lubrication. The roller bearings should ONLY BE OILED , not greased.
Remember that you are dealing with old cast iron, and act accordingly!
My method.
Cut the ned out of a 25l drum ,fill 2/3 full of diesel or kerosene.
Gently lower in the roller and top up to cover.
Leave for a week
Remove roller and secure one end leaving the other end to be turned. NOT by a bar poked through one of the lubricator access holes.
Try turning the free roller and work it back and forth while pulling it outward. Once it is free and off the shaft the battle is half won!!

Apologies for duplication of images but I cant find out how to remove it in edit!

• This reply was modified 3 years ago by .

Attachments:

1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 

[Author]

Posts