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Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 231 total)
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  • #15352
    stuart
    Participant

    Remove the flywheel as it will be SO much easier to work on the ignition system !!.Remove the flywheel nut in an anti clockwise direction when it will start to feel tight.Keep on turning the nut and this will then draw the F/W of the crankshaft taper.The condenser is situated behind the contact breaker box and will need removing from the alloy armature plate to fit a new one.

    #15157
    stuart
    Participant

    Have you any photos which would help us ID it ??

    #14932
    stuart
    Participant

    Looks similar to the S3 model but with a cast iron Clinton engine instead of the Villiers MK15.

    #14728
    stuart
    Participant

    Ignition timing for a MK15HS (High Speed) engine is 1/8″ BTDC.Loosen the flywheel so that its free to turn on the crankshaft.With the piston placed at 1/8″ BTDC slowly turn the flywheel until the points are just opening and then tighten the flywheel.Make sure the crankshaft remains stationary when the flywheel is tightened or the timing will be out !!

    #14613
    stuart
    Participant

    Has your old Commer got one of there 2 stroke diesel engines in her ??.Do love the sound of a multi cylinder 2 stroke diesel :):):).The old American made Detroit 71 series engines sound even better :):):).Very nice Simar rotavator you have there and it looks like it retains its original paintwork too.

    #14392
    stuart
    Participant

    When I was working for the Agricultural Eng,s “F.H Burgess” in the mid 1990,s there was some old (1960,s / 1970,s) sales brochures for Solo equipment.I always remember there was a brochure for a twin cylinder chainsaw :):).Wish I had them brochures now !!

    #14148
    stuart
    Participant

    When it injects Ken is the fuel completely atomized ??.It should look like a cloud of very very fine mist when it injects.If all you get is large droplets of fuel from the nozzle then that will never ignite under compression and your FI pump needs a good overhaul.
    The following is the only information I have for a Sachs 500 engine (as fitted to a Howard Gem) but I guess your model is the same.I hope this helps…..
    Fuel injection 1764 psi (must not be below 1470 psi)
    Injection commences 25 degrees BTDC
    Oil should always be visible in the front compartment of the engine.
    Always use the starting knob (RH side from the front of the engine)…..pulling the knob retards the injection and prevents kick-back when starting.
    Let us know how you get on :):)

    #14127
    stuart
    Participant

    Maybe a fuel injection pump problem ??.And why was the regulator housing changed ??

    #14125
    stuart
    Participant

    It seems strange to me that when the excess fuel device is used no atomized fuel is emitted from the fuse holder when its removed (surely more fuel should be seen !!).Take the injector out the cylinder head and if possible reconnect it to the high pressure fuel line in such a way that you can clearly see the atomized fuel spray / pattern when the engine is cranked.Im sure you should see the difference in the spray pattern and fuel quantity with the throttle lever set at “idle” , “half throttle” , “full throttle” and “cold start / excess fuel” .When the injector operates (injects fuel) you should hear it “creak” as the pressure is a couple of thousand psi.DO NOT PUT YOUR HAND OR SKIN ANYWHERE NEAR THE INJECTOR NOZZLE as the atomized fuel pressure is extremely high !!!.

    #14118
    stuart
    Participant

    Is this the water cooled 2 stroke diesel engine as fitted on some Howard Gem rotavators ?.Whats the history with the engine / machine ?.Have you just brought it as a non runner or have you owned it for years and now it just wont start ?.In either case i would just check and go through the whole engine as a matter of course (compression,fuel system,fuel filters,air cleaner,timing etc etc).

    #13976
    stuart
    Participant

    If you want it original and fitted with the correct 2-stroke “Brockhouse” engine then send me a PM as I have a couple of these engines for spares which I brought for my own Hoemate “just in case they are needed at anytime”.
    The Villiers MK10 engine would not be a very suitable replacement.

    #13899
    stuart
    Participant

    In order to fit a new rotor shaft / sprocket assy the chaincase needs to be split.Those rivets only fix the bearing housings onto the chain casing.It sounds like you may have other “issues” with the gearbox that need attention if its making a grinding noise.

    #13673
    stuart
    Participant

    Yes that’s the fella Charlie.Hope he reads this soon.

    #13664
    stuart
    Participant

    OK spoke to Jon earlier today and he has nothing but suggested I get in contact with Ian Mackallow ?? as he tells me he is a Tarpen enthusiast.Hopefully he may read this soon.

    #13662
    stuart
    Participant

    Thanks Chris.Im sure the engine is not a Villiers one even though it looks very similar but I will give him a call later today.
    I do have some thread gauges so I will try to determine what pitch they are (they are a fine thread).

Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 231 total)