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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 231 total)
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  • #32779
    stuart
    Participant

    Take the spark plug out,squirt some fuel into the cylinder,replace spark plug and try to start engine.If it fires up briefly but then stops you either have a compression related problem (usually valves not seating or a valve clearance issue) or a fueling / carburettor problem.Depending on how mechanically minded you are the fueling issue would be easier to rectify.Laser ride on mowers should have a Japanese engine fitted (a Honda or Kawasaki) so i doubt very much it would be an ignition related problem but they are getting old now so its still worth checking as well !!.If the spark plug is really wet with fuel (flooding) then recheck your carburettor and float.

    #32385
    stuart
    Participant

    Check the valve clearances before you fit a new ignition coil (Inlet .006″ and Exhaust .010″ ).Poorly maintained side valve engines have a tendency for the valve clearances to close up !

    #32008
    stuart
    Participant

    Has it a larger main jet in the carburettor or is the throttle needle in a higher position in the throttle valve ?.Both would make the engine run richer.

    #31395
    stuart
    Participant

    I have a complete cylinder mower attachment with grass box for a Landmaster “Gardenmaster” rotavator.If you are interested please send me a PM.

    #31373
    stuart
    Participant

    OK i will find out what the part number is for you within the next day or so.

    #31367
    stuart
    Participant

    To get the correct engine parts you need the MODEL,TYPE and CODE numbers which are stamped on the tin cowling.From your last photo you have already removed this cowling so look closely at the front of it and you should see the numbers stamped there.I think the model number for an 11hp Briggs starts with 25####

    #31230
    stuart
    Participant

    Think you need to check the ignition timing again as it sounds like the flywheel has moved on its taper / crankshaft.Be sure to tighten that captive flywheel nut otherwise it will loosen / slip (even more so if the main bearings are worn)!.

    #30958
    stuart
    Participant

    Have you tried Cox and Turner engineering ?.

    #30371
    stuart
    Participant

    A Merry Tiller with a 5cwt truck would be ideal.The MT (with wheels fitted instead of the rotors) fits on a turntable and makes the truck very manouverable.Do a search on Google.I just sold mine a few months ago.

    #29814
    stuart
    Participant

    Im sure the BMB Cultmate used a BSA 320 engine.

    #29746
    stuart
    Participant

    A picture would help identify it but i know it has the wrong engine on it as Landmaster never used SIF engines.

    #29557
    stuart
    Participant

    You need to file a slot on the inside of the flywheel taper where the cast (integral) key was originally.You will need some needle files to do this.You will then have to make a key to fit the crankshaft keyway and now the flywheel keyway.

    #29458
    stuart
    Participant

    I have a long Tarpen flexi shaft and Tarpen chainsaw that is an attachment for a Merry Tiller rotavator.If you are interested send me a PM.

    #29414
    stuart
    Participant

    You could get get that worn shaft built up with weld and then turned back to std size in a lathe.Be cheaper than getting a complete new shaft made i think !

    #29389
    stuart
    Participant

    The Sachs 500 (and 600) is a 2 stroke diesel engine.Are you using the correct ignition starters ?.If compression is low make sure the piston rings are not stuck in there grooves and that the bore and piston etc is all in good condition.Check the fuel injection timing is correct too.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 231 total)