[stuart]

Is it fuel coming out where the choke butterfly is located ?.Maybe you are giving it too much choke and its just the surplus fuel thats dripping out ?.On my Howard 400 it dont need much choke at all.Have you tried opening the tap on the inlet manifold to “lean” the mixture to see if the engine will at least start and run ?.Is the gasket between the upper and lower bodies ok ?
Im sure my carb has a fixed main jet Andy,not an adjustable one ?.How many turns out have you set it at ?.Have you tried screwing the jet it and see if it still floods ?.Its been a couple of years since i started mine up but i know it only needed half a pull up on the handle on the compression stroke and it would start.

[stuart]

That i did John :).I just hope he dont decide to dig any more “sleepers” out from the back of the shed……i dont really want to get involved in removing any more stubborn keys again for a little while 🙂

[stuart]

The flywheel key was actually prodruding from the inside face of the flywheel hub.The key had been hammered in until it got to the end of the keyway in the crankshaft.The keyway on the crankshaft then curved up at the end (it was just how it was machined at the Lister factory).Whoever refitted this key then kept on hammering until the end of it followed the curved path of the keyway,pinching it REALLY tight at this end.How the cast iron flywheel hub never cracked i dont know with the amount of force that must of been on it !!.To make matters worse i never had any really long drill bits so had to make them longer by welding a longer shank on them until they were approx 12″ long.I was very pleased though when the key finally came out :).

[stuart]

Thanks for the info Andy.
Regards to the Zenith carb i basically had to make one good one out of all the carbs i brought as all had “issues” with them.I still have one left which is “NOS” (new old stock) but someone has allready tried to remove the brass main jet with a poor fitting screwdriver and mangled the slot up.I know you can buy brand new Zenith 24T-2 carbs (from that auction site) but they are expensive.They were fitted on many different engines and tractors etc including Ferguson TE20 and TED20 petrol and paraffin tractors.Personally i would try to buy a cheap used carb from that auction site and make a good one up as i did.
Several years ago Andy i brought a new 24T-2 centre gasket from Meetons (the Villiers and other small engine spares specialists) so they may have other Zenith parts available too.May be worth a phone call if you only need a needle and seat to repair yours ??

[stuart]

On my AC-2 chaincase there is a small screw on the side which acts as a level.Add oil untill it just starts to come out of hole.Maybe yours,allthough a differemt model,has a similar level screw ??

[stuart]

Yes all ok now Charlie.Thanks.

[stuart]

I dont know what should be there John as i cant find a good enough Google image of a KS280 showing the handlebars / swivel area.
I think the KS280 has an alloy plate riveted somewhere on the handles giving the model number,engine type and machine serial number ??.Maybe you can confirm if this is on yours ??.
This is the only photo i took of my smaller AC-2 showing the handles which as you can see has a large decal on them.

[stuart]

The fuel tank should be red John.Also if you do a Google image search of Iseki KS280 all the images show a red fuel tank.Heres a sales brochure i found.

[stuart]

The engine is a Kawasaki KT290.If so its the same engine in my Iseki AC-2 rotavator / tiller.The engine model number should be stamped on the crankcases.The KT290 engine has a capacity of 60cc.Heres a few pics of my engine in my Iseki AC-2 rotavator.Does it look the same as yours ???

[stuart]

It maybe the ignition timing is out.The magneto’s stator assy (the stator is the coil,contact breakers and condensor assy located behind the flywheel) has slotted holes to enable adjustment.
Also worth checking is the exhaust port and the exhaust itself……the engine is a 2 stroke which burns oil and eventually will block the exhaust port in the cylinder barrel and the exhaust outlet with carbon.If the gases cant escape the engine will not run.

[stuart]

Is it sparking at the spark plug ??.If not then the contact breakers will require cleaning and the only thorough way to achieve this is by removing the flywheel.

[stuart]

OK let us all know if he gets its running for you.

[stuart]

OK thaks Phil.I am near the town of Kettering in Northamptonshire.If i was around your way anytime i would take you up on the offer.

[stuart]

Yes thats the oil filler tube for the chaincase.Again there is an “oil level” screw on the side of the casing.Im sure SAE30 grade oil will be fine for the chaincase.
I suspect if your engine does not start it has lost its spark due to standing / not used for a long time ??.If this is the case then the flywheel will need removing to access to the magneto (contact breakers and condensor).You really need a proper removal tool for this flywheel.Do NOT hit the flywheel or the end of the crankshaft with a hammer in an attempt to remove it !!.I used one of my flywheel removal tools and it was very tight on the taper !!.
The carburettor would need a thorough cleaning too i suspect.Where are you located as i could get it running for you.

[stuart]

Which part of the country are you in Phil ??
Thanks for those pictures and measurememnts of the engine cover…..i,ll see what i can make up.
Refer to my pic on the other forum…….just below and to the Left of the red drive belt pulley on the reduction gearbox you will see the 2 screws and also cast into the alloy casing “OIL LEVEL”.If you want me to take another closer up picture of it for you i can do.

[Author]

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