Iseki AC-2 rotavator

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 53 total)
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  • #3392
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    I have 1 of these machines in the shed if anyone wants it. Minus recoil starter and seized, but otherwise complete. Free to a good home. E-mail paws44@btinternet.com Phil

    #3397
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Thanks for the message Phil. Being in S W Wales I’m probably too far from you.

    #3401
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Fragonard my email is paulmackellow@aol.com, send me an email and I will sort out a copy for you…

    #3402
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Thank you paulmackellow. I wonder if somebody can help me. I’ve got a kind of switch on the left hand arm/handle with a very thin electric wire leading from it. But when I got the rotavator, it didn’t lead to anywhere and was just wrapped around the bottom of the left arm. From what I can make out on the switch, it says ‘0’ and ‘1’ on it. I’m probably showing my complete ignorance of things mechanichal but what’s this and where should it go? I’m not sure if it’s to be seen on Stuart’s photo althugh I can see a slim wire running along the bottom of the left arm on the first photo but I can’t see a switch.

    #3408
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Its the engine stop button. It goes to the magneto and earths one side of the points to stop the engine. Phil

    #3409
    stuart
    Participant

    Yes mine has the original engine “cut-out” switch on the LH handles.To stop the engine i just press the red button.Its spring loaded and therefore returns to the “engine running” position when released.
    Your switch would also have a wire going down to the magneto (behind the flywheel).The position “O” is OFF and position “I” is ON.You really need to connect the switch up to enable the engine to be stopped in the proper manner…..ie by grounding out (earthing out) the ignition low tension circuit.

    #3410
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    My Iseki MC1 has a switch on the handlebars that does the same job.

    #3411
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Mine doesn’t start at the moment. Would this wire not being attached to the magneto prevent if from starting?

    #3412
    stuart
    Participant

    Which part of the country are you in Phil ??
    Thanks for those pictures and measurememnts of the engine cover…..i,ll see what i can make up.
    Refer to my pic on the other forum…….just below and to the Left of the red drive belt pulley on the reduction gearbox you will see the 2 screws and also cast into the alloy casing “OIL LEVEL”.If you want me to take another closer up picture of it for you i can do.

    #3414
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Stuart,

    I think I know what you’re referring to now. But it wasn’t what I was trying to describe earlier. If you look at your 3rd image down. In the bottom left hand corner is a metal tube with a black cap on it. I’m missing the black cap. This is another place to insert oil isn’t it? What type of oil should this be?

    #3425
    charlie
    Keymaster

    The wire from the switch not being connected will not stop the engine running. However if the end from the engine is touching any of the metalwork it could as it will be earthing the ignition.

    #3429
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    How much of a job is it to replace the lead to the spark-plug? It’s a bit worn om a couple of places.

    #3433
    wristpin
    Participant

    Some HT leads were screwed onto a spike in a recess cast into the coil and then sealed with some form of mastic/adhesive. Others were joined to the coil secondary winding before the coil “potting” material was cast around them. Problem is that unless you know you may **** a perfectly good coil in the process of finding out.
    Unless you are looking for a cosmetically original/perfect result I’d slide a length of shrink insulation tubing over the existing lead.

    #3438
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Stuart, I am in North Nottinghamshire. Phil

    #3439
    stuart
    Participant

    Yes thats the oil filler tube for the chaincase.Again there is an “oil level” screw on the side of the casing.Im sure SAE30 grade oil will be fine for the chaincase.
    I suspect if your engine does not start it has lost its spark due to standing / not used for a long time ??.If this is the case then the flywheel will need removing to access to the magneto (contact breakers and condensor).You really need a proper removal tool for this flywheel.Do NOT hit the flywheel or the end of the crankshaft with a hammer in an attempt to remove it !!.I used one of my flywheel removal tools and it was very tight on the taper !!.
    The carburettor would need a thorough cleaning too i suspect.Where are you located as i could get it running for you.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 53 total)
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