[stuart]

16:1 will be fine with that oil.
Yes the engines bottom end is lubricated by the incoming charge of petrol / oil mix from the carburettor first….then this same mixture goes up the transfer ports into the combustion chamber,lubricating the cylinder,piston etc.
Yes the small screws on the LH side of the machine are oil level screws for the front “worm and wheel” and rear rotor “worm and wheel”.If you have found no oil in these areas then damage (wear) to the bronze worm wheels will be high !!!.These bronze worm wheels are expensive to replace IF you can find them.Also the design of the rotor worm wheel was changed slightly over the years.

[stuart]

Engine sounds sweet but as these engines are “forced air cooled” you need to refit the tin engine cowling back on as it directs air from the flywheel fan over the cylinder and head to keep it cool !!.

[stuart]

I havent got a copy 🙁

[stuart]

Any gaskets required you will have to make yourself.
Bearings and seals can be obtained from your local bearing supplier.
The Brockhouse engine uses a strange governor assembly (theres at least 2 slightly different types used depending on engine serial number) located in its own housing.The fibre “weights” will no doubt be rather worn.I had to make a pair of these for my engine.

[stuart]

I guess that was very expensive Charlie ??.Fortunately its only one of my “spare part” engines that the con rod / bearing issue is with.The original engine in my BMB Hoemate is perfect :).

[stuart]

New parts for the Brockhouse engine are very few and far between !!
I have a BMB Hoemate myself.I have also brought 2 spare engines over the years but they are rather hard to find especially in good condition.One of my “spare” engines wants a new con-rod,roller bearings (steel and bronze) and crankpin but i have never found anyone who is able to supply them.I did manage to buy a NOS Amal carburettor and airfilter a few years ago though :):).
What parts are you looking for ??

[stuart]

I have 2 identical engines that i would part with.Both are cast iron engines,yellow and came from Wolseley Merry Tiller Professional rotavators.PM me if interested and i could email a few pictures.

[stuart]

OK looked at the manual today and it doesn,t mention anything “special” about fitting the oil seals.Theres a special Honda tool to fit them but it looks like its only a bit of tubing of the correct diameter to go over the wheel shaft (rotor shaft) and drive the seals in squarely.BTW this F400 manual is dated 1976.

[stuart]

Im sure i have a genuine Honda F400 workshop manual at work (in fact theres a big box of various Honda w/s manuals :)).I,ll have a look and see what it says ref fitting replacement rotor shaft seals tomorrow.

[stuart]

Think we have an imposter on the site guys.

[stuart]

The engine is 3hp.I have a complete NOS 3hp engine for a water pump which has the same small “Flo-Jet” carburettor as yours.The crankshaft has an external thread for the water pumps impeller to be screwed on.

[stuart]

Give Standen engineering in Cambridgeshire a call.They purchased all the remaining Dowdeswell (Howard) spare parts around 2001.I have found them very helpful in the past.

[stuart]

Never heard of that make but the engine appears to be a 2-stroke Clinton.

[stuart]

Thats taking shape nicely John 🙂

[stuart]

I would think then that either one or both of the carb bodies are distorted and its leaking because the gasket cannot make a seal.Try a straight edge on the carb bodies and see if you can see daylight anywhere between them.If you can then im sure thats where your trouble lies.
What machine is your engine fitted to Andy as i see it was a JAP 4/3 model and i just thought it may be a Howard 400 rotavator but i guess this engine was fitted on numerous other makes of machine as well.

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