[stuart]

I had to file the manifold gasket surface flush on my Zenith carb as they do tend to “warp” from incorrect tightening / general misuse.Im sure I also fitted a couple of gaskets just to be sure there were no air leaks.My brass throttle spindle needed building up as it was quite worn / sloppy in the upper carb body.I just soldered it and smoothed it round with emery paper strip.Works a treat :).Apart from servicing the magneto and honing the cylinder bore and recutting the valve seats no other work was needed.I haven’t used the 400 for a couple of years as its buried in the back of the shed.They are excellent machines 🙂

[stuart]

I have one.If you want it doing Charlie send me a PM.

[stuart]

Providing the compression is good and theres fuel in the cylinder and the spark is at the correct time then it should go.Are you 100% certain the ignition timing is correct and the carb is in good order ??
My 400 with the same JAP 4/3 engine fitted only needs a pull up on the starting handle and she,s away.

[stuart]

The solid tyres are obsolete / NLA (no longer available) unless you can find some new old stock ones anywhere.Might be worth contacting Chester Hudson as he has lots of Howard parts.He has a website which I think is tillerparts.com ??

[stuart]

The “Bullfinch” (very first models were named the “Bulldog”) which was first made in 1954 only ever had 2 blades fitted on each flange.The engine should be a 98cc JAP 2A.The very similar Howard “Demon” had a BSA 120cc engine fitted and had 3 blades on each flange.The original Howard 200 which also had 3 blades on each flange was originally fitted with an underpowered 98cc Villiers MK10/1 so from serial number 18404 it used the 120cc Villiers MK12/1.
The serial numbers on all the above models are stamped in two places…..on the brass plaque on top of the front shield and between the two clamps on the rear end of the worm housing.That concludes todays history lesson :):):).Hope this helps.

[stuart]

The only way to remove the welch plugs is to drill a small hole through them and then prise them out with a thin screwdriver with the end ground down to a sharp point.Obviously the plugs have to be renewed so make sure replacements are still available before you do it.Clinton parts (new old stock) are still available in the USA on that auction site or you can make the plugs yourself.

[stuart]

Some Villiers engines I have had,especially the 2-stroke models like MK25C,have a “slit” or a mark on the end of the crankshaft at the flywheel end so you can visually set the crankshaft at the 12 o clock position and hence the piston will then be at TDC.The MK15HS 4 stroke engine I mentioned above has no “slit” mark though.
As already mentioned a rebore makes no difference to ignition timing settings.

[stuart]

Ref the ignition timing Joe…….i have on my workbench a Villiers MK15HS (the High Speed version of the MK15) which I have dug out as I am going to sell it.It had a +020″ rebore and new genuine Villiers / Hepolite piston kit many years ago and has never been used since.Anyway on this engine there is a mark on the flywheel rim and a mark on the alloy armature plate at the 12 o clock position.With the piston at TDC and with both these marks aligned the ignition timing advance is correctly set.Just remember to set the contact breaker gap first though.In my Villiers MK15 and MK15HS operators manuals I have there is no mention of setting the timing up this “easy” way.Hope you get it sorted soon.

[stuart]

I have a 1960,s Uni-Horse tractor too in original and unrestored condition and is fitted with a BSA engine with the electric start option.It also has a mid mounted mower fitted.The bonnet is fibreglass.It has 3 forward gears and a reverse.It was last used possibly 30 years ago and has been barn stored.I have been meaning to get it up and running again when time allows as I wish to sell it.

[stuart]

Set the contact breaker gap to between 012″-015″ and leave the flywheel slightly loose on its taper so it can be turned whilst the crankshaft remains stationary.Set the piston at 1/8″ BTDC (remove cylinder head to get an accurate position and only refit the head after the timing has been completed).The flywheel must be turned so that the points are just beginning to open.Retighten the flywheel ensuring the crank does not turn.Refit the cylinder head.If the carburettor and fuel system,the ignition system and the compression components are all in good order then you will have no problems :):)

[stuart]

As a matter of course on an engine that has not been used for several years I would check all the following…..contact breakers,condensor,spark plug,HT lead,ignition timing,compression components (valves,valve clearences,head gasket),carburettor (thoroughly strip and clean).

[stuart]

There should be a twin compartment fuel and oil tank on the machine.Petrol in one side where the pipe goes to the carburettor and engine oil in the other.The engine has an oil pump fitted and the oil then returns to the tank (or should do !!).

[stuart]

The model of the carb is stamped on the body.After a good clean take a look around the area where the fixing clamp is and you will see it.It will be something like 379/1 for example.

[stuart]

I have just renewed my membership Charlie and payed with paypal.Thankyou.

[stuart]

They want the crankshaft Wristpin but due to the complete generators size and weight that would mean me removing the engine from the frame etc which TBH i didn’t really want to get involved with.However if that’s the only option then I will have to do it.

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