[stuart]

My Hoemate is unfortunately buried in my fathers storage container otherwise I could of taken some measurements for you.Im sure another Hoemate owner on here will be able to help you Dan.

[stuart]

OK just looked in my MK25C owners manual and the needle should be set at 2,3/8″ (two and three eighths inches) for the “Lightweight” carburettor.

[stuart]

Im sure you could fabricate an engine cowling.Maybe even cut up and modify an easily found steel cowling like from a Villiers,JAP,Briggs and Stratton,or Techumseh engine ?? At least with steel its easily welded (or personally I would bronze weld it as it makes a much nicer and neater job).

[stuart]

Yes the engine most definitely has a cowling otherwise it would not be cooled.The cowling is made from sheet aluminium (not cast).

[stuart]

Maybe the carb is set too rich ??.There is a correct length to set the tapered needle at in the throttle slide (using the brass screw on top of the slide).I will have a look in my Villiers MK25C book for the correct length if you think this may be your problem.

[stuart]

Search this forum Dan as I posted some pics of my BMB Hoemate a while ago.Theres a pic of the engine too.They have an Amal carburettor and Wico magneto.Also the governor system is a little “strange” on them compared to other English engines like Villiers,JAP and BSA etc etc.Let us know how you get on.

[stuart]

I would say the carburettor is worn.Check the brass float,fuel inlet needle,emulsion tube,idle valve and throttle shaft.If the throttle shaft is badly worn you will never get it to run satisfactorily.Buy a carb rebuild kit and provided the rest of the engine is in good mechanical order it should be ok.

[stuart]

I have a complete 7hp (or it may be an 8hp as I cant remember if its a model 17#### or 19####) B&S engine with the 2 piece Flo-Jet carburettor.I would sell the whole engine Junior but not the carb on its own.If you cant find just a carb body on its own and you are interested in my engine then PM me and I,ll send a few pics.Its in my fathers storage container (as most of my stuff is :)) and if I remember correctly he managed to spill some green paint on the engine a few years ago otherwise its still in the original black B&S colour.
This post has just reminded me that i also have 2 NOS short blocks for these engines :):)

[stuart]

I have at work the correct B&S tap to repair or “clean up” the threads in these 2 piece Flo-Jet carburettors but if the threads are completely worn away or stripped I think a replacement carb assy or body is the best way ahead.
You may get away with a new brass emulsion tube and thread “repair” but without seeing it its hard to know for sure.

[stuart]

Basically all the clutch is is an electro magnet which when energised pulls the clutch in.First you need to establish if you have power going down to it.If no power check the switch,fuses and the PCB.Also check the seat safety switch (you can temporarily bypass this by just bridging the two wires).If you do have power down to the clutch then check the continuity of the coil (note….some electric clutches have a diode in the wiring where the socket is) but I suspect if its not working a new clutch assembly is required.

[stuart]

You really need to strip and clean the carburettor out.The fuel inlet needle is not seating hence the leakage.Before separating the upper and lower carb bodies remember to remove the brass emulsion tube first.

[stuart]

Yes I have a L140 model.The engine should be a 4hp Briggs and Stratton with white tinwork.Engine parts are readily available but Landmaster parts are now generally NLA / Obsolete.What parts do you require as I have a parts list and could give you the part numbers if you really want to know them.

[stuart]

Yes mine is red too (its all in original condition and never been repainted which is just how I like them :)).

[stuart]

The Brockhouse engine is rope start (not recoil start).I have a front cutterbar mower for mine as well as a plough and cultivator.

[stuart]

The engine model is A15.These were the later engines with electronic ignition (by WIPAC).

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