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May 11, 2015 at 5:42 pm #13021
stuart
ParticipantI have some very good ones available Mick.I have the normal slasher tines as well as the finger tines.Send me a PM for more details.
May 5, 2015 at 8:52 pm #12937stuart
ParticipantThe only way to get them of when they are seized / rusted on the threaded shaft is to use a pin punch and a hammer.Naturally this destroys them but as you are fitting new ones is does not matter.
May 4, 2015 at 8:37 pm #12920stuart
ParticipantThe oil level screw is on the RH side of the chaincase (look in the area behind the wheel).To check the oil level remove the screw and tip the machine forwards (lift the handles up) so its resting on the engine platform.If oil level is correct it should trickle out the hole.Use SAE80/90 grade oil.
May 3, 2015 at 7:52 pm #12882stuart
ParticipantBTW when you select reverse gear on the 300 / 350 / 352 models you have to physically hold the gear lever in its position all the time as its spring loaded.As soon as you release the lever the machine will come to a halt.Its a safety feature.Let us know if the cable adjustment makes any difference.
May 3, 2015 at 11:16 am #12871stuart
ParticipantThe double pulley arrangement is for a reverse drive but there is lots of parts missing on your machine for it to work.It was originally available as a “kit” to make the rotavator more versatile.
May 3, 2015 at 7:21 am #12862stuart
ParticipantWhen the clutch lever is released on the handles the drive belt should release from the pulleys and the large transmission input pulley should stop turning.Only select gear when the pulley is stationary otherwise you are going to damage the gears in the gearbox / transmission (they may already be damaged though if its been used like this :(:(:(:().
May 3, 2015 at 7:13 am #12861stuart
ParticipantA square / flat key should be easy to make for the large pulley / chaincase input shaft.I see it has a large double pulley arrangement which means its had a reverse drive set up fitted.The rotors (tines) look ok to me from the pics so should still be serviceable ??.The belt tensioning jockey pulley does look a bodge i agree.However im sure you can improve on this !! Difficult to tell from the pics but the engine pulley wants to be a steel one and not aluminium.Obviously the Honda engine is a replacement which should be fine if in good mechanical condition.
May 2, 2015 at 8:25 pm #12848stuart
ParticipantThe belt tensioning pulley assy is not original Junior.Its been “modified” presumably because the original clutch worn out.Also the engine is a later 7hp (or maybe 8hp) B&S.
April 30, 2015 at 9:31 pm #12809stuart
ParticipantIm sure the model you have Junior is a Dowdeswell 352.Early models had a 5hp B&S engine whilst later ones used the MAG/KUBOTA engine.
April 30, 2015 at 9:24 pm #12808stuart
ParticipantThose freewheels act like a differential to make turning easier.If you lift the rear of the mower up using the handles (so the rollers are off the ground) put your foot against one roller half then engage the drive lever……..you should find that the other roller half turns and visa versa.
Only use genuine Hayter belts and check the cable adjustment.Also check the PTO pulley on the LH side as they do wear.April 23, 2015 at 9:40 pm #12715stuart
ParticipantI would guess its a similar set up to the Merry Tiller and countless other similar type machines…..the rotor shaft runs on needle type bearings or ball bearings with oil seals on the end.All will be apparent when you split the chaincase.
April 23, 2015 at 9:35 pm #12714stuart
ParticipantHave you checked your valve clearences ??.
April 20, 2015 at 5:48 pm #12663stuart
ParticipantIts a Brockhouse SPRYT 2-stroke engine as fitted in the BMB “Hoemate” 2 wheeled garden tractor of the 1940,s / 1950,s.
They are cracking little engines (well I like them anyway :):)).Have you got the alloy engine cowling as you must not run it without it fitted !!
I have a complete BMB Hoemate plus a couple of spare engines.One of these engines requires a replacement big-end bearing assy (actually they are individual rollers made from steel and bronze) and crankpin.April 19, 2015 at 6:43 am #12626stuart
ParticipantWhereabouts are you located ?
April 14, 2015 at 8:47 pm #12580stuart
ParticipantJust unscrew the knurled / chrome top on top of the carburettor and pull the throttle slide out of the body.In the centre of the slide there is a small brass screw with a slot in it.Screwing it in lengthens the needle making a weaker mixture and unscrewing it richens the mixture.Set the needle to 2,3/8″ out from where it exits the bottom of the throttle slide.The Villiers handbook says a little adjustment either way may be required.
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