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Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 171 total)
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  • #20551
    ransomes256
    Participant

    Joe,

    email njarrett@btinternet.com

    Neil

    #20212
    ransomes256
    Participant

    The reduction box cover is the most difficult item to remove.
    First the entire box must be removed and this requires the PTO coupling to be removed in the operator seating area first. It therefore means if a PTO is installed it needs to be removed.
    The reason for this is the shaft drive for the PTO comes direct from the reduction box.
    Once the reduction box is removed you can access and release the nut on the input shaft and then you can remove the cover.
    It would be well advised to replace the input shaft seal as this often fails and is a nightmare to replace as you have to do all the above to get to it. If the journal is heavily grooved I would fit a 2 lip design.
    Neil

    #17306
    ransomes256
    Participant

    My passes arrived today so just need to get all the spares ready to take and display.
    Neil

    #15836
    ransomes256
    Participant

    Graeme,
    For an entry form visit http://www.tractorworldshows.co.uk
    The contact arranging the MG display is Jonathan Cox 01697 478292
    You will still need to fill in an entry form and send to the organisers for passes etc.
    Neil

    #15726
    ransomes256
    Participant

    Jonathan,
    Is the magneto too far in advance? It may be worth retarding it mechanically rather the using the mechanism to see if it improves the situation. Warming the spark plug can help and I assume there is sufficient fuel reaching the plug. Not a favourite product but try some Easy Start or similar Ether to try and pick up a few more bangs.
    I know you had the magneto rebuilt but is coil resistance and condenser charge / discharge time all good? These could still show a spark at slow engine rotate.
    Good Luck
    Neil

    #15679
    ransomes256
    Participant

    Jonathan,
    Why not try a complete working MG2 carburettor first before you try swapping slides and other bits.
    Seems you have to much compression which may also be a problem if the inertia from the flywheel does not keep the rotational speed up.
    Neil

    #15551
    ransomes256
    Participant

    This is a little misleading taking workshop manual build info and comparing it to strip and diagnosis findings.
    The manual requirement to set gaps spaced radially around the piston is based on new build and assumes initial bedding in of the ring has not yet occurred. If all the gaps on one piston are in line it can give an easier initial route for ignition gases to pass by and burn the piston edge. If the rings are a little dry and tight on initial start and fail to rotate straight away this can lead to an early failure especially on higher compression and performance engines.
    It is true that as the rings are free to rotate at will they will inevitably line up at some point but in the case of a multi cylinder engine unlikely to be on multiple bores at the same time.
    Before retirement I was supervisor on engine testing and inspection for a major motor manufacturer and when we identified one piston with gaps in line we would only note it but when you find all 6 or 8 pistons with rings in line after 1 hours running something is wrong.
    Neil

    #15517
    ransomes256
    Participant

    James,
    The exhaust fitting is a simple design but due to burning can be a poor fit in the barrel. As the engine is hard mounted in the chassis there is no relative movement between the two so the clamp around the pipe to the manifold suffices plus add a little exhaust paste for a good seal.
    Hopefully a photo attached of an original installation.
    Neil

    Attachments:
    #15198
    ransomes256
    Participant

    The big end nuts should be tightened to 42 lb/ft but is very difficult to apply due to very limited access for any suitable tooling.
    A new main bearing bush requires reaming in situ. It is a dual purpose bush and should be reamed 1.500″ if running standard bearing size or 1.490″ if running a reground main bearing.
    I have an original 1.490″ reamer which is used in conjunction with the main roller bearing in the rear cover to maintain alignment.
    Neil

    #14884
    ransomes256
    Participant

    Andy,
    Vehicle wiring products list this. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products
    If not Speedy Cables http://www.speedycables.com will certainly have what you need but tend to want to make up cables. http://www.speedycables.com
    Neil

    #14823
    ransomes256
    Participant

    Standard is 1.8745″ to 1.8750″ so your crank appears to have been ground 10 thou under size.
    Neil

    #14819
    ransomes256
    Participant

    You will need to know what size big end bearings you require.
    The exhaust pipe is just a push fit into the hole in the barrel. Due to age and burning it may be best to seal with some exhaust paste. The pipe is retained by a clamp to the intake manifold.
    The 2 tapped holes only apply to the TVO manifold or the MG6 356/1 intake and exhaust system.
    Neil

    #14693
    ransomes256
    Participant

    As answered by expeatfarmer you will need to use the tapped holes in the clutch drum but with regard to the broken engine mounting I would suggest after repair and installation I would leave one mounting bolt just nipped and not tightened as this may prevent a re-occurrence of the failure.
    Neil

    #14454
    ransomes256
    Participant

    If using the original 18mm plug a Champion 7 or 8 com or a Lodge C8
    If using a more modern 14mm plug and adaptor a Champion N9Y or Motorcraft AG22 or 32
    In all cases do not use a resistor plug or cap as magnetos do not like them.
    I can supply a new coil if you are certain this is what is required or rebuild your mag.
    Neil

    #14403
    ransomes256
    Participant

    I have been rebuilding Wico A magnetos fitted to Ransomes crawlers for a number of years and apart from coil faults can confirm the failure you describe is often associated with the condenser. It is true a condenser normally works or does not but some condensers can take a considerable time to accept a charge and also a slow rate of discharge. I am not aware why this occurs but a new condenser will charge and discharge quickly.
    Neil

Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 171 total)