Rescued Ransome MG5?

[silverfoxfintry]

I will repair/weld the broken mount and then machine it down to the same hight as the other 3. Unless the frame is distorted this should be OK.
But if not feeler gauges and some shims will give me a secure 4 point mount.
“Soft foot” is often a problem when using a 4 point mount.
Does anyone know the tolerences for misalignment between the motor and gearbox?
Or will the rubber coupling take up any misalignment?.
PS. Can anyone tell me the correct spark plug?

Silverfox

[expeatfarmer]

I use Champion N9y with a thread adaptor. Rubber coupling will take up any minor alignment issues.

[silverfoxfintry]

OK. The engine is out and in my workshop.
The clutch and flywheel are removed as is the magneto, carbureter and fuel pump.
Fount that the magneto had been repaired in the past. It may require a replacement cap.
It’s still far to heavy for me to lift.
The engine number is MGE 3828.

[silverfoxfintry]

The engine is cleaned and stripped.
Not in bad condition.
The big end bearing journal is in good condition, but I will replace the shells and the main bearing.
The valves require re-seating but are usable.
The timing chain is a bit stretched and I will replace it.
The main problem is the exhaust port.
How is the exhaust pipe fitted to the cylinder
All I have is a rusted hole in the cylinder and 2 tapped holes.
Is something missing?
Does anyone have a picture of this area?
SILVERFOX

[ransomes256]

You will need to know what size big end bearings you require.
The exhaust pipe is just a push fit into the hole in the barrel. Due to age and burning it may be best to seal with some exhaust paste. The pipe is retained by a clamp to the intake manifold.
The 2 tapped holes only apply to the TVO manifold or the MG6 356/1 intake and exhaust system.
Neil

[silverfoxfintry]

The big end journal mikes at 1.865/1.864″.
Is this the standard size or a regrind ?
As for the exhaust port—- I may have to bore it out and sleeve it back to the original size.
It’s quite badly eroded.
Silverfox

[ransomes256]

Standard is 1.8745″ to 1.8750″ so your crank appears to have been ground 10 thou under size.
Neil

[silverfoxfintry]

The next problem is the oil suction filter located in the sump.
It has been damaged in the past.
I may be able to solder up the tear, but it is a bit distorted.
A replacement will have to be fabricated.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a supplier of a small quantity of Brass mesh?

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Try eBay, you can buy A4 size sheets.

[silverfoxfintry]

Thanks for the info on the brass mesh.

Made a new suction filter today.
The crank is away for grinding and the broken foot on the crankcase s being welded.
Things are progressing.

SILVERFOX

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[silverfoxfintry]

OK, so the crank has been re-ground and after trying to flush out the Oil gallery with WD40 and compressed air I had to remove the plug.
MMMM, quite a job. Ended up welding a nut to it and using an impact gun.
Glad I did. Found a lot of old carbon deposits.
I hope to start the rebuild next week. Can anyone tell me the torque for the big end nuts?
Also will the Main bearing require reaming after it is fitted, or is a finished size?

Thanks again

Silverfox

[ransomes256]

The big end nuts should be tightened to 42 lb/ft but is very difficult to apply due to very limited access for any suitable tooling.
A new main bearing bush requires reaming in situ. It is a dual purpose bush and should be reamed 1.500″ if running standard bearing size or 1.490″ if running a reground main bearing.
I have an original 1.490″ reamer which is used in conjunction with the main roller bearing in the rear cover to maintain alignment.
Neil

[silverfoxfintry]

Well, the rebuild has started.
I bored out the main bearing on a milling machine.
Allowed 0.002″ clearance.
Can anyone advise on the end float on the crank shaft?
I have 0.005″ but I think this may be a bit tight.
Thanks

SILVERFOX

[silverfoxfintry]

Good morning all.

Well, the engine is complete. Only the cowling requires sandblasting and painting.
I am now starting to investigate to reduction and differential gearboxes.
However. The cover on the reduction gearbox is reluctant to come off.
Can anyone advise me of the stripping sequence for the gearboxes?
At first glance everything looks in fair condition. But only a complete strip and inspection will reveal the true state of things.

Thanks

SILVERFOX.

[dave]

Good morning,
If your MG5 engine is an original one the year of manufacture is probably 1952.
If you send me your contact details to djclark89@btinternet.com I will send you a copy
of the MG5 parts list which may help you in sorting out the gearbox etc.
Dave.

[Author]

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