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Dave,
From this running gear I feel the machine is more probably 1947
Neil

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Dave,
1-47 is the month and year of manufacture of the crown wheel.
The gear ratio is 9/34 (9 on pinion and 34 teeth on crown wheel)
The load rollers on a 1937 machine would be galleried (radial slots) but on a 1947 more likely just 3 round holes. Idler wheels also changed from galleried to pressed rims.
If in doubt post a photo.
Neil

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Dave,
Sorry I do not have an MG2 available to look at or photograph. Hopefully an owner will join in and be able to supply some more specific info.
Neil

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Dave,
Engine number stamped into the crankcase on the left side. (left as sitting in machine)
Neil

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Dave,
There may be some variation depending on year but I believe it will be the right plate (looking at rear of machine) The number would be stamped in the lower left corner.
The second plate mounted lower on the left side carries the patent info for the roadless track.
I have never seen the serial number on the gearbox cover.
Be careful using a powered wire brush, try rubbing chalk or crayon in the area and sometimes a digital photo reviewed with various contrasts etc. can show otherwise invisible results.
Good Luck.
Neil

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Dave,
Unfortunately the only true id was on the plates and there is no other serial number available on the machine. It may be possible to see a faint indent in the chassis where the plate fits as the serial number was stamped on the plate after it was fitted to the tractor.
If you have the registration number you may be able to retrieve the id from the DVLA and then attach new plates with correct number stamped.
If you need parts contact me njarrett@btinternet.com
Neil

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Peter,
Drop me a mail about this.
Neil Jarrett njarrett@btinternet.com

[ransomes256]

The valve clearances should be 0.006″ inlet and 0.008″ exhaust
Gap set with piston at top of stroke on compression and checked under the cover plate on the side of the barrel. Tappet bolt and locknut screwed into the tappets.
Cylinder bolt head torque 32 lb/ft
Neil

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Joe
The skimmer is owned by Rhys (rocboni)who has been rebuilding it and is trying the water. It is one of two known existing machines both owned by members.
Neil

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I am not familiar with the 955 but the many versions of the Wico A are clear.
Clockwise or anticlockwise rotation.
Foot or flange mounting (variations depending on engine manufacturer design)
Drive dog / sprocket design again dependent on engine design.
Advance mechanisms for various engine designs.
Single cylinder / 2 cylinder / 4 cylinder uses.
Start multiplying all these variations together and it is easy to see how the 100 plus derivatives can be achieved.
In my opinion I consider the base magneto is a simple and flexible design and have rebuilt many with no real issues and try to keep a good selection of spares.
Cleanliness is the biggest feature when rebuilding as oil / magnetic particles in the wrong place can cause many running issues which do not appear to be logical.
Neil

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Gareth,
Welcome to the forum and good luck with your search. In the meantime I have manufactured a replacement jet holder for your carburettor and it is ready for you. DC is aware.
Neil Jarrett

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Hello,
Yes I have both these dipsticks available.
Please drop me a mail for a list. njarrett@btinternet.com
Neil

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Jonathan,
15367 is shown on the register. Maybe Dave can offer more info.
Neil

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Joe,
The floor and the toolbox were originally made from pine with some steel reinforcing edges etc.
I have some drawings to help make some replacements to the correct pattern.
The level of restoration is always open to debate. I feel the most important thing is what you are happy with and what you intend to use the tractor for. If it is staying at home for some fun the level is less important than going to shows and ending up with a broken bolt in a track and getting stranded or using it for ploughing and doing some increasing damage due to heavier loading.
With the MG2 the maintenance of the flywheel assembly is very important as a miss fire or kick back can easily break the flywheel and these are not available.
Hope this helps
Neil

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Joe,
As the supplier of the parts I would prefer to not advise although please feel free to call me.
However, I would like to point out you should try and keep the track sections the same way round relative to each other. The reason for this is that over the years the tooth sections will have worn more on one side than the other so if assembled randomly you may get some tracks pitched as current, others with a larger pitch and some with a tighter pitch. This I am sure you can see may lead to drive wheel engagement and smooth running and track retention an issue.
Neil

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