[ransomes256]

Hi,
Another machine rescued.
Photographs will be best way to ensure identification.
If the Id plates on the back of the machine are beyond reading it may be possible to see a shadow of the stamped number in the chassis under the plate as they were stamped in situ. Rubbing with chalk and using a digital camera then playing with the contrast on a computer may reveal info. If this fails I am sorry there is no other location for the serial number but the date may be possible to establish from an engraved code on the edge of the main gearbox crown wheels.
If you send me an email I may be able to assist with parts. njarrett@btinternet.com
Neil

[ransomes256]

Post hole borer?

[ransomes256]

Michael,
I am not an oil expert either.
If you search this forum there is a thread about oils for the Diesel engine.
They seem to suggest an SAE 20 is the best.
The gearbox would be best with the SAE 50 but if expensive will be OK with a multi grade 20/50.
The side drives, drive hubs, weight carrying rollers, and idler hubs all use SAE 140 gear oil.
Neil

[ransomes256]

Michael,
Glad I have been of help and the engine runs.
The engine oil filter is located under the belt tensioner bracket and is held by the 4 nuts.
Engine oil should be a straight 30 but not sure what will be available in France.
Gearbox oil should be a straight 50 oil but an engine oil of 20/50 is OK.
The tractor does not use any grease. All load rollers, wheels and hubs use an EP140 oil.
I think the engine belt tensioner does have grease (a water proof grease would be best)
Regards
Neil

[ransomes256]

Michael,
I am not an expert on this engine but believe your method is correct. I am not sure what length the piece of wood you used was but I presume this was free to rise to the TDC position. It would not be easy to assess TDC if it was not free to rise.
Is the engine still locked if the wick holder is removed (certain that there is no compression)
If it is you must have disturbed something else in the engine. Are you sure the decompressor from the crank handle is working? Is it lifting the push rod when the crank handle is pushed in?
Have you placed the push rod out of position when adjusting the valve?
Neil

[ransomes256]

James,
The slot is random and has no bearing on tube.
If anything the internal passages need cleaning.
Neil

[ransomes256]

James,
It is a fine thread and should just unscrew. However, It may have corroded so would need care and as I stated previously some heat. Take care not to melt the aluminium casting.
Neil

[ransomes256]

James,
The emulsion tube is located under the blanking plug on top of the carburettor. Once the plug is removed there is a wide screwdriver slot in the top of the tube. If this has been butchered there are only 3 options.
1. Try to improve the slot with a Dremel type tool.
2. Try to use a screw thread easy out.
3. As a last chance drill out and replace the tube.
You may need to use some heat for options 1 & 2 but be careful of any retained petrol.
Once out the tube should not be split and have 2 cross drilled holes and a solder plug in the end.
If you have not previously had this tube out I doubt the internal cross drillings in the carburettor body are clean.
Neil

[ransomes256]

James,
The dog on the magneto can only fit in one of two positions and it is unlikely this was wrong. I am assuming it is the correct magneto and was not a rouge version in the first place.
It should be an A-1009-CZ
The quickest and least intrusive check is to take the tappet cover off and check you have maximum valve clearance at compression TDC the timing chain drives the camshaft which also drives the magneto.
Neil

[ransomes256]

James,
The magneto should click every time at TDC.
It will spark (click) on both the compression and exhaust strokes.
You need to check the engine timing. ie are both inlet and exhaust valves fully closed at compression TDC. The timing chain can jump teeth if it has become slack.
If this is OK try some easy start.
Neil

[ransomes256]

James,
The jet is fed via one of a number of cross drillings in the carburettor body. These are blanked and may be blocked causing your starting issue.
Neil

[ransomes256]

James,
It will depend on if everything is as it should be and nobody has been there before.
Often some aerosol brake cleaner or similar sprayed around the release mechanism will do the job but if the spring has gone weak it may need to be wound on 1/2 a turn.
With the points just make sure the insulator strip covers the entire length before you put the cover on.
Neil

[ransomes256]

James,
The click is the impulse of the magneto which should be heard every time when cranking by hand.
The actual impulse is there to retard the ignition by about 20 degrees to make starting easier and also flicks the rotor faster to improve the spark. If the ignition is not retarded it will make starting virtually impossible. When the engine starts the impulse pawl moves away due to centrifugal action and therefore advances the ignition.
If the mechanism is sticky you will need to remove the magneto and clean it. Mark the flange mounting then turn the engine until you do get an impulse click. Do not crank the engine any more. Remove the magneto, clean and check points. Before re fitting rotate magneto by hand until impulse releases and then refit with the nearest dog position to the marks as previous.
Neil

[ransomes256]

James,
The carburettor is generally considered the better version as it has mixture control.
To get the engine to run sweetly it is important that the air inlet pipe is fitted and air tight plus the correct oil in the filter. Without this the air flow rate across the venturi can be higher than expected and therefore the mixture control is poor.
Neil

[ransomes256]

Shop, what shop and where? or is that a secret?

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