[ransomes256]

The engine numbers are not directly linked to the build date of the tractor.
Is this a type T engine (chain driven fan and a folded sheet metal cover) or a type TB engine (belt driven fan and curved casing)?
You normally find a date code on the edges of the crown wheels. eg 7/37 equates to July 1937
Unless the chassis has an imprint from the serial number stamp under where the original plate was fitted as they were stamped in situ.
Neil

[ransomes256]

The Green Spark Plug Company list these plugs.

Neil

[ransomes256]

Tim,
I am not familiar with the JAP engine only the Ransomes MG which is of a similar design. Compression has probably disappeared not only through wear but from lack of use. Once you get the engine running the oiling of the bore will improve the compression but may be eased with some lubrication squirted through the plug hole. The piston rings may be seized or stiff in the piston and may free up with use but may finally require an engine strip to check.
Good Luck.
Neil

[ransomes256]

Tim,
There are 2 styles of Wico A cap. You have the version that the lead is just a push fit into but the end of the lead should be fitted with a push in terminal. If you have not got the terminal it should be perfectly OK if sufficient wire from the core of the lead is exposed and the lead pushed firmly home and retained with a few wraps of insulation tape.
Neil

[ransomes256]

Hi,
Have you removed the 2 outer bearing filler strips from the main chassis?
You will need to push the left hand drum and shaft as far in as possible.
Start by lifting vertically then tilt up on left side with right brake drum entering the gap in the side plate.
This can be a bit of a struggle on your own.
Neil

[ransomes256]

There are several opportunities.
Assuming you have soaked the frame tube with plenty of release fluid.
Find a very large diameter nut and bolt that will fit between frame and main body adjacent to the central support tube. With the nut on the bolt pack the bolt to be a tight fit then undo the nut to act as a wedge and push the frame away. This process needs to be repeated until frame is free.
Second option is to drill and tap the top of the cross bar tube to fit a grease nipple then pump grease into the joint.
Third is to spring the frame away from the hub and idler spindles and rotate the frame around the cross tube.
Finally you may need to use a lot of heat.
Neil

[ransomes256]

Although I will be attending the Newbury show I do not intend having the same stand as I had at Malvern.
If any owners wish to collect parts at Newbury please let me know to ensure I take them with me.
Neil

[ransomes256]

Jonathan,
Before you suspect the condenser I would suggest you clean the points as a small amount of calcified deposit can also give a similar result. If you still consider you have a condenser failure would you bring it / them to Newbury so I can test them for you. Additionally how long has it been since you ran this tractor and could it be related to stale fuel?
Neil

[ransomes256]

Dave,
I am sure there will be a lot of opinions on this but as stated by Jonathan there was an early change in colour from his researched light blue/green colour to Nacton blue which is the pale cornflower shade. I know there are some opinions that Orwell was on the MG2 and Nacton on the MG5 onward but all the NOS components I have in stock for MG5 / 6 / 40 are in the Orwell blue but in an eggshell finish. I believe there were some very early MG5 machines painted in Nacton.
The Orwell blue is as near as is reasonable the same as Ford Tractor Blue (Not Empire Blue) The red is Rood Red which is as near as is reasonable the same as the Old Massey Ferguson Red.
Sorry I do not have any RAL numbers and have only seen restored machines painted with a gloss finish. The white pinstripe was about 1/8″ wide.
At the end of the day it is your tractor and personal choice on the finish applied.
Neil

[ransomes256]

I am not a plough man but believe the 42A has lower adjusting screws for use in orchards but generally appears to be the most common found.
Neil

[ransomes256]

Dave,
The TS30B was the original plough available for the MG2 it was followed by the TS42A and 42B with the introduction of the MG5.
The biggest advantage of the TS42 is that it uses a quadrant driven from the wheel to lift the plough out of the ground as opposed to the hand lever on the TS30.
There was a 2 furrow option available for the MG5 which was only suitable for very light soil.
Neil

[ransomes256]

As far as I know there is no specific Ransomes MG club. A few years ago Tom Couchman started a group with a news letter but it never really took off. There is a discussion group on Yahoo started by Veronica Merryfield 16 years ago and still used but not very much activity deal.
If you have seen the entry of the owners club for the Newbury show I believe was entered by Expeat Farmer ensure there will be a dedicated indoor space at the show. I am sure Jonathan will confirm this.
Neil

[ransomes256]

Joe,
I am a bit worried by the statement “packed with grease” The Ransomes MG range use no grease!
All gearboxes and nipples are oil only. The side boxes, weight rollers and idler hubs are all EP140 and the engine and gearbox all SAE50. Oils seals on hubs and rollers are all installed backwards designed to leak oil out to clean surface but close down to keep dirt out. Grease will hold seals open and let dirt in.
Neil

[ransomes256]

I will be going to Newbury but do not plan to have the same stand as Malvern so it is essential that if you require any parts you let me know in advance to ensure I take them with me.
Neil

[ransomes256]

Joe,
The 580 is just an assembly number and I do not believe it applies to the serial number. The 4-37 suggests the crown wheels were produced in April 1937 which seems a long way in advance of the serial number 551 which is 1940. Please see Diesel Daves investigation into serial numbers.
Neil

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