[hillsider]

http://www.stripmine.org/sears/etc/roper_canada.pdf

Does your tractor feature in the attached brochure that I found via Google? If it is the 14 HP model that you have it is likely that you have a Tecumseh engine in your tractor. However this would need to be verified before trying to locate parts.
Re identification there should be some identification numbers located either on the engine block or the engine casing somewhere.

Good luck with your search.

[hillsider]

It could be worthwhile contacting the chap at Saving Old Seagulls as I have seen from his spares pages that some models of Seagull outboards use a twin jet Amal carb very similar to the one that you are seeking jets for, he is also suggesting that brass radiator bleed keys can be used to remove the jets with modification.
You would need to check the jet dimension as I very much doubt that he will have a parts cross reference from Seagull to Simar!

http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/index.html

[hillsider]

I did wonder if you had found the site, it must be about the most complete collection of information that you could find re your mower.
It would seem that there is a following for these machines over the pond I also found a couple of sites offering spares but then I guess you will have a had trawl around also.
Good to see that it is still a work in progress project.
Ray.

[hillsider]

http://www.myelec-traks.com/index.html

Have you found the info featured on this site?

[hillsider]

Afraid to say there is a spam post still lurking in the General Talk and Discussion forum in the Hello to Everyone thread.

[hillsider]

I see the spammer is still with us, tenacious bunch aren’t they!!

[hillsider]

If I understand the story correctly both are correctly known as Sloper engines, the earlier engines were built, badged and sold by BSA and apart from the recoil start assembly I can’t think of many if any differences to the Villiers version of the engine.

If anyone can add to this historical thread I too would be interested to know more.

[hillsider]

Like you I think it is a great shame that the curtain has closed on F&HE magazine as we know it and we can only wait and see just how many pages will be devoted to our subject in future issues of the Tractor and Machinery magazine.
I also think it is rather unfortunate that the T&M editor does not see fit to make reference to the changes in his editorial piece at the front of the magazine where he could have taken the opportunity to use a few well chosen words to reassure readers about the way forward.

[hillsider]

I guess tank size could be a problem when cleaning long items but have you considered trying an ultrasonic cleaner as sold by Maplin etc they work brilliantly on carburettor bodies and brass jets but I have not tried cleaning a large piece of brass yet, if I can find a suitable test piece I shall give it try for you and report back.
The manual that came with my tank suggests that when cleaning larger items that are not covered by the fluid you can do one half first then turn the piece over so that could be an answer for cleaning syringes.

[hillsider]

From memory the impeller will have a parallel shaft with a square section keyway and the nut is separate from the impeller and has a lock washer securing it.
I have just been having a rummage among some books that I have from my days working on such things and found a cross sectional parts diagram for the pumps that Lister Blackstone used and while it is similar in construction of the impeller arrangement the pump body and drive arrangement is completely different so probably not really much help to you.

Just a thought but I seem to recall that the pump is fitted to a Briggs and Stratton engine, have you thought of looking up the engine using the Model, Type and Code numbers stamped on the flywheel housing from those numbers we may be able to find out what the drive end of the crankshaft is, this could help with the dismantling process.

[hillsider]

I have seen Pegson pumps as fitted to Blackstone marine diesel engines and just to be helpful they can be left or right handed dependent on the engine direction so tread care fully when you attack the impeller nut, I would suggest you lock the impeller (not the engine) and shock the spanner or socket with a hammer to release it. The two holes in the impeller are there to use as puller holes so that should help, also looks as though you still have the impeller shroud still in place on the centre boss of the impeller this may be why it was seized and could release with some heat.
Good luck Ray.

[hillsider]

According to information contained in the book Seventy Years Of Garden Machinery by the author Brian Bell the Ransomes Model Fourteen (petrol and an electric version) was introduced in 1964 and was in production until 1969 when it was withdrawn.
The book also states that earlier versions of this mower used a BSA 65cc four stroke engine but was later replaced by a 65cc Villiers engine.
From what I have seen I suspect that the change of engine was more of a name change than an engine swap, maybe Angus will throw some more light on the subject with his research.
Just one question though, I have one of these engines on a Ransomes Sprite mower and the fuel tap is located inside the filler neck of the fuel tank as I found out when the sealing washer split and I could not find the fuel tap! Are all versions of this engine equipped this way?

[hillsider]

Pleased to help and good to hear that all went well with the seal fitting.
Ray.

[hillsider]

Consulting the manual is always a good way to go, we shall then see if my ideas hold water.

[hillsider]

Whilst not familiar with the sealing arrangement used on your Honda, to fall back on general engineering experience I would ask what material is the inner seal carrier made from? If it is metal then I would use a sleeve and bush retainer from the likes of Loctite or Granville, but you will only get one chance to position it correctly (this may also be the case with no sealant)
However if the seal carrier is rubber coated metal then it will probably seal ok dry, also from the sizes that you have quoted the fit on the shaft will be pretty tight.

Sleeve and bush retainer will not only keep the inner seal carrier from rotating on the inner shaft but it will act as an effective sealant against oil leakage, this could also be helpful for sealing the outer seal to the drive housing.

If you can do it a picture of the new seal assembly and its intended location would help to confirm my thoughts.

Hope this helps
Ray.

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