[hillsider]

I guess the thinking is that dealer tests the fuel and convinces his customer that he desperately needs the fuel treatment. Which is a shame as I would have thought that the tester would sell equally as well as the preservative will?

[hillsider]

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/jpl-seaclean-2-double-strength-concentrate-05l-a76lg

I use the the Seaclean product available from either the company in the above link or via the internet in my U/S cleaner and it works fine. The issue of cost over capacity is a major deciding factor with these machines, I settled on the 2.5Ltr heated machine from Maplin and have been pleased with it so far.

Angus, were you thinking of this product
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/sea-foamreg%3B-motor-treatment-for-gas-and-diesel-engines-16-oz.
It seems to be used as a cure all for most problems over here, but the last time I looked it was quite dear in the UK if you can find it!

[hillsider]

In addition to Joe’s suggestion you are probably aware that the emulsion tube needs to be removed before you can seperate the float chamber away from the upper body. Be carefull before assemby to ensure that all passageways are clear and set the ide and main mixture screws to a base position of one and a half turns open from the lightly closed position.
This shuld allw the engne run and fna adjustment can be made when at operating temperature
Ray.

[hillsider]

Hello Kevin,
There are a few things that could cause your problem, it would be helpful if you could post the Model, Type and Code numbers for the engine then we can look up the correct manual for your engine and can hopefully give you better advice.

Ray.

[hillsider]

Good luck with the ploughing, hope you remembered to take a spare spark plug.
Ray.

[hillsider]

Well found, you have identified that your machine has a Tecumseh OH140 overhead valve cast iron engine fitted. This seems to be the engine that was fitted as standard from the information we have uncovered so far unfortunately from what I have seen listed the standard exhausts listed for this engine don’t seem to match the remains of the exhaust on your engine. This leads me to think that you need to be exploring websites supplying Roper parts, this may well lead you across the Atlantic.

You may have difficulty in locating some parts for this engine as I understand that Tecumseh are no longer building engines, hopefully someone will correct me if I am incorrect.

Re the Tecumseh engine there is a good source of information at Meetens Engines they will be able to advise you on parts availability.
http://www.meetens.co.uk/

You may find this manual helpful, it contains a lot of general information about the engine you have including how to identify it and find its build date.
http://www.tecumsehpower.com/CustomerService/BSI.pdf

[hillsider]

Also checkout the unused keyway on the crankshaft if it is of the same dimension you could try the fit of that one after cleaning up where the grub screw has bruised the edge of the keyway.
This may also reposition where the grub screws fall onto the shaft perhaps missing the open keyway, also you still have the option of using Loctite to supplement the fit of the key and securing screws. The use of Loctite will give the result that you are seeking and I am sure it can be heated to allow dismantling if required in the future.
There is also medium strength version of this product but my instinct would be to use the high strength version to cope with the loading.

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Engineers+Adhesives-Loctite/c4460_4594/p340252/Loctite+603+High+Strength+Retaining+Compound+10ml/product_info.html

[hillsider]

The easiest route to get to the loose clutch flywheel is to remove the four engine fixing bolts taking care to watch for any pieces of packing that may sit between the engine and the bed plate. Then slide engine away from the drive shaft. You should the be able to see problem.

The advice given by wristpin is the exactly the way to go.

[hillsider]

Shocking the broken sprocket with a hammer and a punch could help it to slacken but you would need to ensure that the shaft was held securely with a large pair of stillsons.

[hillsider]

They are certainly loaded with Tomatoes, what are you feeding them on to get a result like that? Let’s hope they all ripen ok.

[hillsider]

Sorry I can’t help with a photograph but the Old Lawnmower Club Directory of Lawnmowers describes the Greens Centenary as a low cost manual roller mower available only in a twelve inch cut. The Centenary was produced in the 1930’s and in 1935 cost Three Pounds. Three Shillings. Including the grass box.

[hillsider]

That’s ok, I am sure you will find some sort of identification numbers on the engine -probably on the flywheel cowling. There is section in the engine info link that describes what you are looking for and where is will be located.
Ray.

[hillsider]

Before getting too involved you definitely need to confirm the make and type of engine fitted to you tractor, from the info that I can find via Google it seems as though the engine should be Tecumseh OH140. The numbers that you have located would seem to refer to the chassis rather than the engine, hopefully the attached links may help you to identify it for certain.

http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/001/5/4/1548-roper-t4328-engine.html

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecumseh-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/TECUMSEH-SERVICE–REPAIR-MANUAL-VH80-VH100-HH80-HH100-HH120-OH120-OH140-OH160-OH180-8HP-THRU-18HP-CAST-IRON-ENGINES-691462A.pdf

Re the silencer it may or may not be peculiar to the roper application but you stand more chance of sourcing one if you positively identify the engine. There are several options of extended exhaust for Tecumseh engines shown on USA websites.
If you are able to positively identify the engine you may find that a company such as Meetens Engines will be able to help tracking one down.

[hillsider]

I have it bookmarked to watch or record, as you say it should be interesting, I imagine that there will be a few cranes and heavy lifts to keep the interest factor up.

[hillsider]

These companies may be able to help with a small order but I bet it comes at a cost!

I have used Sampson Challis back in the days when they were JW Challis for the supply of gasket materials but you would need to check to see if they can still make small quantities of cut gaskets.

http://www.sampsonchallis.com

http://www.classicenginesandspares.co.uk/gaskets.html

http://www.stephensgaskets.co.uk/index.php

Good luck.

[Author]

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