[hillsider]

Seasons greetings to all for Christmas and the New Year.
Ray.

[hillsider]

You could try Springmasters for the springs that you need, do be careful of minimum order quantities though, you might need to buy a selection box to get value for money.

https://www.springmasters.com/index.html

[hillsider]

That is exactly what I have done with Kubotas that I have worked on in the past, from memory the new carbs are quite reasonably priced and if you cost your time and the cost of repair parts you have probably saved yourself some money.
I do realise though that simply fitting replacement parts does not always sit comfortably with the mend it philosophy that we tend to have but sometimes common sense has to prevail.

[hillsider]

I am planning to drop in to see you for a few hours around noon onwards on Sunday.
It would be good to see you get a good turn out.

[hillsider]

Good news re your pump, I guess that the problem could have been any one of the things you have done or even a bit of leakage on all of the items either way problem solved without dismantling the pump. The snap type couplings are certainly an improvement over the traditional screw type.

[hillsider]

It is most unusual to have no seal at all on a centrifugal pump such as yours but we live and learn.
The fact that there is a grease cup feeding the seal indicates the presence of a seal of some description and yes charging it with grease will improve the seal for a while. It would be a great help if there was a parts diagram that we could look at, failing that perhaps if you do need to open it up you could post a photo or two of the pump and its internals including the area where the shaft enters the back of the pump body.

[hillsider]

The couplings don’t rely on the threads to provide the seal, that is normally taken care of by a rubber or leather washer that sits in the bottom of the female half of the coupling.

Re the rubber seal that you described as located on the shaft between the engine and the pump body that is almost certainly just a thrower seal that deflects any leakage from the gland seal preventing it from damaging the engine. The gland seal is possibly a carbon ceramic face type of seal and is totaly contained within the pump if the pump has not been used for some time it may be that the seal has become stuck to the shaft preventing the tensioning spring from pushing the seal faces together.

[hillsider]

Assuming that all checks out ok with the suggestions made so far and the pump is still not working the next place to look is the drive shaft gland seal, if that has failed the pump will not prime no matter how hard you try.

[hillsider]

Thanks for the info that will be a great help.

[hillsider]

Just a guess but the way those numbers are set out is it possible that 1 – 47 is the gear reduction ratio between the input and output shafts.

[hillsider]

I agree with wristpin’s comments and repeat thanks to all involved in making the event happen.

[hillsider]

Hope you get a good turnout for your efforts, I am planning to drop in for a few hours on Sunday – late morning.

[hillsider]

While in the clutch checking the shoes also check that the clutch shoes move freely on their pivot pins. If these are not moving freely the drive may not take up cleanly and will only drive the machine at higher engine speeds.

[hillsider]

Yes same message here, also deleted.

[hillsider]

If it helps a quick Google search found this:-

https://www.zenoah.co.jp/int/company/zenoah-brand/

It would appear that the Zenoah brand has been around for quite a while, then in 2007 became a partner company of Husqvarna.
I also found reference to the Danarm company being importers of Zenoah chainsaws in 1984 on page 202 of Fifty Years of Garden Machinery.

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