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Viewing 15 posts - 1,156 through 1,170 (of 4,573 total)
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  • #24826
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    The easiest thing to do is to pop the valve cover off and see that the valves aren’t stuck open. After that just remove the airshroud over the head and pop the head off and see what’s going on inside. Don’t worry about the head gasket as in almost every case these can be reused with a smear of jointing compound.

    #24824
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hi
    Serial number 195

    #24822
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    The size is in theory the same, it’s just originally the gem would of had Dunlop diamond pattern tyres. These tractor type patterns are just a lot chunkier on the cleats and often cause clearance issues on the near side. If you look at the bellhousing on this one you can see in the one place where the metal has slightly worn away due to rubage. Most Sachs diesels that I see have the inside edge of the cleats removed to overcome this problem.

    #24811
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Have now started fitting the gem back up. The first job was the wheels. Had a bit of trouble with the near side one as usual- such a pity you can no longer get the original Dunlop tyres, the used to fit a treat. In the end I’ve resorted to using another wheel disc to act as a spacer to get the necessary clearance(just) on the bellhousing but this in turn will mean that the springs need shortening. I have also refitted the radiator. After having a proper look at the bonnet now it has dried I’m hopping to get away with flattening it back with some 2500 wet and dry.

    Attachments:
    #24810
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Thanks Charlie, it’s getting there. You almost forget how time consuming a gem is to do. Still got another one to finish after this before Newbury.

    #24808
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    The axel/gearbox is the same make and numbers as the original the
    change over was a straight swop. I checked the belt for wear
    and all was ok. the brake was out off adjustment as it was on
    when finished the wheels where fast, but when i adjusted the brake and they turned.
    I will have another look at the belt route many thanks Davey

    #24791
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    At long last I’ve finally started making some proper progress. The main chasis was wire brushed down and then after what seemed like an enterinity the pipes and cables were masked up. The engine was etched primed then the whole thing was primed and sprayed in my favourite top coat colour. Overall I’m happy with the way everything has come out bar the bonnet which will need flat ting back and another top coat applied.

    Attachments:
    #24782
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Yes its a Mayfield Merlin in very poor shape. For parts only by the look of it

    I have seen a pic of it

    Its worth no more than £50 in that condition

    I am currently restoring 2 of these. Only taken 4 years so far!!

    #24781
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    I’ve not got the serial number yet but I’ll look into it! Do they have much value as it is?
    Thanks Richard

    #24777
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    This tractor

    Attachments:
    #24731
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hi all,

    Crawler had quite a bit of use last year, and now its time for some maintenence.

    A few questions.

    I currently have the Amal 356 Carb fitted, and am considering going back to the original setup. But first I need to aquire the original manifold. Anyone idea where I might get one? Anyone got a good one for sale?

    Secondly. my fuel copper fuel pipe has cracked at the join by the fuel pump with all the vibrations. It’s old, so I’m looking at replacing the whole thing. Can anyone clarify the threads at the fuel tank and pump end? I might order braided hose.

    Also, need to replace the rubber/metalstaic coupling soon. Any advice on this job? I understand Neil has these for sale?

    James

    #24719
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Another picture

    Attachments:
    #24714
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Ah Success the Flywheel can away with a few taps with the copper mallet . Coil is dated 1973 so is I thing original . Simple multi meter connected from the plug lead to the wire that runs to the Condenser does show some resistance but not sure what I am looking at Having got it all apart a new coil may be a wise investment. The Coil part number is 232901 or 238059 Kohler part 47-755-20 10mm square hole 27 mm approx high and around 41mm across I think looking at the replacements on the auction site, the one lead to the condenser will need to be lengthened, looks like some did this on mine originally too ! Kohler price is a staggering £169.00 The pattern is £29.00 Guess which I will fit . Yeap probably Chinese but hell hopefully will be mobile !!!

    Hey thanks for the help all I need now is to work out how to get to the drop box on here

    Have a great weekend and thank you

    #24712
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    im in the new forest, i have Henderson bearings in Ringwood and bsl in Southampton..the real problem I have is the belts were not the correct ones to start with, I don’t think they are wide enough…i.e they maybe the wrong section..can any bolens owner measure across the wide bit of the main drive belt please? Both my drive belts appear to be the same length, is this correct? Do the americans use a different u.s section to us? thanks steve

    #24711
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Stupid question Does the puller you suggest need to have a thread hole and bolt in the middle to bare on the crank rather like a 3 legged puller would ?

Viewing 15 posts - 1,156 through 1,170 (of 4,573 total)