[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie, I thought I would post an update!
The clutch is now finished, a local firm has crafted me a clutch plate from the same kind of material and I have resurfaced the clutch disks. The input shaft has been repaired and is ready to assemble with new sealed bearings and seals. The gearbox casings are at a fabricators and they are going to dress all the internal shafts as well as oversize the casing outputs and press in sleeves. I have dropped off the 030 oversize piston at the engine shop together with new big end and main bearings and hope to have that back next week.
A new old stock cylinder head has been found and I am now into the laborious task of cleaning up the mill!! So far so good!
Alastair.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi I’m close to you ( garway) but I’m afraid for the next month or so I’ve got to many issues going on to assist. If you can wait for a couple of months I’d be only to pleased to help. I’d bet that you will need a coil and maybe a condensor. If you wanted to do it yourself pm me your number and I’ll try and talk you through it over the phone.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Busman, there is a little play on the throttle butterfly shaft on all the carbs I’ve tried but nothing that I would deem to be excessive. I’ll try the WD40 trick tonight and report back.

Wristpin, Paul at Meetens said he stripped it apart, sonic cleaned it an then rebuilt it with new parts where needed. I have since found an old damaged seal on the cover plate to the idle jets from inside the float chamber. I suspect it could be drawing fuel up into to idle jets from the float chamber so I’ve managed to order a new o’ring seal 9.6mm od x 6.7mm id to rule this out, took some finding as it’s a really unusual size!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I had a similar problem with the Norton engine on my Trusty. I eventually tracked it down to the throttle butterfly shaft hole being slightly oval from years of vibration. This allowed air to be sucked in even when the throttle was fully closed. I could wind the main jet mixture screw all the way out and it would just about run, but soon as I opened the throttle, it would just die because of the excess amount of air being drawn in. If you haven’t already checked with the WD40, give it a squirt around the throttle butterfly.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi, sorry not been in touch re sachs pump, can you please resend pics my computer crashed and I have lost loads of things. Are you still willing to sell the pump for £90, my email address is maltbyliz@gmail.com.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve drawn a lite diagram of inside the carb. It’s a fairly simply one compared to car / bikes. The red bits are the plugs I’ve drilled out to check passages are clear and then resealed.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the reply Wristpin I tested around the inlet manifold gaskets with WD40 but no change in engine note so looks like the new ones i fitted when i did the exhaust valve spring are all good.

Still convinced it’s a fault with the carb somewhere, Saturday morning again i stripped it down and this time put the housing in a pan of boiling vinegar for 15 mins, plus following the advise from the man in Amersham who sells numerous bits for the Ransomes Triple and seems to know a lot about them, i drilled out the 2 seals fitted to the carburetor after it was machined at manufacture. This should once an for all rule out any blocked air or fuel passages in the carburetor as i can now push a small piece of copper wire down every one to guarantee they are clear. I then drilled and tapped them with an M4 tap and super glued stainless bolts back to reseal them. It took me almost 3 hours including air lining and repeated spraying with carb cleaner and rechecking with a torch and air line that all passages were clear. I refitted it to the engine and it’s still got the same problem. !?!??

I then spent another 2 hours adjusting the governor and throttle cable positions as well as the throttle stop and idle mixture screw.

Whatever i seemed to do the engine runs at a good fast speed with the throttle butterfly in the carb fully shut. It runs on a bit and then after 20-30 seconds begins to die and is normally unrecoverable no matter how much you reopen the throttle. There must be fuel leak somewhere in the carb as with the throttle butterfly fully shut, only the idle or pilot jet should be allowing a tiny amount of fuel into the venturi in the carb. Only when you open the throttle butterfly does the main jet come in to play?

I’m going to draw a sketch of how the carb’s designed to try and better understand it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy, I will contact them and see how we go 😉

[vhgmcbuddy]

Also I have an issue with the “choke elbow” casting which has broken (see pics) has anyone come across this item in the past or is it one of those “hens teeth” items? Cant find anything similar online.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I removed the valve access cover on the side of the engine and found a cracked exhaust valve spring. Removed the inlet and exhaust manifold and the head and replaced the cracked valve, rebuilt and the engine is running fine again, but still won’t idle if I adjust the tick over down it just stalls. I’ve reset the governor as per trusy220’s advise and still the same problem. Also I’ve still got the problem that the mixture screw on the carb has no effect on the running of the engine I can screw it all the was in and even remove it completely and the engine note doesn’t change a bit. I’m almost 100% convinced I’ve got a blockage somewhere in the carb but how else can I clean it apart from cutting it open?

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi charlie
lots! but i am on the disabled camping so a bit closer. i can bring what will fit on my 4 wheeled trolley together with a table to put it on so obviously no machines except maybe my ransomes lawn edger and a few tools etc.should be able to manage that and still have a reasonable display that won’t let the side down.
pete

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi,

How do I remove the flywheel to get to the points? I have removed all the tinwork etc, and have taken the cover off the points ( in a circular thing ) How do I remove the flywheel? I have taken out the bolt that held the pull cord assy on, but the flywheel doesn’t come off – I read that you have to tighten the bolt and it pulls the flywheel off the flange – is that correct? How do I ensure the timing isn’t altered? It’s not a Standard Fordson, that’s for sure!!

Laine

[vhgmcbuddy]

OK, after further investigation I can see that the two items in the picture above are the felt washer and outer space.
In order to access the actual oil seal I have to take off the end cap which is held on by 3 screw in bolts (In the picture they look like rivets as the screw heads are full of dirt and somewhat burred over.
Before I go to the trouble of attempting to remove the end cap (and potentially failing and/or ruin it) is there any mileage in trying a solution which when added to the tiller oil is supposed to stop oil seal leaks. Has any one ever tried this with any success, or is it not recommended?

I am looking at this option because no one seems to know the size of the oil seal, which I suppose means I might not be able to source one. (Has anyone here ever changed the tiller shaft oil seal on a clifford mk1?)

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi charlie
have got camping and tickets booked now just wondering how much space you have in and around the tent so i know what if anything i can bring with me
pete

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi charlie
i would like to go please a have a static display of old machines and implements etc. also camping with my motorhome is it too late to get me in? how and where can i get tickets?
pete
get me through here or pm me

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