[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes Ransomes did send out their staff to show how to use the machines, which in most cases happened to be the chauffeur to the estate.
This is why generally speaking these veteran motor mowers are now scarce to find, quite simply at the start of WW1 most engineers and chauffeurs were droughted to fight, with not many returning.
Even today its not a straight forward process to start them, as they can be cantankerous in different weathers.
Though on the scarcity issue we have just brought home the earliest known Thos Greens Motor Mower with tiller steering of 1905 complete with its original Hafner engine, photos to be shown soon

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looking good, much improved from when I first got an image of it!!
Will email you direct, may be able to help

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Ted, It has been running but the clutch has been playing up. It is fitted with a Briggs and Stratton and does have clutch material. How do you reface the material? Please.

[vhgmcbuddy]

first of all has it been standing for a while if so it is a good guess the clutch material has expanded the way to cure it is to strip clutch and reface the clutch material again you do not say what engine is fitted the above applies to Kohler engine Iam not sure about Briggs and Stratton variant

[vhgmcbuddy]

A ohoto would help to identify but if it is correct number it could be 1940,s Mk2

[vhgmcbuddy]

It’s also worth remembering that by using the module you will have done away with the governor system.

There is a way around that but whether its worth the faff is another matter. It basically involves leaving the points in place, disconnecting the condenser and mounting the module of choice out side the magneto. The points are re-purposed to act as a governor controlled cut out.

Whether “snake oil or sliced bread depends on the situation. The two currently available aftermarket trigger modules, Mova and Meco are not total “snake oil” as they do work well on many engines. Equally they aren’t all “sliced bread” as they wont perform on some engines. I have fitted many Mecos to Villiers F12s and 15s with absolute reliability and I know people who swear by the Nova for old cast iron single pot Kohlers.

Interestingly, while the Nova and Meco modules are sold as one size fits all, back in the 80s the Australian made Atom modules came in different colours and characteristics. The ones most commonly seen in the UK was the brown type 9 for chainsaws, brush cutters and other high revving two strokes. The blue type 7 was as near a general purpose as they got and the green type 5 was recommended for post 1960 Briggs with two leg armatures. Being Australian they did a special for the uncommon in the UK twin cylinder Victa.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The only chap at the “ big houses” with mechanical experience was usually the chauffeur who was in charge of the mower and perhaps the generator for the house.
In 1981, at a stately home nearby to me, the retired chauffeur who lived on the estate, was still in charge of their Dennis that had arrived new just pre WW2.

[vhgmcbuddy]

It also looks as though it is fitted with a modern replacement coil. I think that step one will be to get that coil tested. You don’t mention a condenser but if you also have that, I would get that tested as well. If both the coil and the condenser have tested out ok, I would clean the points and reassemble the mag to original setting with its original components. If that gets it running it’s then up to you whether you stick with it or try the module again.
I know that those Nova ignition trigger modules are marked + and – but I suppose that your issue may have just been one of incorrect polarity.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Wise words indeed Mr F. – thank you. I can’t remember how I did the original timing but I’ve just pulled it apart and worked back from basics. No longer snatches the rope and runs considerably smoother – not in the F15 class but perfectly useable.
When rain stops work in the garden I will turn my attention to the spare engine, a gift of unknown origin.
Interesting that you mentioned the Webb 24: I inherited one in a house move in the late 60s that had thrown a rod and been re- engined with a Tecumseh H40; a truly horrible lump with a carb that dripped fuel on to the rubber covered rear roller with a predictable result. I first made a drip tray to go under the engine but soon gave it a 5HP BS which turned it into the mower that it should have been. The belt driven Webb24 was an under rated favourite of mine which got a bad reputation because, even some in the trade, didn’t understand how to set up the belts properly – not helped by a diagram in the owner’s handbook showing a belt keeper at exactly the wrong angle where it could cause the most wear.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi
If you look under my other post Wrigley autotruck with Villiers Mk25 engine there are some pictures.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank, That may be obvious but worth giving it a go. I think that I tried it before setting the project aside but well worth another go . Shame that it’s not as easy as just rotating a distributor a degree or two. I’ve got a complete spare engine so I may bolt that down to the test bench and have a play. Watch this space.

The Anzani is, as you observe a bit of a beast. It’s built like a battle ship and the amount of wasting on the chassis side exposed to the weather would have been the finish of many a lesser machine. It’s actually a very simple design: the cutter unit is identical to the one that they used on their “ articulated” rider.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The only time that I’ve seen a Western was at a trade show, maybe Windsor IOG or even back at Motspur Park in the 70s. Your two images show a 1975 Briggs and Stratton engine but, of course , may not be original. Wonder whether there was any connection with the Webb / Merrytiller Wizard ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi and thanks for the reply.

The machine is not complete so I will be making collars etc to carry the cylinder i have to sharpen. Also any guides etc that might be needed.

I’m hoping to find a copy of the instructions or at least a scan of them so I can set it up correctly.

Does the cylinder turn against an indexing stop which is fitted at the side of the grind stone? I have a tool and cutter grinder that sharpens spiral Mills in that way.

I’ve never looked at the blade geometry of a cylinder and bottom blade so getting the angles right will be my priority.

My email is mickseven9@yahoo.co.uk if you need to mail me direct with any answers to my wondering. It would be good to learn from someone who knows the nachine well.

Best regards Mick

[vhgmcbuddy]

The first ATCOs were American imports from the late 1970s to 1986 and included several model numbers including 11/36 and 11/36E.

They were, I believe, Dynamarks, as were the first Westwoods. Two UK brands that used those US manufactured machines to kick start their ride-on offering. We serviced both the US and UK built Atcos and both left a fair bit to be desired – particularly Atco’s effort to build a power driven sweeper/ collector.
At one point Atco were owned by Blur Circle (yes, the cement company) and one of their directors was a customer running their latest offering on his country estate and I had to be uncharacteristically diplomatic about his “ heap of ****” . However, we did manage to replace it with a Cub Cadet and they still run a Cub to this day.

[vhgmcbuddy]

You are correct in your assumption that it is a single blade grinder and the blades are moved or indexed under the grinding wheel one at a time. It can also be set up to reface the bottom blade or bedknife and it looks as it is set for that operation at present.
For cylinder grinding it’s mounted between centres and each blade in turn rotated against an adjustable stop so as to present the cutting edge to the wheel at the correct angle while the wheel is traversed along its length.
I’ve got another version of your machine that I use solely for bottom blades up to 24” and another model BRL that has 36” spin grinding capability as well as bottom blades.
The original manufacturer of your machine was Blakesley and Reid who also made sharpening equipment for sheep shears. In the late 60s / 70s they became BRL and went through a couple of changes in ownership, finally disappearing in the 80s.
My 36″ machine in action.

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