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Viewing 15 posts - 1,171 through 1,185 (of 4,573 total)
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  • #24710
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    I would say the plough is fine to use on your allotment . The tiller extensions should be OK too , of course, it depends on the condition of the engine . The 350 is a Howard and they are well made compared to a lot of machines . I have been looking for some Spade lug type wheels for mine, as this would help with ploughing . You will need to try it out , and adjust the plough to suit your soil. Your planned use is absolutely what the machine was designed for Watch out for buried treasure if you have recently taken on the allotment. If the plough hits something buried the machine will kick and that hurts. My Howard has only tried to kill me twice so far so be warned !!

    Have fun and stay safe .

    #24709
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Wristspin Thanks for the advice

    I will make up a puller and try what you have suggested . My belief is the local machinery shop had a hydraulic puller .

    Spark with the points cover removed . OK so cover is off, if I turn the engine over , there should be a spark at the points ? IE they should be live . I did disconnect the kill switch at the Condenser, just to eliminate and track to earth in that one no joy there . Like I said , I have swapped the condenser .

    Thanks again

    #24704
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Local motor factors will only stock set sizes for vechiles, best bet will be a bearing or drive trian speclist. Where abouts in the country are you? Theres a very good company near me in hull,

    #24701
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hi moggyjim

    You will need to take off the Rotors and there should be a little piece of treadded bar with two metal caps on tha fits oner th splines on the rotor drive one the rotors are gone This is important to stop the dirt getting inside the chaincase and it also preserves the seals Simple enough to make if you don’t have one . There should be a plough hitch that fits onto the Chain case and this is what the Plough bolts to . There should also be a t least one wheel extension which you fit to the right hand wheel viewed from the back of the machine , and there should be a piece of box section that fits on the front of the machine and a very heavy counter weight to fit on to the box section. You also need the coupling that fits the plough to the hitch as this allows you to adjust the plough

    Don’t be too eager , this will not turn over virgin ground like a Trusty !!! It works OK on garden or allotment but if you plan to use it to turn a grass area , lawn what have you into ploughed soil buy a bigger machine . I have the front weight and wheel weights on mine and it still struggles for grip Select the lowest gear too, Small engine pulley to largest machine pulley . And eat a whole box of Weetabix before you start !!

    Martin

    #24699
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    thanks stew, I tried the local motor factors and they nearly got it right, Henderson bearings on Monday, the trouble is they are not that easy to change, so I relly need to get the correct ones first time round…

    #24698
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    I’ve come up against them on numerous occasions so I would say that they aren’t home made. But going through all my manuals I’ve not yet found any reference to them.

    #24695
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Could the solid centre component allow better weight support / distribution when using equipment on soft ground e.g. Ruts formed by wheel tyres aren’t so deep in soft ground?

    Keith

    #24691
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    If you can get the distance centre to centre of the shafts and the diameters of the two pulleys, most bearing specialists will be able to give you the correct belt. And type. Will most probably be a spz v belt.

    Hope this helps

    #24690
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Il will have a look where abouts will it be? There is a number on the o/s of engine block. 1964. But will have another look if you can point me in the rigth place. Is there anyway of finding any history on it?

    #24688
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hello everyone sorry to intrupt i have been having a play with my mg5 after winter and have found the serial nu of 3512 wonder if anyone could give me some in on it?

    #24686
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    What would you suggest my next move is m8 ?

    #24677
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Heres a general look at the condition of the barrel and piston , measurements of the gap between the rings to follow .

    Attachments:
    #24676
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Cheers m8 , im picking up some imperial feeler gauges later so im going to take the cylinder barrel off ready to measure the gap on the rings.

    #24673
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    The coil tested OK, the condenser had failed. John fitted a new one with a new L/T lead and cleaned the points. The coil is one of those cheap chinese jobs which i will be replacing for the correct one i think. I also got a new ht lead which was an absolute git to screw onto the Armature Plate , but i managed to get it screwed in with a little help. I believe the threads on the plate are not in ideal condition,but its in now and i hope it doesnt need to come off anytime soon.
    If you could remind me andy of those couple of places that i could probably find newer coils and spares at id be very greatfull , i forgot the names of them after meeting you at the weekend . All that country air must have cleaned out my memory bank haha . cheers..

    #24670
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    ref andy 2

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Viewing 15 posts - 1,171 through 1,185 (of 4,573 total)