[vhgmcbuddy]

Great stuff angus thats very informative.will post a photo on here and then you can see it in the flesh. What does it do ? Its a mystery no other mower i own has this on it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Still got a small torch bulb and battery I rigged up years ago to determine points opening, But something like that gadget Angus just connect to the HT lot simpler.

[vhgmcbuddy]

In the late 60s I bought a gadget from the now defunct Rupert Ledger company that connected to the HT lead and a good earth and emitted a tone which changed at the point where the contact breaker points opened and closed. This leaves the hands free to hold/tighten the flywheel – no fag paper required. Once one gets used to the change of tone it gives a good indication of clean/dirty points. A sharp change equates to clean points and a “smeared” change, dirty. No change of town and there is definitely something amiss such as a shorted capacitor.So as well as setting timing it is a useful diagnostic tool.
Mine is in a substantial metal case about twice the size of a cigarette packet but I’m sure that with modern electronics someone with the right ‘ology could reproduce and miniaturise it now.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Send an image of said protruding cylinder on back of chain case – can’t envisage it at present but will see if the parts list reminds me.
Second thoughts do you mean on the left hand side top of the chain case. If so it is the dog clutch for the cutting cylinder drive to allow the machine to be motored without the cylinder running. Pull it out against spring pressure and rotate it and it should lock out. Have known them to be worn and refuse to stay out or to jump and rattle and not stay in drive under load.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nuammfxdhmyseeq/Atco%20HD28-34-Villiers0001.pdf

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the hot tip angus will not forget. Tell me what is that protruding cyclinder for at the back of the chaincase

[vhgmcbuddy]

Just be aware that those cone clutches tend to be a bit sharp and either in or out and from memory the machine is quite high geared! Also you will see that there is a lubrication hole in the clutch drum covered by a small countersunk screw – do NOT put more than a couple of drops of oil down this screw hole because if you contaminate the cast iron cone and concave with oil they are a pig to “dry out”. Many years ago I had a customer leave his machine outside over winter standing on soil under a tarpaulin. The clutch seized and he soaked it in oil before calling us. We washed it all out and got it all working fine – so we thought. However as the clutch warmed up it “sweated” more oil that had been absorbed into the cone and concave material and we ended up having to dismantle it all again and heat both components up enough to drive the oil out and then wash it in solvent to clean it all up.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Sounds like a good project Alan, and would work out cheaper than 6 car batteries !!

I have managed to acquire some Elec Trak literature from you know where, sods law not on the E10M though, there’s info on the E8M and the larger models…

[vhgmcbuddy]

Alan,i like your reasoning on the mobile self charging theory and have you made any more progress on this ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

yes Ray I spotted that as well. .its just worth knowing as when it comes to trying it out in the garden next door,as I will have difficulty manovering here, any teething troubles will probably be associated with this governor. Was lucky to get the use of an industrial steam cleaner before the Christmas break and have managed at last to get the rolling chassis squeaky clean. now it looks as if the end of the shed will have to be removed to get it in.

[vhgmcbuddy]

this is going to be the best one I have seen so far,must be handy to have lath skills when restoring as money can be saved on farming out to engineers. superb !

[vhgmcbuddy]

I know where that is, I grew up in Wroughton, not far away. Used to cycle all around that area

[vhgmcbuddy]

thanks for the info of your experieces with this type of wheel combination. I suppose the different climates between G.B and AUS makes all the difference to how you go about your farming globaly. But I will add that using any machine in over wet conditions will ,like you say pick up soil/mud and also cause a ” PAN” effect in the soil structure once the tractor has passed along a given route.

[vhgmcbuddy]

the show is held at lottmead farm P.Y.O Hence straw berries and steam The farm also has a small air strip so the owner is usually buzzing around in a biplane. Ten mins away is a car boot for the early birds. Last year we installed a raised viewing platform in the trees by the steam driven rack bench so lots to see and eat..

[vhgmcbuddy]

Managed to clean up the fuel tank and get all the muck and rust out from inside! a long job, also snapped of the lever on the tap which was seized up, but made a new part on the lathe..

[vhgmcbuddy]

REf the chamberlin tractor it would be no good over here many year’s i had to fit wider wheel spacer’s to a Ford FW30 [steiger american tractor sprayed blue]about 265hp it started off with single wheel’s then double’s using spacer’s between the wheel’s but when it was being used on an old hop farm in Kent and it was wet the space between the wheel’s picked up load’s of mud this meant less traction so the brain’s at Ford’s asked our firm to fit wider spacer’s a day’s work which gave the wheel’s a chance to pick up even more mud!! and it was not until wider tyre’s [super single’s] which were about 1.5 time’s the width of the original’s did it help to cure the problem these tractor’s are drawbar machine’s ideal to pull stuff but not like our one’s which use three point linkage on the hydraulic’s to lift implement’s and can use this system to increase traction.i have seen an early Fw30 try to pull two Micheal More mole plough’s it just sat there and spun the wheel’s.

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