[vhgmcbuddy]

Perfect . Thanks for that .

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi it’s Will thanks for that I might give them a call to see if they can give me the dimensions. They call them an A MBA4771 which is the old Ransomes part number. The belt that’s on there now is about 4 mm narrower than the other belt on there. I imagine the 2 belts should be the same width and the narrow belt sits too deep in the pulley so explains why the engine is as far forward as it will go and the tensioner is fully adjusted and still too loose.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve used PIX from Simply Bearings on smaller machines and they’ve been fine, and SB are a good firm to deal with . Unless anyone knows from personal experience that the PIX is no good, and it looks dimensionally correct , I’d be inclined to take a punt. If when it arrives, it’s obviously incorrect, my experience is that SB will take it back.
,

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi it’s Will I found a company called L&s engineering they can get a clutch but it’s over a hundred pounds which is more than the machine is worth even If it’s running. I’m going to see if I can get the old one relined but it’s looking like a scrapper unfortunately.
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi all I have pretty much sorted the motor triple to a working machine it even has a working hand brake but it needs a new engine drive belt. The one that’s on there is too narrow so even fully adjusted the belt is too loose to work properly. I contacted Ernest Does for a genuine belt and they quoted £130 plus vat for a genuine one but then said you could just buy a non genuine one for £54. I have seen some on eBay for £38 and simply bearings do one with the correct part number for around £28 it’s a Pix belt. My question is what do I go for? £130 is a bit steep and even the man at Does advised against it so what should I go for I font want to pay more than necessary but I don’t want to go cheap and find it is no good. Any thoughts?
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi yes this is an electronic ignition one the friction linings have completely gone most of the lining is distributed as dust in the housing. I think it’s been used helicopter style as we used to call it. Too much line out and too heavy line as well so it’s destroyed the clutch.

[vhgmcbuddy]

What part of the country are you in? It does seem that the only galvaniser within fifty miles is only interested in truck loads of railings and structural steel etc.
As said for powder coating, not suitable for decks and most of the rest on a ride-ons. Once the moisture and consequent rust has penetrated and crept under it, the pressure washer brings it off in sheets. UK manufactured stuff was particularly bad ; US stuff was a bit more durable, but perhaps my experience (1980 – 2012) is a bit dated now.

[vhgmcbuddy]

When inflating tyres, on split rims or otherwise, the wheel, fitted to the machine, or loose, should always be end on and not facing the operator. That way, should the unexpected happen the rims or the tyre will be propelled out sideways and not towards the operator. Larger sized tyres should be inflated in a cage to contain the rims or the tyre in the event of a burst.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Coborn (Browett and Lindley) were taken over by Petters Ltd after the 2nd world war. You could try the Internal Fire Museum in W Wales who have the Petter engine records and may have got some records for Coborn engines in with them.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Nothing like the sound of an old Cat lugged down from its 800 rpm rated speed !

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi. No I don’t have the info plate on mine. So I don’t know how to date them. Sorry.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Paul, Do you still have the plates? Just acquired a c3 yesterday. Do you know how to find out the age from the serial number?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello, will I be sent one on a trial membership

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes looking for more smiley faces for this years event, those of you who go to Dorset are welcome too. I wont cramp your style like that event!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ok thanks Charlie

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