More motor triple questions.

[trusty220]

It looks like the hub and disc are only held on the shaft with the large centre nut. It looks like a parallel sided shaft with a single key but it will be stubborn to remove. I’d only persevere with it if it was absolutely necessary.

Good luck, you know we’re here if you want help.

[disco2]

Hi Trusty my original thought was that the discs are quite pitted from where it’s been sitting. I put new pads in but was thinking of giving them a light skim on the lathe to perhaps make them work better and so they don’t wear out the new pads. I alight see if I can give them a clean up in situ I have a feeling I will have trouble getting them off and as you say they were never great at stopping so might not gain much for my efforts either.
Best wishes William

[trusty220]

Don’t forget that the disc is made as part of the wheel hub and the whole lot is made from cast iron, so be very careful if you use a puller on it as it will not stand much abuse.

All we used to do was to give them a rub up with a flat file to take any high spots off. They aren’t high speed brakes and a light pressure on the brake pedal whilst you’re driving the triple around the yard would be sufficient to give them a braking surface.

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will I had another look at the discs and gave them a clean up with a file then some emery cloth trapped between the pads and disc while rotating the disc and they cleaned up pretty well. I took your advice and left the discs in situ I could see a disaster coming and it didn’t seem worth the risk. Got the last reel adjuster free now so it’s sort out a couple of belts and it should be good to go.
Thanks for your help and advice as always it’s much appreciated
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi all I have pretty much sorted the motor triple to a working machine it even has a working hand brake but it needs a new engine drive belt. The one that’s on there is too narrow so even fully adjusted the belt is too loose to work properly. I contacted Ernest Does for a genuine belt and they quoted £130 plus vat for a genuine one but then said you could just buy a non genuine one for £54. I have seen some on eBay for £38 and simply bearings do one with the correct part number for around £28 it’s a Pix belt. My question is what do I go for? £130 is a bit steep and even the man at Does advised against it so what should I go for I font want to pay more than necessary but I don’t want to go cheap and find it is no good. Any thoughts?
Best wishes William

[wristpin]

I’ve used PIX from Simply Bearings on smaller machines and they’ve been fine, and SB are a good firm to deal with . Unless anyone knows from personal experience that the PIX is no good, and it looks dimensionally correct , I’d be inclined to take a punt. If when it arrives, it’s obviously incorrect, my experience is that SB will take it back.
,

[trusty220]

I’ll go along with your advice, Angus. When Ransomes had stock of those belts they were never cheap, so if the non-genuine ones are the same dimensions then I’d give them a try.

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will thanks for that I might give them a call to see if they can give me the dimensions. They call them an A MBA4771 which is the old Ransomes part number. The belt that’s on there now is about 4 mm narrower than the other belt on there. I imagine the 2 belts should be the same width and the narrow belt sits too deep in the pulley so explains why the engine is as far forward as it will go and the tensioner is fully adjusted and still too loose.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[trusty220]

Both belts should be the same cross-section and it sounds like the Variator Pulley>Gearbox Pulley belt is still original, so at least you’ve got some dimensions.

By the way- your part number is incorrect; it should read MBA4471 for the engine drive and MBA4472 for the gearbox drive belt. The parts listing doesn’t give dimensions, just the description which reads, “Vee Belt- Engine Drive”.

Best of luck.

[disco2]

Hi yes as you said the part number in the parts list is MBA4471 the A MBA4471 IS the number listed on the pix belt. It’s sold as a replacement for the Ransomes motor triple. I spoke to simply bearings who said they don’t have the dimensions but would measure them if I wanted. The belt to gearbox is an original it has the Ransomes name so I can check the width but I don’t know the length so I think I will order one and try it they said I can send it back if it’s not correct. I will let you know how I get on.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will just a quick update I purchased the belt from simply bearings £25ish and it’s the correct size and fits perfectly. It looks well made and worked fine yesterday so we will see how it fairs. I would say if anyone needs one it’s definitely worth a go.
Best wishes William

[trusty220]

It’s good to know that there’s a cheap alternative out there; the originals are well into three figures which puts them out of reach of the amateur restorer.

[andyfrost]

I’ve never been convinced about all this “genuine” belt mullarkey , I remain convinced that all manufacturers source belts from specialised people , dab an ernormous mark up on them , put them in fancy packaging and rip people off.
Better off going to a reputable belt stockist and save a small fortune.

Andy.

[trusty220]

I would agree with you, Andy. Ransomes don’t make belts and never have done, so they rely on specialist manufacturers to supply them. In this case, though, the belts are such an odd size that it is difficult to find somebody that still makes them.

[wristpin]

For “genuine” read “of the correct spec for the application”. If the job requires a Kevlar or Aramid belt it’s penny foolish to fit anything of lesser quality . Unless one wants to practice belt changing!

[Author]

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