[vhgmcbuddy]

From the history I found out I believe the F 90 was launched after the F80. So the lineup was F150 1958 production starts Then improve the model to the F190 more powerful 7 hp Then the F80 With even more power, which I believe is 8 hp Then they introduced the F90 diesel I believe production lasted a total of 13 years

[vhgmcbuddy]

I am still struggling to remove the wheels on this machine. Mine does not seem to have hex grub screws in the hubs. I think I can see the surface of the axle at the bottom of the hole. So either I removed these screws in some previous attempt (and forgot doing it), or it never had them when I got the mower. Does anyone know what the thread of these screws is? If so I can try to replace them.

I have tried hammering a steel wedge into the gap between the gib key head and the hub, but the key has shown absolutely no sign of moving. This seems to me a pretty drastic treatment, and if this did not move the key, I’m not sure that a puller would do any better.

Can anyone suggest a more effective way of getting these keys out? If I can’t shift them, then the mower is basically scrap metal 🙁

Thank you – Rowan

[vhgmcbuddy]

I had thought of making a new lining, but the material is another issue. It would have to be something that is not going to wear the steel outer cone, and is pliable enough to bend. Don’t know what was originally used.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy

[vhgmcbuddy]

further photo

Attachments:

1. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

Trying to attach photos, note pull start is at rear of engine, trying to identify engine

Attachments:

1. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

Andy attaching photos

[vhgmcbuddy]

£100 to £150….

[vhgmcbuddy]

OK, I put it all back together, and it does not seem to be slipping. I see that relined cone clutches are £200 to £150ish!

[vhgmcbuddy]

The light dawns (I think). The pitted piece is the corroded end of end of a long inner race for the bearing (INA NK37/30 Needle Roller Bearing). Unfortunately I’ve just put it all back together so can’t measure it. If anyone knows, a note here would be excellent 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Andy, thanks for your help. EG Coles put me in touch with Hurley Engine Services where Jack was very helpful and I have a new carburetor and fuel tap on order. Contact details are 01225336812 or jack.braine@hurleyengines.co.uk

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

Right story so far….

Did a compression test and had no compression on 1 cylinder. I have had the head off and reground all valves in as 1 was looking like it wasn’t seating properly. I now have compression on both cylinders. I haven’t tried to run it yet as all the exhaust/inlet gaskets have fell to bits and was letting exhast and inlet mix.

Would anyone know where to get inlet gaskets from and possibly the 1 between manifold and silencer?

I will also be sending my carb off to have some magic worked on it at Villiersparts. Thanks for the lead Andy.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I take it this is the part number I am looking for? Is this the same carb that normally on the 810cc?

Attachments:

1. 
2. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

It’s a bit of a head scratcher this end too mate. It got put into dry storage a year ago. We collected it a few weeks back and obviously any fuel etc had gone stale. we cleaned the carb out and flushed the tank and it ran fine. We returned a couple of days later to run it up and then take to the allotment and it was running but the hunting almost with the governor controlling the revs a lot which it never used to. Now it only wants to run on choke and spits back every now and then through the air filter. I have a compression tester coming this afternoon so will try test and report back. also like I said it won’t hurt overhauling the carb either to rule it out.

[Author]

Posts